Dane

I had both and returned the Prime. One of the reasons was I liked the sticky sole which the Prime does not have. And it fit differently, wider than the Trangos. Wider than my Nepals. Also the Prime is harder to get in and out of by most everyone's accounts. I have a pair of the Ice that were converted to laces eyelets and they have the same problem. Easy to rip the gaiter out of the boot when getting them on in the morning. Not worth the hassle imo. Wish it were a different answer. Some type of liner in the Prime but No Goretex...which THE reason most have decided against it imo. If you have used any of the other Trango Series.....it is obvious they would be a much better boot if they were water proof. Goretex seems to be the best of the liners for waterproofness, warmth and durability. But yes, 20 hrs of hard use should be easy enough to get from any Sportiva I've had no complains. Any run down 4000' of Canadian scree is going to show up on a fabic boot I suspect.

The older Trango series have a super sticky and not very durable rubber sole. I like how sticky it it however and think it worth the trade. No fabirc boot is very durable...may be Sportiva even less so. The Prime has the same outer sole at the Batura which is less sticky and more durable than the Trango Ex Evo. Comfortable....?? I have yet to find any of the fabric boots "comfortable" in comparison to the Nepal Evo..which is mostly a leather boot.

Turns out this is more appropriate topic than I would like it to have been. One of our buddies severely froze some digits this week. After a trip to the ER and the Doc he is now bed ridden. Will be for at least several weeks and no climbing again for months. Not his but the injury is similar.. If anyone has any experience or info to add please do.

For a graphic view of immersion foot take a look under "immersion foot" in goggle images. "Immersion foot occurs when feet are cold and damp while wearing constricting footwear. Unlike frostbite, immersion foot does not require freezing temperatures and can occur in temperatures up to 60° Fahrenheit (about 16° Celsius). The condition can occur with as little as twelve hours' exposure." FWIW I suspect mild immersion foot injuries (the ones with no visual injury) are very common in the winter climbing community but unreported and generally unrecognised for what they really are. What is missed is immersion foot can easily lead to very serious reinjury and less resistance to cold injuries in general.

I am doing an article (to eventually be posted here) on cold injuries and frost bite. More specifically how hydration, fitness and footwear play a part in the equation. If you have had any type of cold injury, immersion foot, or frost bite I'd like to hear about it and be able to quote your circumstances as a reference. What you were wearing for boots and clothing, the kind of climb and temps when it happened and your level of physical well being all would be helpful. The idea is to help others avoid a similar circumstance. TIA If possible could you post your info here? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/924966/Cold_injuries_frost_bite#Post924966

I am doing an article (to eventually be posted here) on cold injuries and frost bite. More specifically how hydration, fitness and footwear play a part in the equation. If you have had any type of cold injury, immersion foot, or frost bite I'd like to hear about it and be able to quote your circumstances as a reference. What you were wearing for boots and clothing, the kind of climb and temps when it happened and your level of physical well being all would be helpful. The idea is to help others avoid a similar circumstance. TIA

Spoiler here: Jens and Cole scratched their way up the Gerber/Sink yesterday. Hopefully they'll post some pictures and a TR. What stuck in our minds was Jens. "never swung a tool all day." Emphasis...no ice and all day! Nice work guys! 10 degrees F last night ( or a bit less) and for us International folk that is like -12 C...and pretty damn cold for 8.5 hrs of sunshine that didn't happen today. No inversion..cold up high, and cold in the valley...just a bit less cold. Nice moon though! Gravel for the first 2 miles or so of the road, maybe a bit less. Lots of snow from there. No rain event up high obviously. Just lots of powder snow on rock. Character building stuff...which I try to avoid Anyone been into Snoqualimie yet? Hopefully they did get some ice build up during the rain events in Nov.

WTD...? want to demo want to deal want to ? or was that WTS? if so a price?

Looking for an experienced partner for one day or multi day trips locally mid week. Mixed and ice in Enchantments, or the climbs on or around Snoqualimie come to mind. Direct line of NY Gully and the original Pineapple Express lines are on my immediate to do list as are several easier routes on Dragontail. I could be climbing tomorrow morning....hell I should be climbing now

Very nice Illumination Rock? Sportiva ad...from "Blue Moon" Snoqualmie

What a line, eh? Courtesy of: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0008/2132/files/MG_8991.jpg?1258837109

Blue light special top of Phantom slide this week.....you want some. I need a good track going in

Couple of observations...three retailers pop up on google for the Rebel. Only one sells replacement picks. Take a look at UKclimbing and see kind of responses (or lack of) there are on the Rebel. Rebel is made in the UK. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=301 Cheap Cobra tools? Big difference and no comparison how they climb between a current production Cobra and the old c/f Cobra...imo $150 is no deal on the older version. Most any current production tool can be had on the Internet for around $200 these days. http://www.ems.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=3739641

