Dane

Good stuff, thanks guys. Any more? Zoran...how heavy is that one. A thick outer sweater or jacket? Or can it be used as a lwt mid layer? I know the others so far. Shak is an all time favorite. I ma trying to lower the level of stink my R1s have 24/7 even fresh out of the machine. Anyone have laundry hints for that?

*You know Evan, for a lawyer I am beginning to find you rather annoying.* Girl friends? I first realised the difference between girl friends and women who climb with my first wife back in 1980. I was slow to the party even back then. And haven't learned a lot since. It became more clear there was a difference when we did a 23 mile round trip hike with a 6000' gain and then 1200' of new cracks up to mid .10 in a day. She was the track star after all and lead trad .11. Not many women leading trad .11s in 1980 that I knew. I was almost always good for at least 5K and a easy 5.10. Some how I had forgotten lunch...but did bring two beers. On the way out 7 miles from the car in the dark, the tears came. It all seemed OK when we hit the car though. Hell, I hurt too ya know. But asking her to sleep in the car to same some money was the last straw. New route...awesome work out and divorced months later. I'm thinking it was forgetting lunch and the Dortmunder A climber may have cried on the walk out but would have been shit happy we had the beer on the climb and a car to get out of the rain in! I still climb. She and her new husband wind surf. Wankers The dude in the spandex panties? At over 50 he still climbs 5.11 and vertical ice off the couch. Even if he were a girl I wouldn't marry him. I like mine a little more "pleasant to look at." But I'll still keep him around to climb with.

Living in the PNW it is easy to forget just how close and how good world class ice climbing is. A twelve hour drive from Seattle will get you to the Banff/Lake Louise area and the potpourri of climbs available there with in a few minutes walk. The few minutes walk has become even more important to me recently having barely been able to get out of bed for the last 4 months let alone walk. That, thankfully has changed again. I originally had hoped to just be able to do the approaches with my friends and may be take some pictures on this trip. Climbing I thought might be too much to ask. Surprisingly, with some very kind encouragement and some tough love from Rafal and Nastia, the climbing came back easily with good friends there to support me. Of dozens of trips, this one was the "perfect" trip. I laughed every day and in the end came home bone tired. Ever grateful for being able to just get out again. I hope Rafal's and Nastia's pictures from our 5 days of climbing encourage others to have their own adventures! The professional photos and any serious climbing were by Rafal. http://www.rafalandronowski.com/ Nastia and I both wore yellow jackets...if you can't tell and actually care, just assume it is her leading in yellow. Professors Falls Louise Falls The kind Dr. giving me my first lesson of the trip My first 5 lead. Rafal's as well. This was Nastia's turn. Nicely done too! Cascade Falls Carlsberg Marble Canyon Rafal's kind way of remiding me you have to "pay to play" with the big boys. Snivelling Gully Weeping Wall

Interesting topic. I've found there are "girlfriends" who climb. Just like "boy friends" who climb. They might even turn into a spouse eventually. Nothing wrong with that. But generally a waste of time past letting your spouse have a quick look into the world of climbing. I'd prefer to get paid if I have to teach someone to climb. If climbing is important to you. There are climbers and those that don't climb. Use your time wisely;) You don't need to hold the hand of a climber..man or woman. Although you may want to And you don't generally bump into them at the rock gym. A good partner in life or climbing is truly a treasure. For me anyway both take a lot of work and are few and far between.

Who makes the best Merino wool hoodies and no stink synthetic hoodies? Links? Experience?

yOU KIDDING ME? nOT MINE... It is the kid in the speed suit not me.

Dave is making head way?!! We'll give a little bump for the Rusky chick on lead. Last week this one would make most strong men weep in fear as would this!

hey Evan, you know well, my favorite situation is a beatiful woman giving me money Even if it is just 1/2 the gas money to go away!

