glassgowkiss

Because this is Bob and this is what he does. Same hashed over argument, different day. Bob why are you climbing such an easy route? For someone who is clearly such a gifted bad ass climber, who spends so much of his free time telling us how much we all suck you really shouldn't be wasting your time on such a trivial easy route. Can I have your autograph now? as u might notice grades should give u an idea how hard the route is. so thanks for wasting my time. when i go on something like ultimate nothing and the topo says several 5.9 pitches i would expect the route to put up a bit of fight. and don't give me this shitty argument that just because someone puts an effort to bolt some choss heap they have thwe same right to inflate the grade. . like i said- that route is out of control. and if i knew how hard this thing was in reality i would never bother going there last afternoon as at this point the training value of this thing was zilch

i was posting on the topic of easy grades at squamish, but ultimate everything is just out of control. i think fa party had to be completly stoned out of their friggn' minds to rate this thing like that. it's a 5.7 with a 5.9 or 10b finish. the route is nice, i don't dispute the fact. but for crying out loud stop this stupidity. if we use this system godzilla should be 11b, since it's much harder then any pitch on this route. that puts slow children into 12a category pathetic

might be it band, might not. that you have the symptoms in the area doesn't mean you have the cause there. someone should check for your hip mechanics. also collapse arch might cause such thing. ice massage the area, but i bet you'll need some work with your gluts (btw, glut max is where it originates), iliopsoas and deep hip rotators. also you strength relationship between quads and hamstrings as well you adductors might be off. ibo is going to just mask the symptoms and will do nothing for the recovery. if you don't correct the cause of the problem you'll slide back to the injury.

as usual this is deteriorating down to silly shit. i'd like to add that climbing hard has to do more with attitude, motivation and ability to accept failure. in order for a climber to progess one must get on things that will push you and push you hard. let's say your max is 10c. getting on a bunch of 10's will not make you climb 11's. imo you have to get on things above your ability and get spanked. hence sport climbing and bouldering will be a safe alternative to do so. if you think 10's are hard, then you'll make them hard- it's about attitude

i like index. keeps u honest. again and again. the point wasn't that squish ratings are rather on soft side. the point was that a 10c ckack/trad route is not harder then let's say 11 sport. if you get on tr on these things the rating drops. and it's not so much the case with bolted routes, where the lead vs tr is not as noticable. and i know that it is a general statement and you can find many different situations. ok back to work- i am finished bitching.

DFA nailed this thing. of course you'll be talking about the routes that stand out in your memory- which is routes that challange you the most. so if your limmit is 10+ or 11 or 12 or 13 or 14 you'll be talking about them. as the matter of fact the biggest spray-lord i have ever met are wanna-be-climbers-real-life-wankers, who totally lack the discipline to train. i do belive that if you are resonably fit and have proper body fat ratio (which in this country would be only like 30-40%) then with proper training regime could climb 12's (trad or sport) within a year or two. but the topic driffted. the question is- is 10 a moderate grade. yes it is and a lot of people don't want to see it this way. as the matter of fact late 80's and 90's past this area in the alpine too.

don't u fuckers ever work? dru, where in the hell did i say i tr'd 13 in squish? to be specific the routes i was reffering to were daily planet and sentry box, which i would have hard time calling 12a. as the matter of fact both these riggs on tr feel more like mid 11's. there are some routes that go the other way, like astronomy.in any case, the point of my rant was: a 5.11 is 5.11, 12 is 12 13 is 13 sport or trad. basically grades are based on how much effort is used to climb to the anchor without falling/ hanging on gear/ other puff trickery. the difference might be in the type of terrain these routes cover (hence sportos have hard time climbing a crack at first and vice versa tradster crimping nobbins at smith). placing pro is calculated into these climbs, so if they did get bolted they would most likely drop a few letter grades in their rating. the other reason i did write this is because i am getting fed up with horseturd at the crags, it's like a bad weed and spreading. fuckers all over the place and no place to hide from them. ps. hey dru- you are a nice guy and know A LOT about climbing in this area. but on the other hand you talk a lot of shit like you did these routes. i think there is a big differance between knowing them and doing them....that's all.

