chris

This sounds suspiciously like, "We would like to take our own sweet time to have an 18-hour summit day (because I'll make it if I can go at my own pace) and pay someone to set up our tents, cook our meals, make all climbing decisions about conditions and weather, and take the blame when we still don't make it."

Actually, even when the Dalai Lama advocated independence, he also spoke about changing the Tibetan government into a democratic constitutional theocracy, where the executive would remain the providence of the re-incarnated lamas, but the legislature would be ellected and the judicial would be appointed by the executive and the legislature. This isn't unlike the democratic constitutional monarchies of the world. His Holiness has changed his message too - he now advocates autonomy and self-governance for Tibet, allowing for a return of the exiled government, instead of a fully independent nation.

thanks!

I'm down in Bishop looking at old maps - can someone remind me what the declination is for, say, Cascade Pass?

OK crew, I was packing up for my migration north, and came across this insert from the American Alpine Club in last year's Journal. This is a direct quote, including bold and italicized fonts. Again, this is quoted from the American Alpine Club. Please don't hurt me if you disagree with this quote.

OK, second-fastest hijack I've ever seen...

fastest hijack I've ever seen...

I just heard a great analogy about ratings and grades this weekend. Ratings are like the full range of colors - its hard to precisely tell where red ends and blue begins...

Another vote for Lifewise (which is a division or some-such of Blue Cross/Blue Shield).

Scott- I'd strongly recommend taking the fan approach. I've witnessed numerous serac collapses from the upper Kautz scour the Turtle snowfield, from about centerline and right. Anyone taking the direct approach to the Turtle would be in the potential line of fire for hours.

I think a 32 degree bag would be more than enough. I spend June - September using a 40 degree bag and use a schoeller jacket, microfill sweater, or belay parka to add warmth. Right now I'm using the schoeller at 11,300 (Upper Boy Scout Lake). How cold does it get? Well, it can and probably will dip below freezing at night. Daytime highs right now are in the upper 70's and 80's, depending on the elevation.

I give a second vote for the Belay Jacket. I've used it in cold conditions in the Cascades, BC, Alaska, South America and China. If that's too cold for you, then take a step down and go with the EP Jacket. Both are synthetic filled and use epic fabric for wate repellency.

You can also check out Mount Rainier Alpine Guides, owned by Eric Simonson, and also based out of Ashford.

Nice G - I liked your definitions!

I so wish we had a yawning graemlin...

the f*&%ing ten essentials

Sorry slothrop - and thank you trogdor for the new avatar so my three brain cells aren't quite so confused. Its not all about height. If I get the Grivel shoulder straps comfortable, the waist belt is too high, and if I lower the straps, the bag hangs a couple of inches from my shoulders. I think I my back length and chest width just don't suit this pack, or vice versa. I'm now on my second Speed 28 - its awesome! I really like how if rides, even fully loaded. The first one lasted three years before I retired it this summer. One recommendation: don't haul this pack if you can help it. The occasional pitch is fine, but we've been using my old pack to haul a drill around - ouch! The new BD Speed also comes in a 32 or 33L size if you want a bit more space.

I bought a 70m Beal Joker this summer. Its awesome. Weighs as much as a 60m, passes the tests for all three standards, which means I can use it as a lightweight single on the easy stuff, a double on the loose stuff, and a twin on the hard stuff...

I agree with Trogdor about the Grivel Pack. Except I find the little waist belt zippers always in my way - the zipper pulls are these little cable swages, so they can be a pain in the hip. My biggest complain is the size of the straps - Trogdor is a little smaller than I, so perhaps this is truly a pack built for French and Italian men. I have only a few inches of strap left on the shoulders, without wearing extra layers. It just doesn't fit my back/chest well. I'm going to put it up for sale at the end of the season when I head back north. Meanwhile I'm ordering a BD Sphinx 42L, which fits me a lot better.

We have similar alpine grades in New Zealand - Blake can tell you all about them, since he's been there more recently than I.

Again, I don't think alpine grades apply to Blake's question. Blake, you're asking about the "traditional" grade system, right?

Olivine Corp won't give out keys for the north gate because of concerns of dumping and vehicle traffic during mining operations. The private timber land once owned by Crown Pacific is now owned by three companies: Hamilton Tree Farms, Sierra Pacific, and a third I don't know. The SP forester told me this past winter that the three companies had agreed to keep private vehicle access to a minimum in order to keep the companies from interfering with each other's operations. The old "geonerd" trick doesn't work anymore either. But if you look at a map, you shouldn't need to access Cinderella from the west side at all...

I think it depends on the access to the pitch. I'm working on a route down here that has 5 pitches bolted on lead. Then the sixth pitch was gained by climbing a trad pitch off-route, tension traversing back into the intended line, and placing the anchor. The protection bolts were placed on rappel after we TR'ed the pitch several times, marking where we wanted the bolts to be with chalk. We're hoping to be done with next week before I head north - tell you more about it then.

Not exactly, Pete. The distinction between a Grade VI and a Grade VII wall is not its length, but its access. That's why an El Cap size wall in Baffin is a VII. So I believe that commitment does get factored into traditional grades, but is only a factored in when distinguishing between V, VI, and VII. Any Alpine Grade, be it Alaskan, Kiwi, or French, give commitment a much higher value. Commitment may be defined as the time/distance from definitive aid or assistance. This could be a road, technical rescue arriving, etc. I always though that it went something like: I - less than 2 hours II - 2-4 hours III - 4-8 hours IV - 8-12 hours V - 12-18 hours, probably overnight VI - at least one night, probably more VII - multiple nights on route, definitive assistance greater than 24 hours away These grades only factor in 1) the speed of a competent, traditional party unless otherwise described, and 2) the route of ascent, not descent. And I agree - I like the Select Cascade practice of adding a grade to the hike. It helps me when I'm considering how much time I have to get out.

This is too cool - trip report in installments! Hats off to you Wayne!