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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. This is classic... “Do you know that you have a bald spot.” What! I was losing my hair! … at 23! I instinctively felt my crown, but she said “No, not there, ” and she guided my hand just above, and right, of the nape of my neck “here.” I felt skin as smooth, and bald, as a baby’s bottom. She held up a mirror, hairless pink scalp the size of two silver dollars. “Oh god. Am I going bald?” “No, not necessarily. It happens to men sometimes. Have you been really scared lately?” More here: http://gripped.com/2010/12/issues/barrys-rockies-top-10-fat-ice-moderates/
  2. Is cash a good enough reason
  3. You bastard I must have something you need? Precious...me precious...must have more Helix.
  4. Team is ready now... But thankfully it is too warm for the moment
  5. Unworn, except around the house, no tags. $100 and actual shipping via US mail. Black Large, newest Primaloft One version. If you know the pant you likely know their use.
  6. Every one is a "learning ice climber". You are out there doing it. And doing more than most I noted. Past that it doesn't matter. Anyone that gives you grief about how you are doing it is a complete noob.
  7. AJ, sorry I missed your question earlier. A few have asked so I just rewrote the info you are likely looking for. Link below. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/my-climbing-pack.html
  8. Always worth a reminder. Will Gadd recently covered it quickly in his blog. "If you don't have a good placement don't pull up on it. The situation will not improve. Make good placements, which are pretty much always possible. I see so many climbers get shallow placement and then pull up on it anyhow, which leads them to place the second tool at the same level as the poor placement." More here, a video and several other links as well. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/ice-climbing-skills-and-techniques.html
  9. Thanks guys.... The McNerthney Twins...really strong!
  10. The first boot to mix plastic and leather was a San Marco. Blue colored shells. Vintage 1978 or '79. The ones you are looking at are newer than that by the look of them...but likely mid '80s at best...and the plastic does have a well deserved reputation of getting brittle over time.
  11. Don would you mind giving us the history of the 1st ascent and who exactly was involved? Or an AAJ CAJ refernece would be good as well.
  12. Interesting observation from last week's climbing. Petzl hard shell and and a Petzl foam core both hit in -30 C temps by big dinner plates...broke the hard shell and didn't hurt the foam core. It is suppose to be the other way around. I have used a Salamader for years and generally take it on trips where I fly because it should be more durable. Not so convinced now after seeing a few hard shell helmets with broken shells. Having broken a couple of bike helmets in crashes...I know which style of helmet I want protecting my head from head/object impacts and may now want for falling objects as well. But it won't be a bike helmet. It will be a climbing specific helmet.
  13. Likely a long shot but I'm looking for anyone good at climbing ice, lives in the Portland area and willing to do a 1100 mile drive (r/t) and has a economical car to do it in. My truck is too expensive on gas for this one. Living in Seattle adds another 300 miles to the trip. If you are game? We need to go soon....the sooner the better. Monday is not too soon! Anyway you look at it, this one could be a great adventure 12 pitches of moderate ice between granite walls. 1510' vert feet of climbing.
  14. Awesome TR..thanks for posting and way to rally!
  15. Thanks for the kind words. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/ My blog has a 100 or so articles on alpine and ice..including a good video on how to sharpening ice screws. Sorry been out climbing in the cold (-30C this day). Mostly at night as I had forgotten just how short the days still are. And hate typing more than a word or two at once on my notebook Just got back home. Dbl boots, big racks, packs..and my bro Dave. We broke crampons, tools, a trekking pole and a helmet in just one day. That kind of cold will do it generally. And damn near got flushed 2000' off a climb. Expensive...for Dave...but a GREAT trip! Send me a PM if you think I can help on the gear issues.
