Fleblebleb and I did it on Sunday. 9 hours round trip, we started from the TH at 6:30. Make sure you go up the gullies behind the outhouse rather than following the summer trail.
"Spare change?" Is not a question. If they mean "Do you have any change you could spare me?" then the above is not a lie. If they mean "Do you have spare change on your person?" then the above is indeed a lie, but then all you have to say is "yes". I prefer to scowl and push by.
Nelson decided to try dry tooling, with rock shoes on his feet and leashless ice tools in his hands. He had modified one tool for the crux by bolting a Pecker micro-piton to the pick. Using these tools, Nelson, who has redpointed 5.13+ and M12, was able to “free climb” the pitch on his fourth attempt.
.. I doubt this is going to catch on
I'm going to bolt a set of nuts to each of my tools. And a few cams. Then I'll be able to climb 5.9s at Index! And it'll be free!