glassgowkiss

As far as I remember FA team did simul solo the entire route. Probably the biggest issue is avi danger, proximity to the coast and low elevation, making it harder logistically then technically. The same goes for "It ain't over motherfuckers" on neighboring Pyramid Peak, where logistical challenges (approach, low elevation, and avi danger) are your biggest obstacles, rather then the technical difficulties of climbing itself.

Looks so fat, someone should solo this thing.

insulated concrete/construction/garden gloves for hard ice/dt. insulated leather gloves from a hardware store for rapping. BD Verglas and now Punisher for anything up to WI6 on a moderately cold days (up to -15C). Hand warmers, better yet, toe warmers glued in, so it doesn't shift. Switch to belay mitts after each pitch, with toe warmers glued in. Mittens go under my armpit under my shell, and climbing gloves go the same place for belays, unless they get wet, and then I switch the pair. Fuck climbing at -30, no longer willing to suffer like that.

I think this route is completely condition dependent. The actual, steep climbing is maybe 20m, with so-so pro when I did it. For me the challenge was more mental, then physical.

Nice film. I would question some shot selection and some out of focus shots use due to extreme shallow DOF, which made it hard to watch here and there.

congrats on a nice sent.

Did you have a good look at East Face of Pyramid?

I don't know the scientific background of the group, but unless they have a geologist or a geophysicist, it will be another wank fest bullshit on film. Just the fact they will be showing Bachelor, Broken Top or Lassen- peak that do not have glaciers on them for decades (do not know if Bachelor and Broken Top ever had) shows the level of preparation and knowledge of the group. South Side of Mt. Hood is also rather poor choice. If you really want to show the glaciers getting smaller North Side of Shuksan, Price Glacier would be far better representation of the issue at hand. They are also mentioning Rainier. I hope they secured a permit for filming in a National Park. I do not agree with filming and permits, but poaching projects like that just gives Park Service more ammunition for more regulation and scrutiny.

Broken Top and Bachelor don't even have glaciers, and they did not have any glaciers on them as far as I can remember. Don't think Lassen has one since it's explosion a century ago. So you are making a film about disappearing glaciers on peak that don't even have glaciers! Way to go and objectively set up a perimeter for story telling. Hood South Side- wtf?

BTW, the body was retrieved

Lotus Flower Tower is the only reasonably easy route in the area. There are basically 3 or 4 routes, with LFT being accessible for the masses. It's friggin expensive to spend 2-3 weeks and probably 4-5K to climb one multi- pitch 5.10. I was told by a very well accomplished alpinist that if you dug all the moss and dirt out of crack systems, the area would be a mecca, like the Bugs. But you would have to spend years on excavation. So in short- it's expensive to get there, the weather can suck and there is for most folks only one route to do, so during a good weather window it can get extremely crowded (have heard 5 parties on route in one day).

To be fair, most of EU countries cover your medical expenses while traveling abroad, at least traveling to neighboring countries in Europe. There is a moral difference- most of civilized world treats healthcare and healthcare as a basic human right, while US treats it as an access privilege. US is still in savage stage as far as healthcare goes. BTW, DAV and OAV will cover any medical costs and medical transport, plus the costs of any rescue under 6000m ANYWHERE on the planet.

This is a deal with competitive sports, based upon one time performance: ANYONE can win with ANYONE on any given day. It's true and proven on so many occasions. And at some point you WILL GET DE-TRONED. That happened to Woods. His interview was a prime example of a sore loser speaking. There is a quote from Joseph Conrad that basically says: some people go through life feeling good about themselves- it's because they have never been challenged. Woods was finally challenged, and mentally he did not raised to the task. Maybe he should hire a coach? What other sport has no coaching, eh? Even Ondra has a coach now. Also he might have to choose between climbing on plastic and climbing outside on natural rock. But every time an athlete trying to explain his/her loss and blame the rules will simply look like a sore loser- end of story.

I just wanted to remind people here is not to get sidetracked, but help Josh with $$$ donation. Even if all the readers would donate $5, it would amount to a pretty good sum to put a dent into repayment.

BTW, for all of you biking type. If you need to go to ER in Whistler or Squamish for a bike injury, you will have to leave your bike for collateral, if your balance is not paid at the end. Just so you don't say you were not warned.

Well, then two thirds of the best alpine climbing on the continent are no longer an option. That can also mean any international flights going through Canada (like to Europe) are also no longer an option. For a PNW climber it equals a total hardship. Ask people charged with DUI. Also can mean some limits with employment, as some firms, and companies are located in both countries. I know people working for such institutions, and if they would have travel restrictions, they no longer would even qualify for such job. A lot of IT, media, or even engineering firms would fall under that category.

Insurance companies make money by denying claims. No is almost always their first response. Persistence, sometimes including suing them, is often needed to get the a just and equitable result. Insurance companies are untouchable, when it comes to coverage outside of the US. My friend Marcus tried that. It was rejected by court, as the incident (emergency appendectomy) was not on US territory, so US court has no jurisdiction. He would have to sue them in Canada, and it was simply cost prohibitive. You would have to have very deep pockets, as no attorney will take a case like this without a hefty retainer. The only way to start addressing the issue is to raise the public awareness and start changing insurance regulation. But legal action is a no starter.

What kind of shitty insurance/ healthcare system we have. It's looks like people traveling outside US, we are no longer treated equal, or as citizens of the country. An acquaintance of my had appendicitis while climbing in Squamish. He ended up having an emergency surgery, and his insurance company refused to pay any of the costs, because he was in canadian hospital. Wtf?

Yeah, probably not the best call. It sounds like he was knocked off the slope, above Pencil Traverse.

Thanks for posting. This could happen to anyone climbing in Canada.

Yeah, what a class act- NOT. Tossing your award at the end, like it meant nothing was really showing his character. Broadcasters said, they did not interview the winner, because he did not speak english. A guy who doesn't speak english understood the rules, but Daniel Woods did not- what a lame ass excuse. How about saying someone else just climb better?

So some unknown guy from Iran shows up and wins ABS. Show some frigging class Daniel Woods. Sorry, but you behaved like a tool, in front of everyone to see. Yes, no doubt you are strong, but you behaved like a total d-bag. And btw, why are commentators NOT interviewing a winner? Again- totally lame and uncalled for. Maybe you should have done some due diligence beforehand and find out about each and every competitor, so you are not caught with your pants down. Read and video link

Very simple explanation. For one, you actually have to know how to climb technical terrain to get up on stuff in the Alps. N Ridge of Stuart (have not done entire ridge) has a pitch and a half of actual climbing, and the rest of it can be done with running belays (if you are a competent 5.9 climber). Slessee has 3-4 pitches, even if you do direct. Even Becky-Chuinard is technically very moderate. Alaska and Alps are apples and oranges. Alaska is an adventure in a big range, Alps is very civilized by comparison. You sleep in bed, take showers and can hang out indoors if the weather is crap. Third- not all people from this area post on cc.com. Colin and Marc are staying in Patagonia sending, while we are talking what are the best routes.

I bet his body recovery will have to wait till the snow melts.

great news! Congratulations!