
cracked
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Everything posted by cracked
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Hah! I've one-upped you by waxing my skis. Now I've got wax all over my hands. Lookin forward to the Baker Freshiez on Sunday, forecast says 6000 foot snow level!
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You are all so suck. I'm looking forward to getting to the mountains this weekend.
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I gotta go there!
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Impressive! Dammit, Sky, you never mentioned a bear! I'm looking forward to the TR. And no skis! That's a first, too. Is that a goal for next year?
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I sat on my ass all weekend and wrote HTML. It was
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Why? I haven't done any of those three.
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Where do you get it?
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I just wrote a TR for a recent trip for my website. The e-photos I have are nearly a meg, way too big for the purpose. Question is, how can I resize them and make the page more loadable? I don't have photoshop.
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Boots: light, insulated, leathers. Ex: Sportiva Trango Ice series, whatever their latest incarnation is. Or Scarpa Freney, or Freney XT. Or something comparable. You definitely want leather (or synthetic), but keep it light and nimble. Some insulation, but you don't need a hell of a lot. Don't be a mountie and buy huge plastics, they aren't worth it. Tools: go for some moderately curved all-around tools, like Charlet Axar, BD Rage, etc. If you're on a budget: BD Shrike. These type of tools are good for alpine, but still good on water ice. Crampons. 12-point, semi-step in or full step in, horizontal frame. I've read a bunch of good things about BD Sabertooth. I've got Grivel G-12s, and I'm pretty happy with them. Semi is more versatile, more reliable. Less cool, though. Pro: a few screws, a few pickets, rock gear. It doesn't take much. There usually isn't much pro, anyways. A set of nuts, a few cams, a few screws, some slings, and you're set. The most expensive isn't always the best, but in general, you do get what you pay for. Buy good tools, boots, and poons. It's worth it. Oh, get a real helmet, not one of those crappy foam things. Hard plastic, my favorite is BD Half Dome. Clothing: long underwear, light windshell (like marmot driclime). Light hardshell (eg Precip or comparable). Insulated jacket (synthetic, Golite is cheap but good). Pack: something light, preferably no frame, 2000-3000 cubic inches. Not too many extras. Add a harness and belay device, cordellette, and you're set. Have fun.
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Um, yeah, I'll try that next time. Thanks. wtf? are you so stupid to belive you can learn climbing on internet formum? go climb some cracks and figure it out you dolt Actually, I was referring to a particular, popular, pitch. I was hoping I could learn how other people climb that pitch. Besides, your reccommendation is what I've been doing. I learned that where most people fist jam, I'm using cupped hands.
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Problem is, for skykilo, anything less than http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/Fury/Fury.html is boring.
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cause wind makes me cold. Duh. What works better are microfiber softshells, stuff like the Marmot Driclime series, Patagonia KruShell, or Golite Bark. Stretchwovens and goretex aren't the only fabrics out there...
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I never claimed the pants "failed me". I said there are far better options for breathable, weather-resistant outerwear. They don't provide significant wind resistance, that is my primary complaint. Their water resistance is nothing to brag about, either. Beck: by your reasoning, NO clothing can 'let you down', EVERYTHING is simply 'an option in a clothing system'. They let me down in the sense that they do not work as advertised, at least for me. Yes, they are durable, but that is their only advantage over a simple wind shell. I know many, many people love these pants, and similar ones. Personally, I find them to be too wimpy for mountain use. I'll still use them for cragging, or other mild weather activities. IMO, these things suck as mountain clothing.
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Bullshit. The time is summer and the place is at the crags or in the bar. At least for schoeller dynamic type fabrics. Powershield is probably better in terms of weather resistance, but I'm really dissappointed in these pants.
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Uhh, no, I'd say that's about 1.00000000000001 against. HEY! Didn't think I needed to point out that you count as 1, Cracked. ONLY 1? Seriously, I like softshells in general, but more the nylon windpants variety. This is the first stretch-woven garment I've used, and the fabric dissapoints me. I'm going back to light nylon windpants over long johns, I don't like goretex much either.
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Uhh, no, I'd say that's about 1.00000000000001 against. HEY!
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Um, yeah, I'll try that next time. Thanks.
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sporto Let's see you jam it. You're just jealous, that's all.
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A good #3 is excellent hands for me. A #2 is tight, but still good hands. #3.5 is goes from cups to fists for me.
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since you don't know how to jam properly (see thread about crack too small for your fist ) why should we trust your ability to evaluate gear? Bite me.
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After hearing so many accolades, I bit the bullet and bought some Patagonia Guide pants. They suck. Stretchy, yes, comfy, yes. BUT they have miserable wind resistance, worse water resistance, are heavy, non-versatile, and overall just plain suck. I'm going to shop around for some more weather resistant pants, cause I don't think I'll ever use these for anything but cragging.
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After flailing my way up the N. ridge of Stuart Sat, Sun, and Mon, I've got a question. I lead both pitches of the Gendarme. The second pitch has a 'fist' section that took a bomber #3.5 Camalot. I tried to fist jam it, but my fists are too large. So the crack was too small for fists, but too big for hands. How the hell do you jam something like this? I ended up laybacking, but I'm really curious what kind of techniques work in this situation.
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Oh, come on, lab jobs don't suck as bad as classes. Today was a decent day; the code I wrote actually worked for once. IT IS A CLASS Then I'd have to agree with your earlier assessment.
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Oh, come on, lab jobs don't suck as bad as classes. Today was a decent day; the code I wrote actually worked for once.