Dane

Regular route on Pineapple...mid week? 2/24 through 27 best for me. Direct on NY gully also an option. Obviously condition dependant for weather and additional snow fall. PM if you are interested.

Trip: Northwest Face of Mtn Snoqualmie- photo essay - direct variation, Pineapple Express, 2nd ascent of "Blue Moon" Date: 2/19/2009 Trip Report: The view from high on Phantom Slide going in. The scene of the crime. Pineapple Express in orange., Craig's photo. Wayne and Craig's 2 pitch, direct variation, Blue Moon marked on the full line of PE The Blue Moon variation should be obvious in both pictures. And more direct than either line topo suggests. The ice hose and chimney pitches are just left of the smaller rock head walls and just right of the orange topo @ mid height. The obvious ice hose dissappears into the chimney in Cauthorn's picture. From that '05 picture I have to assume the line is generally there and "in". First pitch snice For the most part the entire route was solid sticks in snice with a good water ice base. The money pitches on Blue Moon are #2 the ice hose and #3 the amazing Scottish chimney. This comment from Craig aka Alpinemonkey on Blue Moon's first ascent": "I didn't lead our second pitch that may have been the crux, but it had about 3 moves off the deck that were a little thin and hard. After that it seemed sort of like moderate thin ice/dirt climbing, a little run out, but not unreasonable." Pretty sustained pitch, thin ice on the bottom, with a hand crack in the corner mid pitch that will get the attention of most. Big Cams in hidden placements made the run outs resonable. Much steeper than it first appears. But, hey, the landing looks good The 3rd pitch starts from a physically tight belay (fixed stopper) inside a deep, 3' wide chimney. The leader will be dropping EVERYTHING that comes off down on you. On our ascent I could not turn side ways because of our (small) pack, couldn't see and was swimming in snow. I had the wind knocked out of me by a big piece of ice I unknowingly took full in the chest. It is a short crux right off, on a 60m pitch but awesome position, spectacular visuals and hard climbing. This was the crux of the climb for us @ M5/6 with perfect dry tooling to get to the chockstone, and then ice, to get on to the chock stone, (FP just below it). Thankfully ice at your back and over the top in there, it was weird and way fun. Awesome pro. You exit the chimney onto steep tree climbing and end on a fairly flat bench with fair size trees for a belay. Bit cold and miserable at times. Pretty much simul climbing to NY gully from there for us. Last pitch of NY Gully has a bit of a sting in snow and big gloves. Entrance to NY gully. Camera failed here from the cold, so no pics of Jens, again leading in fine style and me floundering about with the pack. But it looked a lot like this pic of Marko's from a few days earlier. These two pics are of the last bit after the crux of NY gully. Jens Klubberud and I did the climb in 7hr 15min from rope up at the base of the gully to the exit on the ridge, Feb. 18. 4 to 6" of new snow on the ground in the Phantom slide and it snowed most of the day on us, enough to get small spindrift avis on the first 3 pitches. A proud line and fine climb! Excellent position and a few stellar sections. In places you start to get a real, big north wall, feel. I'll admit it was no dissappointment when the climbing eased after the first 600 feet. Blue Moon a 2 pitch direct variation of Pineapple Express IV WI4 R M6 5.8 Blue Moon variation of PE Pitch 1 - 60 meters WI 3 Pitch 2 - 60 meters thin and delicate WI4 new Pitch 3 - 60 meters, ungraceful chimney but short M5/6-new Next - bunch of simul climbing Pitch 4 - step off into NY Gully and climb to corner crack Pitch 5 - Corner crux of NY gully 5.8 M4 Final- easy but exposed traverse to the ridge The original ascent account of Pineapple Express. "On February 9, 2005, Roger Strong and I climbed a new route up the longest portion of the Northwest Face of Mount Snoqualmie. We approached from the Alpental parking lot, ascended the Phantom Slide to the northwestern shoulder of Snoqualmie, dropped into the Thunder Creek drainage, and then traversed beneath the New York Gully area to the lowest toe of the rock buttress. The first pitch started just left of the lowest point of rock and climbed a thin slab of ice hidden in a long right-facing corner (WI3+ R). After this pitch we trended up and left, pulling steep heather into a mixed gully leading to a tree belay beneath a rock headwall. The superb third pitch climbed the steep right-facing corner to a tree belay (M6 with good gear). Pitch 4 led up and right into snow and trees. The next pitch squeezed through the trees and traversed right to a 5.8 rock step that led up to a tree belay. We then continued up easy mixed ground to a flat ledge beneath the huge headwall that guards the top to the Northwest Face. We then traversed easily along a spectacular ledge system rightward to join the last two pitches of New York Gully. In total, we did nine long 60-meter pitches. For gear, include a couple of thin pitons along with cams to 3” and many slings in the rack. IV M6 5.8 WI3+." Gear Notes: Even with all the snice available this year, we placed only one shortie screw on lead. We did however use 2.5 to 3.5 cams in a number of crucial places. There are several fixed pins and now a wired stopper on route. Lots of useful places for a selection of blades or thin lost arrows. Which I suggest we start leaving intentionally as fixed pieces. Approach Notes: Park in the Groomer lot facing north. Directly in front of you is Phantom Slide. Head directly up hill entering the trees early on the left (mid height of the first approach slope) and bypassing the water falls and small cliff band which on on your right. Follow the boot pack up the left edge of Phanton slide until you hit a slight steepening on Phanton Slide near the top of Mt Snoqualmie and close to the first obvious big rock spur of the NW face of Snoqualimie. Look closely on your left for some bigger old growth trees, cut left here into a clearing and bench. (300 or 400 yards ) Head straight up again at the left edge of the bench. (200 yards) Hit the ridge at the decent gully. Decent gully is just under the western N face spur of Snoqualmie. Way easier (up and down) than it sounds or looks!

