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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. I think it has been a pretty easy choice for some time. There are some good mountain "axes" and just one extremely good all around tool. More here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3533
  2. New pair (2 tools), 2 mini hammers, i mini adze, 3 new picks (3 total, so one spare). $550. Shipped in CONUS. But will ship anywhere if you pay the actual postage. Pay Pal only.
  3. Loose pick bolts on the Fusion have been a reoccuring problem since day one. Replace the chromed bolts with the original Cobra black oxided bolts helps. A little sandpaper applied to the outside contact surface of the bolt hole with the black bolt torqued with a good size wrench solves the problem. Good luck changing that combo in the field. Another data point after climbing on the new Ergos for a season now. They climb everything as well as the Nomic and as it gets steeper most things even better. Ergo is great on moderate terrain as well. I suspect it will replace the Nomic for most users. More here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/petzl-ergo.html A search there will get you all sorts of info on Petzl and BD tools.
  4. Bit bigger than the guide book numbers might imply Nice job Herb!
  5. I hate skiing and they are pretty damn good ski pants as well One run, 5500 vert feet and just 20k long Yesterday I started out in crotch deep trail breaking for an hour or so. Then a few pitches of easy mixed, -18C and a 60mph wind at 11K and I was loving them! I want another pair before you had pockets to the vest!
  6. Dude no worries,,,i snows here. But it aint like snow there, A snow day here is 80% sun shine and they complain.
  7. Two full days of travel from Seattle and my house at 768' to get here and get my ass handed to me just walking around at 10K ft. I know, "Stop bitching and get to climbing!" How long now Josh?
  8. Whale blubber size fat! Better get on it
  9. Fair enough. I have the lwt hoody and was surprised it quickly became one of my favorites and has replaced my R1s.
  10. Hey they are made one at a time locally...so the word is you can get them made any way or any size you want. Just like a sponsored dead bird. But at likely 1/2 the cost for a better product on this one. Ordering details are after you check the buy box I think. May be Bill will jump in with some more imfo.
  11. Apparently being made in Portland just aint that cool What, no love here for Bill @ NWAlpine amd one of the forum sponsors? NWAlpinist Salopette http://nwalpine.com/apparel The NWAlpinist Salopette is designed specifically for alpine climbing. Stripped of anything unnecessary, it weighs in at a mere 22 oz (large). A nice four way stretch softshell fabric on the bottom with DWR and an abrasion resistant face compliments a microdenier fleece back lycra on top. One long water resistant zipper runs from the neck in front all the way down the torso and up to the small of the back. Three zipper pulls allow easy access when nature calls. Final details include ballistics fabric for protecting the cuff and inside leg from crampon snags, grommets on the cuffs, and a single zip pocket above the knee. Cut and sewn in Northwest Oregon. $250 Weight: 22oz (Large) Available in XS-XL The NWAlpinist Salopette is now available for pre-order for delivery in mid to late March. The first run is limited so order early. Please be sure to include your size when prompted upon check out. If you are ordering other items, please order them separately. (Size chart available very soon)
  12. It has been awhile since I have seen a commecial climbing specific Salopette available. And these are the best I've seen to date. Made locally in Portland! How cool is that? A complete review here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/climbing-salopettes-bibs-and-nwalpinist_15.html
  13. Hey Mike, thanks. The forfoot is a bit bigger than the Nepals I think. They say the same last but i have never really believed it. Close but not the same for me anyway. Both pair of Baturas I have owned are wider in the toe box. I asssumed for more warmth. But they are La Sportivas so it certainly isnt't a "wide boot" by any means. Best to try them on first
  14. The Batura is state of the art technology in a stiff soled, flexible upper cuff and warm mountain boot. What is not to like here? http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/new-2011-la-sportiva-batura_14.html
  15. Good comment. A note on sizing. I spent some time trying on Patagonia gear yesterday. As an example for sizing. Patagonia mail order told me that the nano puff Jacket, nano puff Pullover and several other "alpine specific" garments they offered were the "same size". Not even close to being true. In Patagonia's sizing I can wear a Lg or an XL or sometimes neither of those sizes. Nano Puffs are a classic example. Pull over is a great fit, the zip fronts...no chance in either size. YMMV of course. But a good example of why you really want to try this stuff on before you buy or at least make sure they have a 100% satisfaction return policy with zero hassles.
  16. I found Feathered Friends sizing totally screwed up as is Patagona. A down/belay/synthetic jacket should normally fir fairly loose over your entire kit not just and R1 hoody. As an example of the sizing take a look at the photos and content here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/belay-jacketsthe-heavy-weights.html
  17. Looks like 3 fatties and one skinny...had to be fun! Nice pictures, thanks.
  18. Nice! Damn!
  19. Chamonix! 10 days, 9 hours, 56 minutes...to go Herb were you there mid week or on the weekend?
  20. Rab Xenon Jacket might be an option then. Has a hood which will make the jacket a lot warmer for any use. Sounds like you are not going to be pleased with any of the better patterns.
  21. You won't want a fleece under a Atom LT...R1 hoody at most. these may help... http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-sweater.html http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html
  22. I've got a new pair of these for sale in the forum. Ski, bindings and skins. 99cm. Swiss Snow Ventures http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1002663/FS_Snow_Venture_mini_skis_skin#Post1002663
  23. New and unused. More details here: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Winter-Climbing-Equipment/Snow-Equipment/Snow-Shoes/SnowVenture-Skis-STC-SKI They were $500 delivered from Germany. I'll take $400 Pay Pal or personal check will do. Plus actual shipping via US mail
  24. I blew both of mine totally off within months of an initial tramatic injury. Most surgeons don't want to reattach after 40 plus on age (which I call BS on) and even less if left unattached for a while, but always worth checking. Send me a PM if you are looking for a referal on a good surgeon.
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