Saw the newest "light" version DAS parka over the weekend at the local Patagonia store. Not the old DAS! More than a few designers have realised a lwt jacket is a better option for most. From Parkin's web site. http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/ "Hi Andy, I was reading an old article in High where you suggested an optimum outfit for alpine winter was shelled microfleece (e.g. vapour-rise), shelled pile (e.g. buffalo) and a duvet on top (DAS or similar). At the time, the likes of the DAS Parka, Montane Bivvy, Lowe Alpine Heatseeker, etc. all had had 250-300g of their own-brand insulation. The latest version of the DAS though has 170g Primaloft insulation. (Similiar to a Haglofs Barrier Zone Hoody jacket I have with 170g insulation). Ignoring the hype, is Primaloft that good that it is just as warm with half the insulation? Or do we all not feel the cold as much?! 170g doesn’t seem to be very thick to be suitable as your stand-alone piece of insulation. So thought I’d ask how you find the latest jackets, with your experience. Cheers It’s true that the original synthetic belay jackets - like the Patagonia DAS parka - had a much heavier weight of insulation, and most modern designs feature a lighter weight, but I think in all but the most extreme of conditions this weight may be more appropriate, offering a better balance between weight, bulk and warmth. Worn over a standard layering system - especially the softshell system I described - these lighter parkers will still do their job of keeping you warm when static in normal climbing scenarios (belaying, abseling, biving). The heavier weight parkers worked better in more extreme situations, such as super cold (Alaskan winter or high altitude mountaineering), or for super extended belaying. I’ve used the old school DAS parker in the Ruth Gorge in Winter (temps reaching -50), and super long belays in frigid spots, while people like Steve House used his all the way to the top of Nanga Parbat. So what if you want a system that will do both duties, but will still offer the same degree of warmths and protection? If you have a specific need (big walling in Baffin for example), I’d recommend getting a bespoke belay jacket from someone like PHD, who could take their existing Zeta jacket and double up the insulation. A more flexible option would be to have a layered approach to your booster layer, perhaps layering up a hooded midweight synthetic hooded jacket with a micro loft down jacket (or gilet), perhaps even modifying both so they can be linked (velcro, poppers or toggles). With this you’d wear your basic outer belay jacket for rough and dirty action (wet snow, belaying etc), and save the down layer (stowed in a small drybag) for bivying, super long belays or extreme cold action."

Buy new gloves...sewing them up and seam sealer aint going to make them "good enough" is my guess. Gloves are cheap (grand scheme of ice gear) and as you are learning I suspect... you'll want at least two pair of the same model if you fins one you like. I like having 3 pair of the same glove yo go through on a trip or just on one climb. MX Hoody?....wash it and then only wash it ONCE a season. I've put a can of Scotch Guard into mine end of the season and that seems to make it through till the end of next season. Just make sure you do it outside! Dru's comment "wash it with ReviveX", might well be a better solution. Also be worth calling Alteryx up on monday and asking them what they suggest. For a $400 jacket you would think they'd have a quick solution

Aconcagua is a whole other world than Denali. If you were heading to Alaska instead of to Argentina I'd wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Intuition liners. In decent late spring conditions the Intuitions with no over boots will often be enough to summit in. But just barely..for me. They absorb very little moisure and easily dry out in your bag within a few hours. They are wonderful to put on in the morning! I found life on Aconcagua easier at 20K feet than it is on Denali at 11K feet. Denali you are on snow when you step off the plane till you get back on one. Aconcagua, 3 or 4 days at most on snow should do it and the rest all on gravel trails. In those conditons (gravel trails) Intuition liners would be really hard on my feet. I've always used some type of trail shoe or trail runner to at least 17.5K (Condor) on the reg route on Aconcagua. Been to Berlin camp several times carrying loads in just runners and heavy wool soxs (18.900'). You'll really appreciate using a light shoe on the walk in and up to around 16K' on the Polish route where you'll generally hit snow. YMMV with conditions

Great story David!

If your fit is marginal in the Koflach then a well fitted Intuition can be a fun thing. But they are not required on Aconcagua by any means. And with as much walking as is requirded I's stick to the orginal liners if they fit well.

Almost....official start to ice season? John Frieh logging flight time in 'pons. Two and counting Great TRs with everyone climbing in Hylite so early. Thanks!

No, it is not worth the extra $100 if you are on a tight budget. Viper is an exceptional tool at a great price point. Cobra is an exceptional tool if price is not an issue. How good is the Viper? A buddy of mine lead or soloed every pitch of Polar Circus last winter with Vipers. While not a climb I really consider "alpine" (more a long crag climb) it should give you an idea of just how good they are on water ice. Pick angle on the Viper is just a tiny bit less than the Cobra...a design feature that was intentional making it slightly more user friendly on less than vertical terrain. While stronger and more rigid the carbon fiber shaft won't take the day in day out abuse the hydroformed alumminum will. If you want another take on the the Viper/Cobra in the alpine look to Will's comments here. His previous tools were Vipers I believe. Also doesn't take much looking around to see just how many guys have done some really hard mixed stuff with the Viper. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2094 http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

It is closer and better conditions for anyone in Spokane to just head north of the border. Banff/Canmore have a couple of very good ice climbing sites used generally for top roping. Good ice and lots of options for difficulty. Local to you when it freezes up...in the next few weeks... there is Indian Canyon in Spokane, Chilco just north of Cd'A, The Wizard, out of Sandpoint, Copper Creak Falls right at the Border Idaho/BC crossing and Gilbrater Wall at Canal Flats. All closer and most (everything but Indian Canyon) better ice climbing when they are up that the Baker Seracs.

Make that 5 packages out

I know a bunch of guys past 50 all pulling .11s or harder....trad not sport. When it comes to ice all of us are climbing harder on ice and mixed now than we ever did.....simply because the newest gear makes it easier. A lot easier. You may well suck. In the grand scheme of things...don't agree we all do That said everyone should climb more and harder...as often as possible!

Came over the pass yesterday. Water running everywhere off the mountains. If this is any indication up high looks like all we need is a hard freeze

Number of guys have donated. Still sorting through a good size pile of donated gear and trying to match it to the right requests. Good on ya, guys. Cool part is we've already been able to ship 4 PIF packages And more to go out asap. How fun is that!