Sol

I find orbit much more interesting than outer space.

you guys ever take a look at the itsy-bitsy broken pillar (about 18 inches across) that holds up the GINORMOUS flake compromising Sagitarrius, TPMV, and Japonese Gardens? it'll be a rough day for the LTW when that beast falls.

Actually, it has happened. Probably quite a bit. The Country at Index is somewhat notorious for it: Angora Grotto Cunning Stunt Climax Control All these have been lead with just gear, rather safely, and Angora Grotto is a straight-up hand crack. I think it was all Collum's work, so that he wouldn't have to carry a rack. Are there more? Probably. But some form of precedent was set, and even though Cunning Stunt has been chopped, rightfully so, a few times, the bolts keep coming back. Anyone know about this? Add Black Cat Bone up at the Blues Cliff to the list. Kinda detracts the quality for me as I was unable to put gear in where I wanted to and pushed it to funkier stances to clip the bolts.

That line is so fun!

Yeah darin, someone was climbing that block on The Golden Road when it launched. The block we saw spontaneously drop on the UTW was about the size of a volkswagon golf and was sitting on a flat ledge. It didn't topple over, more like slid out of the wall (gravity defying), then dropped 50 of so feet to the ground, broke into a bunch of pieces, that went catapulting down the hill for what seemed like forever. Then there's those blocks that came off Orc Tower last year, that block on Steel Monkey.... Really man, i'd say of all the places in WA state to have spontaneous and unexplained rockfall its Index. Luckily for all of us, Buckaroo is on the case and will use his 30 years of engineering experieince to get to the bottom of this blatant and premeditated case of unexplained rockfall. I'm going climbing. PDXers never-mind, just as ridiculous up here.

Classic internet rumor-milling going on here. Apparently none of you guys have been around for major spnontaneous index rockfall. But it happens, all by its own, and compared to what ive seen, that shit is small. Meanwhile on the UTW, the crux of P1 of The Golden Road fell off sometime last week. Apparently levered off by cams placed to aid through in wet conditions. Though the first ascencionest got a bit of shit for bolting the crack it used to form, it proabaly saved the climbers from serious injury or death. It should just be a reminder to us all that no matter how safe we try to make climbing, it puts us in places where objective dangers are high, and we could quite easily and horrificly get killed. I almost got killed by rockfall in the Picket range last summer, and almost killed my partner near the base of Dragons of Eden last year. Both totally freak accidents where we got incredibly lucky and against the odds somehow lived. So tell you friends how much you care about them, look your significant other in the eyes and tell him/her you love them before you head to the crag/mountains, shelter that belay, use a long tether at a stance if possible, for fucks sake wear a helmet, and climb on.

isn't there two anchors up there?

LAME

who said beacon sucks?

c'mon man, "a mini-epic ensued", ive froze my ass off overnight on that beast before, details?

the only reason i give it 10+ is because it seems easier than bat skins short, a nearby 11a, and pretty comparable to p3 of NAD a nearby 10+. but really, whatever. a true CLASSIC!

nice job marc!

wow

i'd be happy to give you doods a ride down the icicle next time you make it over. maybe even climb a pitch or two if time permits. shoot me a PM.

usually takes a day or two, but it can be sent a bit seepy.

In my opinion, neither of those ridge routes offer much sustained or aesthetic climbing. Maybe check out these two. But summiting D-tail is pretty cool, Backbone w/Fin for sure.

I was stoked to climb the delicate slab move this year after skiriting around it for years. 10+

There is no doubt that the weekend bouldering crowds exhibit proabaly the highest impact on the icicle (and maybe the mounties too). Cigarette butts, tick marks, bottle caps... I appreciate bwrts reminding folks to pack that shit out. Just scan your scene before you pack up everyone, take it all, even if you didn't bring it.

yep

Yeah, i don't know then. I really hate these types of discussions. I started climbing ten years ago, as a Michigan boy, my thoughts on a trad climb is without bolts, you know, using gear. Ground up is rad, but personally I save my ground up FA adventures for the mountains and use the crags for practice, training, etc. So in that case, alot of my sends are weak-sauce, non-trad, poser style, and that's fine with me, cuz im getting stronger each season, and preparing myself for another alpine rock season where I will be going ground up. Off to go climbing now (poser style).

I agree with bwrts, lets let Daz Muzak stand as the anomaly, the only sport climb on castle. Peter, yes, there is a good deal of rock to the left of Daz/Rainshadow that looks steep and blocky, but rather than bolt it, I imagine some traditional testpieces more in line with classics like No Such Thing As a Free Lunge, Shriek of the Mutilated, Dan's Dreadful Direct, etc. Plenty of bolts in both canyons, no reason to place more on castle.

It's getting climbed regularly. Thank you Mr. Granite!

screw this bull, i'm going climbing.

this sounds pretty much like an endorsement of chopping to me. "fair and balanced" on the part of the mod? not so much. I agree.