Dane

Great article Jon, thanks. When it comes to climbing few have all the answers and as Daniel suggests at the highest levels the answers are generally subjective and unique for each individual. Turns out that likely is the case at any level of fitness. Nutrition for example. If you hang out in the Triathlon crowd long a couple of things becomes clear. Distance equals time. In easy terms a Sprint race is an hr or so. A Olympic 2 and change. A Half 4 or 5 and a full IM 8+ for most. When you start racing past 2hrs you really have to manage your nutrition and hydration. Even the one hr events will demand it at the top levels, even age group events. That is most generally learned pre race and certainly can be easily learned while training. Most climbers don't run the pace of a Triathlon, ever. (there are a few exceptions but they are few) By the time you get done with a a couple of 1/2 or full IM distance races you know what your body can/must take in and still keep working. That might be Gu (usually isn't) or an Oreo. Lots of documented info available as the "best" way to train, eat, build and recover for endurance events. Personally I think Recovery is the key. But no doubt a well rounded base of knowledge that tells you what is suppose to work in all phases of training is the best place to start. I leave those discussions to the the fitness Bloggers. John Frieh's blog for example or his mentor's commercial web site, Gym Jones. Half way through the run on a 1/2 is a tough place to figure out what will work for you outside the box. Bonking on a 50 mile ride 10 miles from home is another one that can give you a good lesson on nutrition and recovery. My thought is, if you want to learn something from the experience, it is better to have those kinds of experiences in a controled environment than while in the mountains. One could easily argue that all this is nonsense. Be it gear, nutrition etc. The most important part of climbing, is actually getting outside and climbing

Emerged in the '80s? Now that is an interesting detail I seemed to have missed The author of the comment (bivy gear and all) incorrectly credited to Chouinard? Try Willo: http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willo_Welzenbach "Even the best professionals of today would be hard pressed to ride a bicycle halfway across the country then climb any of the European Classic North faces with modern gear instead of the gear they relied on in the '30s. That kind of fitness and mental sobriety few still own today." Recovery, diet? Endurance sports have a long history of literature about recovery and diet. Try the better texts on longer tris, running and bike racing. Joel Friel is a good place to start and offers many more detailed references in his published writings. http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/blog.html "Others that are beneficial for the bike and run are reducing excess body weight and using lighter equipment. Then there are sport-specific efficiency improvers. The most notable is aerobars on the TT or tri bike along with other aerodynamic equipment such as wheels, helmet and bike frame. As a swimmer you can improve economy by improving the flexibility of your shoulders and feet, especially the ability to point your toes. Interestingly, the research shows that having less flexibility in the ankle joint makes for more economical running as this appears to improve the release of energy stored in your calf muscle with each footstrike." Easy to see that anyone can can look at alpine climbing with a more critical eye. Training to improve an athlete's performance obeys the principles of training: specificity, overload, recovery, adaptation and reversibility. Climbing to train, is the specificity of training for climbing, and could still be argued as the best training for climbing, depending on what you define as climbing and your own goals. But identifing goals within your climbing and wanting to improve performance may lead you away for specificity alone. Guys like Colin Haley seem to do just fine with Specificity and have been known to make fun of the cross fit crowd in public. Twight didn't make his bones by working out in a gym not even Gym Jones. More likely front to back traverses across the Mt Blanc massif. With limited time in the hills, training for goals becomes another arena...like your garage. Makes some sense if that appeals to you. Working out indoors has as much appeal to me as a stationary bike. Makes sense and good time managment. But I still only somehting I do when I absolutely have to....like when i can't walk. No doubt i could be stronger and leaner....but I'd rather leave the indoor stuff to diet and recovery YMMV Much of climbing is between your ears. Knowing what is available and out there to help you should be part of your "gear". Take what is useful and leave the rest...for the next project.

For 99% of Liberty, early season, aluminum might well get you up it. Except when they won't. Every time I've done Liberty it is the top 500' that have been the technical crux. And it was real ice. I want steel there. Although the option of BD Neve heels on steel fronts would be fine as well if you were cautious. Not a big weight savings though for the loss in performance. My thought would be, if you are asking, I'd suggest steel.

I just spent 40 of the last 44 days skiing and climbing. you? In case you missed it the point of both comments (blog and gear article) "it is more about what is between your ears than what is in your pack". But for most of us just knowing what actually is in your pack is a good place to start.

DPS added this to my blog... Mr. Miagi said, "stay in the middle of the road and you get squished". Classic comment for those trying to jump on the F&L train. I think this could be a good discussion here.

Two comments on lwt is right: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3441 http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/04/fast-and-lightbull-shit.html

Here is my observation from the boots I go through/use for what it is worth. Modern synthetic and fabric boots don't break in with one exception (Scarpa Ultra). And that is a whole other conversation as to why and if it is a good thing. The Nepal Evo or boots that are similar like the Scarpa Mt Blanc do because they are "mostly" a traditional leather boot. But no where near the eventual fit and break in of say a leather Galibier Super Guide. The only way to get the new technology boots to "break in" (read fit) if they have hot spots or don't fit your feet correctly is have a proper fitting done by a professional boot fitter with the knowledge and tools to accomplish the job.