Jens and I did it today...incredible line lads! Nicely done Lots of new snow so it was slow and we weren't smoking it. Snowed hard most of the day 7hrs 19 min on the climb 13:20 C2C. I added Jens and my consensus for grades on each pitch in Craig's post. Photos of every pitch when I get time. But I agree with Craig on his descriptions..."hard"...but not that hard.

This from Roger Strong, who was kind enough to read this thread and comment on the first ascent. As I mentioned before any thinner you'd have a M grade tagged on. Although I too am surprised at just how fat the crux corner was on the 1st ascent compared to this week and the conditions we found lower down. Turns out in previous years folks have been up to the corner and rapped off. Although the fixed gear there is total crap.

You guys are killing me Buddies in for the weekend and I tell them the approach to Snoqualmie is terrible! You dudes running in and out all weekend while we wade hip deep a mile away for a couple of lousy pitches Nice work and looking forward to the TRs. Anyone want to run in there this week?

May I make a suggestion? As the WA Ice guide book author it would be nice to have either an updated web page or post more succinct information when asked (pics, grade and route description) on routes not in the current edition. Your answer to my original post for info puzzled me, Alex. Anyone who has done this route would have recognized it even by the minimal description and route pics I posted. Please note this is a TR for "Water Ice". I didn't name anything here as I am not so vain or naive enough to think these lines haven't been done. Just have yet to read a credible route description. I would also doubt this route would ever be 5 pitches even with a 120' rope and you could climb the longer one (call it "Blue Moon" if you like) with a 120' rope if pressed. I'd have to think anyone capable of climbing the top 3 pitches would put a rope on for the approach. (since it gets skied) The "sounds like" answer isn't very convincing. Until I see pictures of someone climbing the crux corner, sorry I'm not convinced. As there are two sets of rap tat below the crux...and neither of them where it would be if you were/had actually climbed it as a ice climb or even hard mixed. That seemed to be the consensus of the five of us who were there this weekend anyway. I took a close look at the climb 10 days ago and it would have been very solid mixed in the corner then (as it would be in a thin/dry year) and has just enough ice on it now to be fun. On a thin year? It is going to have a M Grade and rock pro as well. As this particular climb is undoubtedly one of the best water ice climbs in Washington (both in length and difficulty) I am surprised there are no previous write ups or pictures. As a early season mixed climb it would be wild and even better! I suspect it would have been trivial for Roger and Chad even ten years ago. Love to see that picture you mention for comparison? I've sent Roger an email asking to verify what they actually did do. The second route we did in one pitch had obviously been done before. Another correction for your web page...NE Coulior on Dragontail? It has two finishes. Left and right on the uper head wall. Left is longer and harder. Of the ascents posted here Nov/Dec '08 only two parties did the harder left side. By pictures from just two days later the left side was obviously gone. It had melted out and dissappeared with water running lower down for the following parties. And it was the easier right side that was soloed. Again it is the photos and written descriptions that point out the differences.

Guess you failed to read the post above Lots of ice to get stoked about in the Apental area...even today, which was the warmest in a week.

Huge help, thanks...I owe you a beer for that one!

