
cracked
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Everything posted by cracked
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I've only had experience with my T3s, maybe it's just that particular boot. I didn't like them much for climbing.
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"WI2-WI5 destroying your calves...It sounds like you still need to learn some technique of how to climb. I prefer softer boots for the mixed portions or the portions where I remove my crampons all together. Rigid crampons can go a long ways to stiffening the soles of the boot, but aren't always desired. " Sounds like I won't need new boots this year after all.
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No, I mean his assertion that steep ice can be climbed more easily in soft boots than rigid boots. I know that, especially with tele boots, a rigid crampon will make a decent platform out of them. This isn't true in leather mountain boots, as the boot is much more likely to twist out of the crampon. And when it comes to climbing boots, I suspect that most people would prefer to climb ice in rigid boots than flexible boots.
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A complete idiot, or a troll. I can't tell. Edit: you have to scroll down, look for the posts from 'alpinist'.
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Kelty Cloud 6500 Pack vs Wild Things Andinista
cracked replied to erewhon's topic in The Gear Critic
Wow.You go climbing for a week with 3000 cubic inches? Impressive. Just curious, with what pack? -
I dunno, I need to buy one, too. The Mammut Barryvox looks tasty, though.
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1. Stuart N. Ridge 2. The really cool blue and white V5 at Stone Gardens.
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Thoughts on the "Fast and Light" ethic from rc.com
cracked replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
I agree that just spending time in the mountains can be more rewarding than doing everything as fast as possible. But only occasionally. Coming back to the first point, though; you can go light and slow. Look at the ultralight backpackers. Light means faster for the same amount of effort, it doesn't mean you can't go out and spend an extra night out even though it's not absolutely necessary. I just like having a light pack. No matter what I'm doing. -
Thoughts on the "Fast and Light" ethic from rc.com
cracked replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
No you're thinking of a climb he did on Hunter. On Denali they took several hydration/brew stops. -
Thoughts on the "Fast and Light" ethic from rc.com
cracked replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
Seems reasonable. Let's see: 1. 2lbs down bag. 2. 1lb bivy or 2lb tent (per person) 3. 3lbs extra clothes = 2lbs belay jacket, 1lb rain gear. 4. Stove+pot+etc=1.5lbs 5. Water purification 3 oz 6. First aid: tape: 2oz 7. Headlamp 8oz max. that adds up to 8 or 9 lbs. That's reasonable. Now for my typical winter outing: 8. 3lbs ice tools. 9. 2 lbs crampons 10. 10lbs rope or rack. Or Skis, boots, skins = 25lbs at least. So I guess I'm not too light. -
Thoughts on the "Fast and Light" ethic from rc.com
cracked replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
Again, light doesn't have to mean suffering. Just reduce the weight of each item of a 'normal' load, get rid of extraneous items, and you'll be as comfortable and have the same safety margin as before, but your pack will be much lighter. -
Thoughts on the "Fast and Light" ethic from rc.com
cracked replied to JayB's topic in Climber's Board
Good topic. I read Twight's book, and I've used several of his ideas. As anyone who's climbed with me knows, I am not very fast, nor light. What Twight's book made me realize is that 1. popular systems are not always best, and 2. going lighter doesn't always mean being less prepared. I've cut many pounds off my climbing system over the past year, but I've done that by replacing heavy gear with light gear. For example, I don't use fleece anymore. Instead, I use the 'belay jacket/action suit' idea, which save a lot of weight. Usually my only extra layer are a rain jacket and my synthetic belay coat. I bought a 2lb down bag to replace a 4lb synthetic. I got a 15oz rain jacket instead of a 2lb monster. I sewed my own pack and saved about three pounds over my old pack. The list goes on. Light doesn't have to mean unprepared. And going lighter WILL make you faster. -
I saw the references. I still call bullshit on the claim that WB400 is less breathable than the true WP/B. It's air permeable, the WP/Bs aren't. I rest my case. Not like it matters to me, cause I'm going back to nylon windshirts!
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I'd gape in TNF, but Patagucci is all I've got, so there go my chances of being cool. Oh, well. As for WB-400, it seems to be extremely similar to Powershield. I want to know where the data in that breathablility PDF comes from, since I doubt that it's true. You can force air through WB-400, unlike Goretex. So its pores are larger, it HAS to be more breathable. So I call bullshit on the chart. I suspect it would be very, very warm compared to other softshells. But what do I know, I don't even like the Guide pants. I think I'll join Distel in bouldering, then I don't have to worry about all this gear nonsense.
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It's weird how photos always make the NRS looks hard/nasty. Nice shot, BTW.
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I have to retract my previous statements. The patagonia Guide pants totally rock, I'm wearing them right now. Nothing comes close to them....for walking around campus. MUCH better than my old jeans. I think I'll get another pair with a bigger logo when school starts, all the chicks will dig it!
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Will FF sell me some if I ask nicely?
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I think I'll go with sewing my own. Anyone know where I can buy eVent?
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Thanks for all the recommendations . I think I'll try Beck's space blanket, sounds like it's perfect for winter bivies. Actually, an EPIC bivy with a silnylon bottoms sounds perfect! The top isn't water proof and the bottom is so slick you can use it as a sled! Thanks, Beck, I owe you!
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I might be up for either this weekend. I gotta work during the week. Paul
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From Glasgowkissorkill I was getting the impression that this guys a very accomplished climber who wasn't much of a prick. This CrazyPolishBob avatar is quite a different story. Yeah, you likely are one of the very best climbers who posts on this board, Bob, I'm just hoping that in real life you're a bit easier to like. I'm going to go scramble up my favorite 5.4 WI3 M2 now. -Paul
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Patagonia Supercell, Sierra Designs Peak Bagger, Marmot Precip, Arc'teryx sucks.
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I need a bivy sack. I want it to be as light as possible, but also bombproof. Preferably Goretex or eVent or something similar. Any reccommendations?
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Last time I was there, Second Ascent had a few. They were in pretty good shape, too, check em out.
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For example, shouldn't "Mmmmmm Beer' be in Spray? Hard to see how this thread is about climbing.