Dane

More on the Atom LT sweater http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/arcteryx-atom-lt-hoodyjust-how-good-is.html

My perspective is boots, crampons and climbing specific clothing are still behind the curve in comparison. Climbing/sports nutrition and food have made good leaps forward as have ice tools.

Jim thanks a million for the quick answer and the link. Huge stress reliever

I suspect someone here will know. Looks to me like my heel pieces is incorrectly mounted. Can anyone verify that one way or the other from the pictures? Rear latch appears to be mounted too far back as the "keeper" in just barely engaging 1/2 of the binding's frame. Thanks for the help.

You heard right. A disal detach of the bicep is a common injury for men over 40 that have a long history of physical exercise. Last count on Supertopo literally dozens of climbers, generally late 40s on, with a single or dbl complete distal detach. (bicep tearing off the forarm) Likely many more with partial tears that go undiagnosed. With a quick (less atrophy) surgery, not that big of deal to get back on the rock/ice at the level you left it. Same council Gill gave me FWIW.

Not a lot different discussion than what we have today. Tasker's and Renshaw's gear list. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/02/joe-tasker-and-dick-renshaw-english.html

"The RW overhand is in the AMGA/ACMG Manual as a valid tie in knot and, as a full-time practitioner, I trust that resource." Fair enough, thanks. 12kn = 2600#. Typical 10.5 rope data in the test link I posted is close to 5000# break strength. Any knot will weaken the rope and depending on the knot used weaked the rope any where from the best at 20% to the worse tested @ 50%. 77% of the strength of the rope for a Figure 8 on a bite to 63% for a Bowline. One might want to see specific data on a knot you are not familiar with before "jumping" on it .

Kurt a question if you don't mind? It would first appear that the RW overhand still cuts itself pretty quickly under high load but instead of one strand it would have to cut two to fail. Do you have any published test data showing the RW overhand as strong as or stronger than a Bowline or 8? Just tying it here at my desk, strength wise it looks to be a Overhand on a bite which is much weaker than a Figure 8 or a Bowline. Never seen any on the 1/2 Fisherman's with a Overhand either. Obvious trick there is to make sure it is the rope in the Fisherman's taking the load. My limited understanding of knot strength is the more surface area (rope) in the knot the closer it is to the original tensile strength of the rope. Same reason we use a Figure 8 instead of an Overhand. As I said "limited knowledge" so be gentle

Only takes moments to untie with a major pump...even after big FF falls. Loose Tight You need to pay attention to the first overhand and make sure it isn't directly taking the weight and cutting the harness in half. Play with it a bit and it is easy to see and feel the difference. More here on knot strength. http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope.html Anecdotally, I have taken many many high FF falls on this knot. Knot was fine, loose on the harness tie in points and easy to untie. Me? Not always so much.

GREAT TR thanks! Voie Pellissier, Pointes Lachenal 200m, TD-/II 5a/4/M5 L1 - 25 m : 75°. L2 - 50 m : 80° et un passage de 3 mètres en mixte à 85°. L3 - 50 m : 60°, puis un passage de 3 mètres en mixte. Obliquer à droite et grimper en mixte sur 15m (1 piton en place - M4) L4 - 30 m : grimper dans un système de fissure (5a) puis en mixte (M5) pour regagner le haut de la voie (col de neige). This stuff is off limits to visiting Amerikans like Fulton and Josh Sorry! I hope Josh lives through this post after seeing the line, and Fulton lives through the lead

Easier answer. Overhand and a half a Grapevine as a tie in knot. Always easy to untie no matter how many falls you have taken and close to the same strength as a figure 8 if not better. Solid as a rock for reliability. Always wondered why more didn't use it. I got the idea from something Chouinard wrote long ago. BITD when I winging off darn near any piece of overhanging rock I could find it worked just fine I try not to wing on anything these dyas but still use the same knot. Always raises an eye brow on those that notice and have no clue what I am doing or why.

btt

sold

Not sure Julian but had heard some where around $250 retail. They are not listed in the 2011 wholesale work book. Tools live and die by their picks. Trango's reputation on picks hasn't been that good to date. I'd still like to try them though.

More detailed review of the new Stinger here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/preview-of-fall-2011-black-diamond.html

They also have Petzl front bails installed along with the original Grivels as a spare pair.

more: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/umbilical-attachment-points-again.html

Nicely done Kurt and Rodney! Thanks for the stoke! And a conservative idea of how hard it was...it helps.

cool stuff

Like new, never hit...well hit hard anyway Bright yellow..$50 shipped in the CONUS, Pay Pal Prefered. Fits my 7 1/2 head with room to spare.

I have a pair of well taken care of G12s for sale..bots and straps and pons are like new. No volcanos or gravel walking. IMO one of the very best tranditional style grampons. Good on anything from WI6 to hard mixed or slogging up the local snow slogs. $135, firm, shipped anywhere in the CONUS Pay Pal prefered

btt

I have a new pair of Darts for sale..shippped anywhere in CONUS $135. firm Pay Pal prefered.

AT boots are well worn and accepted in the Alps for all sorts of ice climbs easy and hard.

Some how an opinion becomes bashing. I suspect Mark and "Feathered Friends" now have similar feelings about the same encounter.