Trip: Source Lake- Alpental - Water Ice Date: 2/15/2009 Trip Report: Had the chance to do a couple of high quality water ice climbs back of Source lake over the weekend. Climbed there Friday through Monday and no one there but skiers, snow shoers and us in those four full days. Some of this stuff forms once in a "Blue Moon". Amazing...as it was just like climbing in the Candian Rockies during late sping but 30 minutes from home at Alpental! Both climbs are obvious on the cliff directly above Source Lake. Once in a blue moon.... This one is 3 pitches, 130' WI4, 110' WI5 and 130' WI4. The line is easily one of the best water ice climbs in Washington. Climber high on the 1st pitch. No camera tilt here on P2, it really is that over hanging, which is unusual anywhere on ice. Down from mid pitch 2. P3 The one pitch wonder.... By passing the funky anchor set right at the base of the crux, we did as a fun enduro pitch @ WI4 60m Again looking down mid pitch. Gear Notes: This season things are obviously in but a bit thin. Bring more than a few shorty screws and new rap tat for the trees if you don't make it during '09. DON'T trust the ratty fixed gear on any of the belays!!!! Use your own V threads or the obvious trees. Dbl 60m ropes will get you off both climbs. Edit..because I can barely coil a 60m rope. I'd have a hard time just lifting a 160m rope. Approach Notes: If you are in a hurry with decent conditions 30/45 min to the base of the gully. Depending on the trail breaking another hour up the far left gully to the base of the climbs. Avi danger on the last bit could be high to EXTREMELY high, so check it out beforehand. There is a a HUGE snow field above this cliff that releases some impressive stuff on occasion. Just the spind drift on a cold snowy day will get your attention.

We did a couple of climbs back of Source lake over the weekend. Climbed there Friday through Monday and no one there but skiers, snow shoers and us in those four full days. Some of this stuff forms once in a "Blue Moon". Amazing...as it was just like climbing in Canada during the sping the last few days but at Alpental! Weird.......with all the decent ice around. Most people were heading for the Alpine stuff in the area. This one is 3 pitches, 130' WI4, 110' WI5 and 130' WI4. The line is easily one of the best water ice climbs in Washington. 1st pitch. No camera tilt here on P2, it really is that over hanging, which is unusual anywhere on ice. Down from mid pitch 2. P3 By passing the funky anchor set up right at the base of the crux, this one we did as a fun enduro pitch @ WI4 160m Again looking down mid pitch.

Anyone here been on this route? I have the original accounts of the Colton-Leach ascent but was looking for something more current. thanks!

Wayne, got me on that one If it is the same climb Roger Strong and Chad Kellog first climbed in 2003?

Flow Reversal? How hard and how long?

Anyone know what this thin "gully" climb is? Center section of picture with ice above climbers on the right? Three pitches, fairly sustained today on some funky ice. Second pitch (the way we did it) is in a narrow chimney. Wider smear on the right and a good flow on the far left in picture. Bryan buttress is out of the picture on the left. You climb a steep gully to get to the base. Starting up the first pitch and the obvious chimney up higher. Thanks!

Craig, pm on the way. Sorry to be so obtuse. Can anyone tell me just what gully Phantom slide is? Is it the gully right behind the upper lift/upper parking at Alpental with the bit of ice on the bottom right side?

FWIW the Nepal is not a boot to easily compare to the Trango line. Nepal is much, much more boot with just a little more weight. Everything you have said is true, only disagreement is the the stiffness in the soles. (at least for a 45 they are the same) No matter what the boot is, short of plastic, the bigger/longer the boot the more flex in the sole. Starts making a difference in 11s and up I think. How stiff a boot is in the ankle is a totally different story from stiffness in the sole. No question the Nepal wins "stiff ankle" hands down. They are a pretty stiff boot (ankle and sole) by almost any standard. You are comparing a leather upper in the Nepal to a fabric upper on the Trango series. Just wanted to make sure we are talking the same thing. Also when you talk "Trango Extreme"...there have been 5 different versions of the "extreme" Trango not including the Extreme Ice series. The early ones were all leather, the later ones, all fabric, including 3 versions in yellow. To date the Silver Extreme Evo Gortex LWT is the stiffest ankle and still all fabric so not that stiff when comparing to a leather boot like the Nepals. The newest yellow Trango, Prime, is much softer than even the other fabic boots in the ankle with a rigid sole. ( same mid sole for 3 or 4 generations ) I'll add the Nepal Evo weight in a 45 when I get time. But I left it out of the discussion because it really isn't a super LWT mtn boot like the Trango series. Nepal Evo is a great boot and I love mine but it is more along the lines and durability of a traditional leather boot. FWIW the Batura is a all fabric boot, with a rigid sole, and again, with a very soft ankle. No where near the precise fit of the Nepal Top although adding a Nepal Evo inner tongue helps a bit for fit.

Anyone got a picture or a better description of the gully to best approach the north side of Mount Snoqualmie ? Sounds like it is Phantom Slide? I was up there today and looks like snow shoes are going to be needed unless you guys left a good track going in.