Yes, the newest Batura boots typically fit everyone better.

I have cursed the Mountaineers in the past when competing for the same terrain while guiding or teaching in places like the Icicle or just climbing in Vantage and seeing the over use. Generally not fair but easy to blame them for everything bad in the mountains. Done it myself. Harder to take the time to actually see what they are doing today and look at their projects and programs and the people they touch. Joe (Layback) is a man of his word and made things easy for me to get involved. Easy to do with people like Joe, Jim Nelson, Wayne and Jessica already there with a host of others. The first benefit some will be able to take advantage of is a few meters of bolted dry tool routes locally. That was worth the entry fee to me. If you haven't been by the club house recently and are in that part of Seattle (Sandpoint) it is worth a visit...bring your rock shoes! I've been at this awhile and learned something useful tonight about climbing. How bad can that it be? Big groups aren't for everyone. And generally not my cup of tea but something "new" going on at the Mountaineers. At least for me it is worth the time to check it out.

There is no marked difference in the performance of the Serac and the Sabertooth on steep ice or water ice. Aluminum has been covered by Alex. They work fine in snow....they don't work on ice of any sort. When in doubt go steel. More on the Serac/Sabertooth here. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/11/black-diamond-serac-crampon.html

One would think! Colors are way toned down in Chamonix these days compared to the '80s. While they have had soft shell pants since the mid 70s most I saw climbing now were in black hard shells with a good coating of silver duct tape....even guides! Totally unacceptable as a fashion statement at on time

Great idea Daniel. Most of us will eventuially shred the bottom of what ever alpine pants we use anyway. Mtn Hardware made (makes) a knicker length pant as well. REI had them on sale for $40 or less a pair this winter. I bought a few pair. Big boots and knickers might be old school but they still work and feel just fine Makes a good bush wacking pant with runners for summer use too.

I like simple but very breathable soft shell pants for alpine climbng. I have good goretex versions but haven't used them in several years, even in the worst weather. But I think the soft shell revolution is a NA thing. As I seldom saw Europeans climbing in soft shells this spring. Something to be learned there I think. NWAlpine makes a great salopette which is one of my favorite as is the Gamma LT from Arcteryx. Just hate paying the Arcteryx prices for pants that will eventually get shreaded by crampons.

One has to wonder how much advice is total bs here. Real info on your question or a better answer than the ne fork here: http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_archive.html

sold, thanks

That is pretty cool. thanks for sharing!

Here ya go Dave!

Throw in a good pair of good runners as well for most every alpine approach..makes three pair. All the Kaylands in the discussion are pretty stiff soled boots. Great for climbing...tough to walk in.

Great TR, thanks. It is a 1/2 rope and with screamers it would be fine. I would be quite surprized if it is damaged at all. I'd lead on it with no worries.

Summer, horizontals might be perfect. Or if the plan is snow- easy mixed routes like the Cosmic arete. Plan on any ice this time of year (winter) and you will get a new definition of "hard" ice. Have both here now and used both...just sayin, if you have a choice.

"My generation is not going to save the planet; we're not going to do anything about global warming; we're not even going to change our light bulbs. But these kids have had environmental education. They don't fall for advertising. They know the problems of the world and want to do something about it." Yvon Chouinard, 2011 Ya, good luck with that.

Jaylo? Ya, shit happens when you fall off. Hard mixed on umbilicals...not the best idea any time. Broken, not lost btw. Bet it hurt though

"There is some serious logic chaining there....cutting a stump next to a freeway = logging = raping wilderness = no more climbing for our children = bolting. Well done!" Thanks kinda liked where that went myself "Do it for the children" always seems to impress the teenagers. Trees, stumps, boulders, grass, holds, bolts, brush...move 'um, cut 'um, add'um, shit where you want, how you want, makes no matter to me.

Fuckmerunning Gene. Different ways to crap in the mtns. Bags, cans, out houses, crevasses, pit toilets and freakin rocks. I'd prefer my crap under a rock not on top of one in a well used climbing area. Situational awareness goes a long ways...even on the Internet. Most would if you come to someone elses shit. People in glass houses and all. Hypocritical? Look up the definition. "1. a person who pretends to have virtues" What little virtue I developed over time generally came from being educated to the facts. I leave stumps in the ground now and don't crap where it will so easily and grossly effect the climber after me.

I picked up a few extra pairs today that I will bring home. First come first served... They are rated at 550 daN or 1236 lbf. Not amazing but enough I suspect. No one else saying theirs will better that number. BD is 2Kn/450# and Grivel is 200kg/400# all at the UIAA definition of "leash".