  16. yes
  17. I take the Grivel if you'll split them up.
  18. Anyone seriously asking what kind of gun to buy for self defense.....anywhere of anyone....has so little chance of using a gun properly or legally in a physical confrontation. It might as well be a snow ball in hell. It is the wrong question. Using a weapon in a lethal confrontation LEGALLY has zero to do with the weapon and everything to do with your personal knowledge base on the subject and your decision making at that moment. Showing, implying, branishing, pointing and may be even just talking about what you are going to do with a gun in any confrontation atomatically makes you assume some very serious legal liability. If it turns out there was no lethal threat (a lethal threat is the only threat you can respond to with lethal force) your ass is in a heap of trouble. If you point a gun at someone you had better be willing and able to use it...because it is just as likely they take it away from you and use it themselves. It is way easier than you can imagine and there are people who train to do so on a daily basis. Just to seriously fuck with people like you. Better think long and hard about what it takes to point a gun at and shoot a person as it is a very real decision you will need to make long before any kind of incident ever happens to you. If you think I am blowing smoke here...take a quick look at the history in the last year or so of local or county officers. Same officiers who are well trained by the STATE and local depts. in the use of firearms, a physical force continuum and the "justifiable use of lethal force". Couple of them have been charged with assualt, manslaughter or worse on a criminal level and all have some obvious civil liability that will end up being big dollars personally. No one makes that kind of mistake on purpose. Anyone who says, "better to be judged by 12 than carried by 6 is an idiot". First thing the state will do is look up every forum post you made about guns...and they'll read that to your jury totally out of any context. Sound scary..it should. Better not to be judged at all. That happens by first making good decisions. You make good decisions by knowing the subject..which is the study of "the justifiable use of lethal force" and it changes a bit from state to state. Worse yet in different countries. Caliber? More people have been killed with a .22 than likely all the other hand gun calibers combined if we are talking civilian shootings. But a .22, .25 or a .380 for that matter is considered worthless in professional circles as a self defense tool. Tiny, easily concealed and carried guns, shooting small caliber bullets are professional tools for very skilled shooters. If you can't hit with it, might as well be a paper weight. You want to stop the threat...not shoot it full of holes and have the threat still wring your neck or cut you to ribbons. All the while they sit around and bleed out but you are already dead. Poor trade. Small hand and big guns? Any thing from a 9mm to a 45 acp is generally considered a good "stopping caliber". There are many guns that allow even the smallest stature and small hands to shoot something between a 9mm and a 45acp well. Some of the guns suggested previous are extremely difficult to shoot well even for the very best marksmen. Some of the cartridges suggested are extremely high pressure and very difficult to shoot under stress. And shoot well you must. Recent FBI numbers show even the best trained LEO miss 55% of the time. Add to that 90% of those shootings are under 5 FEET and are over in 3 seconds. You could ask the 4 LEOs in Lakewood their numbers if they were still alive. Ask your self what you think their situational awareness was that morning. A skilled person with a reliable hand gun can solve difficult problems or create real mayhem very quickly. A smart person knows how to avoid difficult problems. Situational awareness, running shoes, cell phone, gun, pepper spray, cuffs and a knife are just different tools in the same box. If a hammer is your only tool every problem looks like a nail. Between 5 and 21 feet you don't have to be good or even lucky to kill someone. Between 5 and 21 feet you had better be extremely lucky and very skilled to survive. There ae pleanty of places locally I would not care to live becasue of the random violence. But likely no one posting on the board is forced to live in any of them. Sound like a lecture...it was. Sound serious...it is.
  19. Ha, Ha, I shared a hotel room for 4 days with CF recently....he has a rather different sense of humor at times
  20. Free advice is generally worth what you paid for it... Prole asks what I assume is an honest question. Obviously some personal banter going on over long held angst between posters and I didn't see CF's original post. It is a forum, political, spray, thing I suspect more than a gun thing. The only one here using the terms "retard" and "troll" is obviously a gun rights advocate. While Nitrox and I might very well hold similar opinions on our 2nd admendment rights my personal belief is such public antics (all too common from both sides of the gun issue) are likely the reason more don't support our right to own a gun. Hard to hear the fringe element of any issue with much clarity.
  21. Go to the local indoor range and rent everything you think you might want to buy. Then find a good beginning defensive hand gun class that will have class loaners. Send me a pm if you want more detailed info or suggestions on a school. Asking for realistic gun advice on a climbing board is like asking for realistic climbing advice on a gun board. Asking for credible advice on life saving equipment is better left to people you can look in the face and know their back ground before the conversation starts. You don't know me, my back ground or likely give a shit but I'll offer this bit of free advice. 99.9% of the gun owners in America looking for a reliable self defense tool would be better served with a good course in situational awareness, a working cell phone and being articulate enough to use it, than owning any firearm. A decent sized dog can do much of that for you and do it better, except of course dial and talk on the phone.
  22. One of the few things Evan and I didn't discuss over a beer or two that weekend was his rope choice. I was just happy to have any rope to climb on! Not like I was going to dis his choice of ropes while using them. Safely at my computer weeks later I can :-) Having climbed a lot on 150' and 165' (50m) ropes I am not adverse to them in general or for mountaineering, ice or unexplored rock. I had no investment here so just another opinion fwiw. Been a while since I have used anything but a 60 or 70m rope on ice. Coldfinger and I climbed some together in Bozeman while using his ropes. My observation....a place like Bozeman with the majority of anchors and raps set up for a 60m rope is not the best place (may be the last place) to take a mismatched pair of 30m and 50m ropes. It was continually a pain in the ass on literally every climb I used them on. There are enough issues just climbing and with communicating even in a well traveled "practice" area like Hyalite that life is a lot easier if you just stick with the norm. Two 60m ropes in this case. You'll get more done in a shorter and less hassled amount of time. Even if I was to use a shorter rope in the mtns....better to have two ropes of the same length is my though. I like simple...really simple..it is safer. Ropes of different lengths isn't either imo. Color and markings were cool though.
  23. Last year's thoughts on how to put it all together for winter climbing: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/winter-layers.html
  24. Gaston, as always, you rock dude!
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