Guess i don't get it. Why would you sell the Vipers? Ten times the tool compared to a CF BP in any version. Even mated to the single CF BP it would make a nice set of tools. FWIW Twight used a similar set up out of choice on the Solvak Route, Denali, CFBP and the then new CF Cobra. That and the fact that when a shaft fails it can make finishing what you started more difficult

BD aint your typical toy store. If they are saying send the sticks in because you might die...believe them. Let them know your situation and ask if they have a "good guy" deal on some older tools for you at a price you can afford. Better to have faulty gear off the market than have someone still climbing on it. I suspect they'll go out of their way to help you out.

Had the chance to wring out a few boots in the last couple of weeks. Here is some hard data Weights of one size 45 boot on a US postal scale? Boots listed in both weight and warmth. Warmer boots as you go down the list. Everything listed is a rigid sole technical boot. Trango Prime 45 2# 2.7oz Extreme EVO Gortex 45 2# 4 oz Batura 45 2# 8.5oz Spantik 46 2# 14.6oz w/ Intution liner Prime (and Evo Ice) has a softer cuff (read extremely flexable and thin) and is no higher than the Extreme Evo. Extreme Evo is ever so slightly larger internally than the Prime. ( I tried several of each in a 45) Both Trangos (and the Ice Evo) use the same mid sole so have the same stiffness / amount of sole flex. Nepal and Batura are slightly stiffer in the midsole but not a lot or enough to make it noticable in my size 12s/45 for ice climbing and welcomed for hard rock climbing and approaches. The Extreme Evo is second only to the Batura for upper insulation (more than the Prime or Ice Evo) and has a Gortex liner which no other Trango Extreme boot has and whcih they all need it IMO. Prime has some type of "water resistant" liner but no one including Sportiva USA could tell me exactly what or how it works. Goretex we all know. Prime has the bigger last as does the Extreme Evo but just not the amount of additional insulation as the Evo so it isn't the best for for my skinny long feet. Metal hooks on the older boots (last season's) work much better than the ring "snaps" on the newest boots which are made of a majority of plastic. The rings are lower profile however. Hooks got pretty beat up in talus but still worked fine. Newest Prime and Evos are 1/2 size bigger in the sole (45 compared to 45) and will need to have crampons refit. And a bit bigger inside as well. My old Evo Ice, Batura and Nepal Evo all take the same size crampon with a 45 size boot. The newest Extreme Evo and Prime in 45 are both 1/2 size bigger in the sole and needed the crampons refit. Extreme Evo still has a thin, sticky rubber sole which really noticable on rock. In the LWT boots at Sportiva it is the best buy/performance IMO. One of the best LWT weight technical boots Sportiva offers is the Ice Evo, if you dump the funky lace system and have your local cobler add some eyelets. Weighs a bit less than the Prime, has Thinsulate insulation, sticky rubber and the smallest internal profile of anything listed here. So small in fact I had to go up a half size over my normal 45. If you can get a good fit they climb everything extremely well and are easy on your feet for hiking in and out on any terrain. On sale they are a frugal buy hard to pass up. I think the Batura offers the most promise but needs a Gortex liner or better yet a thin water proof innner boot that you could pull and easily dry out every night. The Batura also needs a more substanial cuff and a more user friendly lacing system. Finally, if you plan on climbing in cold weather with a lwt weight bivy in your future? I tried all four of these boots in some pretty cold weather. The only boot that my feet didn't fall asleep in on a alpine bivy was the Spantik and only then if I loosened the lace system of the outer boot. What that means is if you spend an unplanned night out, the Spantik might well keep you from getting any cold injuries to your feet. No surprise as the Spantik was designed just for such antics. Batura just wasn't up to the task insulation wise once the laces were loosened. The Intuition liner also added a vbl to the boot so it was even warmer and easier to dry. Good set up.

For those looking for an APO address to send stuff to? Jason posts here as "sandman" and works in one of our hospitals in Iraq and can put to good use what we send. DVDs, videos are welcome as I'd bet paperback books are as well. Maj. Jason Sweeney 332d EMDG/OR-Anesthesia APO AE 09315-9997 And another for Thomas (posts as tslease_19) and his buddies. SGT Slease, Thomas B Co 2-8 IN FOB Echo, Iraq APO AE 09332 Anyone else out there that needs some reading material? If so, post your APO and we'll get soemthing on the way for you! Hey guys HOW ABOUT MAKING this a STICKY for the duration

BD Sabertooth $50. Spares that I don't think have ever been sharpened. I'll look if your interested.

FYI two flat rate priority boxes free from the post office that work well for magazines. One is 8.5 x 11 and perfect for magazines called the "regular" size. Will hold 24 or so magazines depending on thickness. Costs $10 to ship to an APO. The bigger called the large, 12x12, takes paper back books, set on end, or odd size stuff with magazines. But you get a $2.00 discount for APO shipments so it costs $11.00.

-sold- Thanks BD!

Hi Bob, Not in the Columbia basin but a guy is giving quick turn around and great results in Canmore. More info on Gadd's site under "gear". best