glassgowkiss

today 01.14.2005 @ 1:15 pm Piotr Morawski and Simone Moreo summited on Shisha Pangma- FWA. wind was up to 125km/h. congrats! and no, frenchies do not get credit for FWA

i don't think it will be all that bad if it lasts only a couple of days. but if it lasts longer it will turn to shit again in no time. i just hope alpine routes start shaping up. cold snap after warm front! now that would be worth it.

as usual, next week weather forecast calls for warm conditions with rain. most likely last chance for low elevation ice is this weekend.

yea, but you need to get to it on boat? wanted some ideas for routes for the next couple of weeks. mr freeze was not wi6 for sure. just training for the rockies.

churning is good 12a if you have it wired. dreaming is easy and not that scary. the slab is 10a/b at most. and if you want to see real run out route go to elbsanstein or czech sandstone.

so what is the hardest route in this area anyway?

canada is not my country yet. soon though....

you should tell this guy to get off the drugs. like 12 hours of warm weather is going to melt the ice???!!! like i said- town full of wankers.

b-ham is lame. town full of wankers, only looking for excuses. 2" of snow fall down and the whole town shuts down. 3 days later people still drive with chains on doing 15 mph in a 55 zone- straight insanity. seattle is just an overgrown village with no real culture and driving there sucks. and most of the climbing in the n. cascades in wa is just low angle chossy/mossy hikes. move to canada son

looking at the weather i am vary glad we did bag this day. looks miserable

both places blow donkey dick. consider applying for canadian residency.

i don't think the conditions in the mountains are good for climbing at this point. there is a lot of deeeeeep snow, we are supposed to get another 6" today. go ice climbing around hope- you might wait for conditions like this another 7 years. go and do Mr Freeze or repeat Anthrax Ripple. The Plum is in. or go put up a new line.

i think ultimate one in the lifetime ice route would be N face of Robie Reid- the waterfalls to the right of Pacemaker. I wonder if someone would fly over and look at this face?

no the conditions didn't suck- i didn't go. i might be crazy, but i am not stupid. anyway- the weather is kind of all over the place. it was +9C this morning in Hope (and light rain) and -8C in Whistler at the same time. the temps are have dropped since.it's supposed to drop to -9C tonight in hope. it actually might make decent turf for climbing. we will see on sat.

Mr freeze is in. rap anchors are in place- top tree on the left and abalakov half way up. solid wi5. dry line on the left side of the pilar, extremly wet on the right. riddler was extremly wet, cryptonite is not in. the wi3 by the tunnel is in and at least 2 parties did it sun. water music and under big top have sections missing.

should be good for alpine. ice is usually jan/feb.

quebeck was very nice. also visited adirondacks (2 days on pitchoff). pont rouge is fantastic place, better later on in the season, when the river is frozen. st alban was fantastic place for dry-tooling. want to go back. didn't do anything long or burly, so there is no reason to write tr. the only comment i would make that pont rouge has such a sitty rock you can actually bash your picks into it! st alban has everything from M3 to M10 and it's all bolted!

so where is the guide book?ice is in, no book though.....

it's more like winter's salty breath.... wtf are the snow plows? and fucking drivers in b-ham, why in the hell did they buy theiir friggin suv's since they can't drive them anyway. a bunch of clownpunchers if you ask me

don't have the new guide yet- so what is the superheros and where. any info on blue moon on rye?

don't have hip waders. now on the other hand what about blue moon on rye? is it in?

so anybody can confirm tre's burly is in (before i drive all the way up there)

minx- stfu. you don't know what you are talking about. winter conditions on a route don't have anything to do with winter ascent. as far as Hymalayas goes - this has to do more with permits than calendar. as far as i remember they used to issue winter permits from Nov15- Mar1 (i might be wrong on this one). but it has to do more with spring season- they start on mar 1. as far as winter ascents go- they have very little to do with conditions. rules are rules dec 21- mar 21. so sorry, but no fwa.

or fly to chamonix and climb some real routes (instead of 50 classic dirt piles)

bill, bored at work?