dane, learn to read and understand what u actually read. u are out of your element, so shut the fuck up. and yes i did lead a lot of them os, in fact many years ago, most likely while you were still dumping your steamy loads (as tripple coilers they were not)in your diapers. a few days back we were climbing on pet wall to finish off the day. team wank shows up, gets on pleasant pheasant and gets on a freequent flyer program. so after a while (with much hanging and bolt pulling) they managed to get to the anchor. then the spray starts. 11 sport blah blah blah i lead 10+ trad, but 10+ trad is harder then 11 sport blah blah, blah, have to stop and place gear, blah,blah, blah- catching my drift there sizzlechest? btw hubers were climbing on salathe a week after they arrived in yosemite and they didn't do any crack climbing before. it was their training for ogre.

the ammount of time to be a strong trad climber is like what? 1 week? look at hubers or tommy caldwell abd the list goes on and on. and that was my initial point that anybody who can hang on can do these things, since they are easier then sport counterparts. as far as ratings of newer routes my point again. just because it took you 10 tries to do a route x and it was 11a doesn't mean that the route that takes 15 tries is 11c. darkness is not really 13a. from all the 13's i did so far it was the softest one, hence the french rating 7c not 7c+. i have heard it from many climbers

so dru, if u don't know the background don't participate in the disussion. ltv comments have nothing to do with this one. part of the story about ltv is i received a couple of email saying something like "sons of bitches kicke our ass on our own turf". but on the other hand even though everybody in canmore is thinking that nobody had balls to say it out loud. but you are cofusing the topics here- not for the first time i guess. the point of my spew was that if you top-rope something like exasporator it's only like 5.9. and sentry box is purring like a kitten.rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

last couple of weekends i had a chance to top-rope a few classic trad pitches at squamish and index. guess what- if you don't have to stop and place gear these things are just a walk. so the grades of the routes include placing pro. my point is that people who say, for example a 12a trad is harder then 12a sport are full of shit. 12a is 12a, and 13a crack is not any harder then 13a sport. anybody, who wants to argue is a weak ass punter, who wants to excuse his/hers lack of power endurance and skill. btw, still think squish ratings are like a purring kitten- soft

sounds like a tendon pulley.

this is like 2 seasons old. where have u been? plus it has nothing to do with mini-moonflower, so move it to spray buddy.

pm me your ph #

need a partner for wed for squish or index.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/288489/page/1/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 i don't think there is any confusion. you are stating the obvious

wow! another study. but on another hand even the author is quoting someone saying, that decrease in ROM will lead to an injury. when i see kids from local school and athletes from western streching i'm always thinking might as well not stretch at all. imo muscle balances are far more important then stretching itself. on the other hand a decrease in ROM will lead to muscular inbalances and eventually to the injury. that's a part of my workshop tonight at VW in ballard .7:30. oh, yeah, i forgot, why don't they do a study on non-stretching? about 2 years ago nike's did a study on soccer players. it cost $20.000 (yes, 20 grand!) and the conclussion was - proper warm-up an cool off, muscle balancing excercises and stretching prevent 80% of the injuries. it was published in "Biomechanics" magazine. there was also a $120.000 study by Group Health (no wonder the insurance rates go up) on excess weight leading to spinal problems. my take is like this- if you can maintain a proper ROM and muscle balances, you don't have to do squat. on the other hand if you are even semi-seroius about excercising and you are not in the 1% genetically gifted category you'll need to do some work. and sooner you recognize it and start less problems you'll have to deal with later on in life. good luck and hope to see some of you tonight- r

hey, normally i don't try to promote shit. but i just received a pair of salskinz gloves. the manufacturer was claiming waterproof, blah, blah, blah. so anyway, i thought, wtf, i'll try them, since my roomate gave me a pair for my b-day. so anyway, i shoved them on my hands and put them under running water, my hands were complely dry ater 3 minutes. then i dipped my hands into a pot of ice ques mixed with water- same deal- fucking amazing. they are really dexterous too. they also have a bit heavier (they say warmer) type. anyway i don't say run and buy it, but i think this glove is the shit for leashless and mixed, since the palm has these rubber knobbies their web page is www.danalco.com

