Coopah

While CPR is beneficial for everywhere else there is EMTs and Paramedics to back it up, it won't help much when your miles into the wilderness. Trust me on that one... A good start would be the MOFA course (mountaineers) or just basic first aid course would help. Call the local FD or Red Cross for class dates and locations. Or better yet do a web search for wilderness first aid classes...Im sure they have them down your way...

Nice job dude!

To Murray @ Valhalla Pure Nice work

A 50 ft free fall takes about 1.3 seconds. I'm guessing that each reel can take maybe 3 ft. of rope. Therefore, the belayer would have to have reeled 3-4 times to keep the climber from hitting the ledge by 10 ft. Have a hard time believing the belayer was able to reel 3-4 times in 1.3 seconds

Good info iain. If you need to talk to someone about it by all means do so. The general public just isn't prepared to witness such a tragedy. Hope you and your friend are doing ok

I am open to having someone prove to me that reeling in works. It just seems to me that you only have a split second to act and that if you don't lock off you risk losing your grip from the rope ripping through your hand????

I hear what your saying...I was implying that maybe the pro wasn't spaced properly to begin with or the belayer is lackadaisical in rope management. I know there are just times when shit happens...

i am amazed at the ignorance on this thread... I too am amazed that people actually think this works?

You live in a simple world Coopah. How many times have you been climbing outside of the gym? Yes the world is simple...people make it complicated You have a better explanation of why you would need to reel in the rope? I am all ears!

Gyms suck... I actually live in the real world and have seen tests done where a 1kn load was dropped and before the person belaying could lock a munter hitch, it was burning his gloved hand and couldn't hold it. Guess what - the load hit the ground I would have to actually see this "reeling in" done or try it myself with a dead load before believing it would ever work...my hunch it doesn't

I think trying to "reel" someone in is a dangerous habit. Falls happen so quick that you have just enough time to process what is happening and lock the belay and little else. Why risk having the rope rip through your hand? Also why reduce the amount of rope available to absorb energy??? The only reason I can think of is to prevent hitting ground or a ledge - but then either the belayer is introducing too much slack or the leader isn't placing pro properly. I wouldn't advocate trying to reel anyone in...just lock the rope!!!

You should definately do so to your partners

In my search for info on Tuolomne Meadows I stumbled upon this site. http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/loversleap.html Some route beta is free the others are downloadable for a modest fee.

If you are actually cooking the simmerlite would probably be the better of the 2.

Prusik cord should be 60% - 80% the diameter of the host rope for optimum performance. Therefore in the case of 8mm rope, 5mm (60%) or 6 mm (80%) cord works best. For 10mm-10,5mm rope use 6 - 8 mm cord. Good old reliable nylon cord works best for prusik cord material. Most of the Spectra or Kevlar blends are too stiff to grab much...

Going soon? if so then you will find out what the conditions are

Thanks for all the input. Since I am just a , I am not going leashless just yet so I decided to buy 1 android and 1 robo. I will try them out this weekend and see how it goes.

Don't forget little ol Mt Carne....

Thanks for your thoughts...it helps in my decision!

Don't be cheap, buy one with a leash already attached. What your off brand set? What would you know anyways since you like to scramble..

I know it comes down to what feels comfortable for me but I would like to get others opinions of what style of leash to get and why. The two styles I am looking at are the BD Robo and the android. Anybody out there have experience with either or both and willing to pass on pros and cons of each? Thanks Coopah

MMM

ncascademtns, myself & 4 others climbed Mt Daniel via the Lynch Glacier on Saturday. Since this was my first time leading a glacier climb I really wanted everything to go well. We departed the deception pass trailhead at 9 am. We left the trail ~ 1/4 mile north of Hyas lake and headed Westerly cross country on the valley floor. We were fortunate to have some beta from a friend to stay South of the creek that drains from the large basin on the west face of Daniel. By doing so we were able to keep our boots dry. Just prior to gaining elevation, we crossed this same creek to the north and followed it west along the North edge of the drainage. This led us up to the PCT which we turned North on for ~ 250' to a dry and rocky creekbed. We took a much needed break here. Once we got going again we initially began to hike up the dry bed but soon discovered there was a very faint and ocassionally flagged climbing trail in the trees which we gladly took as it kept us out of the sun. Some minor bush wacking got us up to flat area (and we regained the climbers trail) a very small water source were we took another break and filtered some needed water. From here we had a good view of the basin & waterfalls coming off the remenants of the Daniel glacier. We then climbed up to the Lynch draw and took a much needed 1+hr long break. Our initial plan was to camp here then make for the summit Sunday morning then descend the SE ridge past Peggy's Pond and exit via the Cathedral Rock trail. As a group we decided forgo camping and head for the summit Saturday afternoon. Since Pea Soup lk was up to the cliffs, we had to ascend the N ridge ~ 150' and descend down & traverse over to the glacier where we roped up. I was feeling the heat now and was feeling somewhat nauseous but yet was glad to be able to summit in 2 hrs after roping up. Summited at 7:30pm The descent was fine with a bivy at 9:20 pm about 800' above Peggy's Pond. Thanks to ncascademtns for spotting a good bivy site for all of us I think only one of us cooked dinner. I wasn't one of them since I was feeling sick. In hind site I should have forced myself to eat & drink as on Sunday I was the slow one on the descent. Live & learn !! All in all it was a good climb. We definatley took the more strenuous but adventuresome approach. We had the route and summit all to ourselves only wished I had a to top it off.

I use this one from MEC. http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=589113&PRODUCT<>prd_id=118583&bmUID=1058925785683 Weighs about a pound...

True True...but there are other routes my friend that you haven't done...