Ah man, if a hottie can't seriously get in your face and tell tell us perverts to "fook off" while still climbing hard how hot on the hottie factor can they be Boy friends, girl friends, dogs, favorite wines and expensive watches are always a good distraction. Really just depends on the questions you are willing to ask. I tend to stick with gear questions

I beg your pardon? Each in their own special way is rather pleasant to look at...and pretty funny...for hippies of course

Ha! I am looking for a virgin to sacrific to the mtn gawds. Once done Jokum ridge and Yeti face should be easy Obviously the little brother is lacking any credibility in that area and will never satisfy them That leaves me with just one option.

That is true Ivan, lasagna is pleasant to look at and should have been an option. My apologies

since they use the same hair dresser, who would you rather follow given a choice Hardcore Baby Brother 5.12 alpinist....or Mysterious Russian, HOT chick alpinist.

Late, but well intended birthday wishes to one who is rather pleasant to follow

Steve House's suggestion with the Primaloft DAS actually. He is also a Patagonia ambassador so the suggestion isn't coming out of the blue. Few minutes in a drier for the DAS or the Nano puffs works wonders. Any primaloft garment I suspect as the heat allows the filaments to uncrinkle a bit and loft up from manufacturing. I found out on the Nano by washing and drying one of two new ones I have. Ended up washing and drying one of them several times during the last big storm cycle here. The difference in loft between the new unworn one and the used one was measurable. So I chucked the new one in the drier for 15 minutes as well and same end result, more loft.

Make sure you throw it in on the dyer on high for 15 minutes or so to get full value from it. But a great piece to replace a soft shell as long as you aren't dragging them against rock. The Nano will be warmer, lighter and easier to dry out. The Nano makes a great mid layer or an outer layer. Some lengthy discussion in the gear review forum recently with e the Nano as part of a winter clothing system. More on the Nano specifically on the blog as well.

Jack Roberts, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal.

"im going to go with the Alpha SV, Atom LT hoody combo" Smart. The guys I know that climb and have the chance, do the same. And all of us so far seem to really like that combo.

Old but a review http://www.epinions.com/review/Arc_teryx_Fission_SV_Jacket/content_314819251844

Just drive up past Naches. It is close to Rimrock Lake just off highway 12. May is easy. Might even be good on a warm day now. http://www.nachesvalleychamber.com/info/nachesvalleywhitepasschinookpassmap.html http://www.nachesvalleychamber.com/info/KloochmanRock.pdf

Geeze sounds like my Mom's voice echoing around my head ;-) How hard can it be to take pictures? You're booked on the 25/26 anyway.

I mean this in the best way possible...but would you mind if I take pictures Ice is really fat. If it is cold and no new snow the approach is reasonable in boots alone.

Will shares a lot there. Thanks Gene. Few will pay much attention though. The risk we take casually is simply ignored. Just as cancer or alcohol abuse are. Most simply don't know how to deal with any of it. Or simply chose not to...which is my prefered choice. "Some of my own anger (and fear) probably comes from an ever-greater sense of mortality."

"Sherpas taking a rest near the South Summit where they break out Thermos bottles of" hot tea with milk and sugar

The choice of the Nano Puff pullover didn't have anything to do with the amount of hoods..as I said partially in jest "the more hoods the better". The system inside the system here is the Atom LT used with a Nano Puff Pull over. That is a 120g and four layer of nylon insulation piece with a over the helmet hood. A super versatial combo. The Nano covers the stretch panels and makes the Atom LT a wind worthy garment. Add the exceptionally lwt weigh (in .oz) with even less volume in the pack for the added warmth is another benefit. One reason I use the Atom Lt (and not the hooded Nano) as a shirt or sweater layer and size it appropriately is because it has those same stretch panels. (which everyone seems to have copied) The other is the wrong size on the Nano hood. The stretch panel allows the Atom LT to breath extremely well when you are working hard. There are other garments that can easily replace the Nano Pullover, with a better hood and differing weights of insulation. But I like the simple 120 combo and the pull over garment with a high collar for my own use. The right size hood (read over the helmet with room to spare) on a Nano pullover would make an exceptional combination for how I use the two in combination. As I said previous, "My suggestion is don't get stuck on the details you don't understand or have no experience with". The nano/Atom Lt is another "complete system" to go over my base layer/s. I use this combo a lot now when I is appropriate for the warmth required.