the mentioned nerve is ulnar nerve. with inflammation and limmited space this nerve will be pressed by the common thendon of forearm flexors, hence the pain. decreasing the inflammation in the area will bring quick pain relief. honeslty for inflammation ice, elevation and MLD (manual lymphatic drainage) will bring quicker results then any pills. stay away from cortisone injections. they can lead to severe tissue degradation and not only in the area of injection. somehow there is this belief, that we can fuck up and abuse our bodies and then pop a magic pill and keep doing what we are doing- wrong!. but what do i know? i am just a massage therapist.

i kind of disagree, that colchuck balanced rock is harder to approach then the pasanger. but that's just my opinion. as far as girth pillar- 11d or even 12a are not hard by modern standard. yes, it maybe harder to get to this climb, but e.face of fou was climbed at7a (11d)in the early 80's. so basically anything under 13a should not be even considered hard and should be taken out of the discussion. at this point most of the ascents under 7b+/7c (12c/d) are not mentioned by mags- and that's for the multi-pitch routes.

"Discussion: No new slab avalanches were observed in the last 24 hours, but we have seen some point release avalanches to size 2 on SW slopes. One was in the gully above Polar Circus Ice climb. The recent cooler temperatures have helped to improve snowpack stability, but the weak layers of facets lower in the snowpack still persist and are of concern. It remains possible for skiers to trigger these layers on lee features, at or above treeline. The avalanche hazard will depend on the degree of the overnight freeze and how long the surface crusts hold up the following day. Pay close attention to the effects of direct solar radiation and daytime heating to gauge any increase in avalanche hazard. Outlook: Partly cloudy skies are forecasted for tomorrow with a slight increase in forecasted daytime temperature relative to today. The avalanche hazard will remain the same for tomorrow with an expected increase in hazard with daytime heating. An early start is advised for any mode of travel. Climbing under slopes exposed to prolonged sun is not advised." two things for all you guys used to the coastal snowpack. rockies snopack is much, much more dangerous. a class 2 avi of wet snow maybe won't kill you if you are lucky, but it will fuck you up and fuck you up really good. second- just because climb looks fat from the road doesn't mean it's any good for climbing. usually, by this time of the year it's just sun-baked crud, protection sucks and it is not real fun to get on fucked up hook fest anyway. i don't know how weeping wall could be still good since it was quite crap second week of march?like i said, just because it's still there and people climb it doesn't mean all that much....

fred and fritz american???????!!!!!!!maybe you haven't noticed the birthplace- germany!!!!

translation. the surgeon will give you NSAIDs, so they can fuck up your liver and mask the symptoms. you'll start climbing and re-injure yourself, then they will give you cortisone shot and fuck it up forever and you'll never climb harder then 5.5. why not try ice, ice massage and some decent rehab program first? don't waste your time- go and see a pt or a chiropractor.

no such thing as elbow tendonitis. you have either medial or lateral epicondylitis. both forearm flexors are and extensors have "common tendon". forearm flexors are on medial epicondylitis (the bony part of the inside of your elbow). your flexor digitorum profundus is also atached to the interosseus membrane between your radius and ulna. now where does it hurt- on the inside or the outside of your elbow? if inside you have an inflammation of the common tendon of forearm flexors. if it is on outside of your elbow, most likely you have an injury to your brachioradialis. while in pronation brachioradialis is one of the primary elbow flexors. and if you are not a cheapskate you'll pay your $5 to vertical world and attent my workshop on monday at 7:30 pm. there you can have it looked at, i can also tell you what your options are as far as treatment and what to do to avoid it in the future.

bill, sorry to put a damper on your plans. my point was there is a HUGEST FUCKING SLOPE above the climb, plus you have to cut across quite big snow slope between lower and upper parts. plus in 10 days the quality of ice can change dramatically. you can most likely still do the sourcerer, also wi5, but hardly gets any sun. wicked wanda in ghost should be still in. so is curtain call. pillsner should be also in.