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cracked

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Everything posted by cracked

  1. Please?
  2. Once you're allowed into the miracle we call "bars" you'll understand young grasshopper. At least I can climb, even if I layback occasionally. Only four more years!
  3. The last 15 feet are the crux. There's a fixed wire right there. A sloper face hold and thin crack-corner-crimps and big stems gets you up to the next bomber finger lock. Yard on the lock, and you're essentially at the anchors. For me the crux was two moves. I had to stretch as far as possible to get that good fingerlock, you might not reach it. And #2 Camalot is STILL BOMBER HANDS!
  4. NO, #2 camalot is BOMBER HANDS. You'll probably fall off of Kunza, didn't you say on a different thread that you only lead 10d after 15 years?
  5. Dru, you skinny mofo, what do you mean #2 camalot/cupped hands? #2 camalot is BOMBER hands.
  6. 6 grand? And how much has been donated?
  7. Perfect! Pay-Per-Post! Brilliant!
  8. How much does this site cost you two per year, and how much have people donated? I need to figure out how much to donate this year.... To all you sprayers out there who live for this site: cough it up! Quit being leeches!
  9. What was really cool is that I had never looked at the thing before. Walked up, scoped it, and sent. Classic onsight. Dwayner would approve. A sweet route. Fat fingers are NOT an asset.
  10. Just dyno.
  11. Maybe it doesn't belong here, but.... I went to Smith w/my parents. I finally led a trad 10c (Kunza Korner), and climbed a bunch of sport climbs. Hot in the sun, though. I need to go there in the winter more often.
  12. Thing about Denali is that the forward flex is nonexistant. I'm an intermediate skier, and I'm fat, but I have trouble flexing that thing. I have to consciously think about it. The Lazer might be a better beginner's boot for that reason.
  13. I like the idea of getting a light AT setup, ie dynafit bindings, for summer skis with long approaches. I had trouble getting into 2nd lean mode, too, until I got frustrated. Now I just undo all the buckles, lean forward, so the liner is out of the way, and push the cuff forward with my hands. The tongue is too stiff to buckle everything down and lean forward. Did you lose the little cant key thingie? Should be easy to adjust. My setup definitely sucks to carry to snow. But when going down....oh, baby....
  14. Iain, you're on Freerides, R:EX, and Denali's, right? I've never skied downhill gear, but I'm on Diamir 3, Mira, and Denali, but I'd say when I buckle everything down, the forward lean on the Denali is about as far forward as I'd like to get. Otherwise, couldn't you put a wedge under the liner to lean you forward? As for boot fit, my feet are wide and flat, the Scarpas fit me decently. I'm planning on getting thermo liners though, I need to lighten these boots up. AT rules, you'll have a blast once you've got the basics down, Attitude.
  15. Black Diamond Shrike, one hammer, one adze. Straight shaft if you never expect to get on vertical or near vertical ice, bent if you want to use them for WI cragging, too. They are fine on water ice, but not quite as good as curved tools. If you want a more steep ice-specific tool, I like the BD Rage, CM Axar, Grivel Alp Wing, or something similar. One really cool-looking glacier-axe cross-over ice tool is the new Grivel 58cm air tech something or other. Very cool tool. When to use two tools? Personal decision. Most people use two whenever they are on hard ice, even moderate hard ice. For snow and soft ice, one tool if plenty for up to 50 degrees, for most people. If you need another tool, you'll know. Just remember, I've climbed 50 degree hard snow without any tool, and I've used two tools on 50 degree powder wallowing. Depends on what you have and what you need. If you're good enough, many rules don't apply. No offense meant, but why are so many people posting questions that would so easily be answered by reading a basic how to climb book? You'll need to learn how to climb once you've got those brand spankin' new tools, and the book will be a good resource. Internet forums such as this are better used when you want specifics, as in what people think about one specific tool that they've used. General questions are a bad idea because you will never learn all you need to know from tips posted here. My suggestion? Don't buy any gear. Yet. Go out and buy Craig Luebben's How to Climb Ice book, read it, go though some catalogues, and you'll have a good idea of the kind of tool you want. Then go to REI or PMS or FF or some other local shop, fondle the tool, swing it around. If you like the feel, keep considering them. Once you have a tool you think you might like, then post a specific question about that tool here, to learn about its durability, etc. PS Pretty much all tools on the market are good. What you like comes down to minor differences in balance, shaft diameter, etc. The tools will have their individual stregths and weaknesses, but essentially all are good.
  16. Werd, bro! SNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  17. Nice, Timm@y! You're about to gain some revenue! From me!
  18. Beck, please leave climbers out of it. When there is a need, climbers will attract attention. Right now, though, there is no need. What will it do for us? In the past, bringing climbing into the limelight has done nothing positive. Don't do it. If you want to represent climbers, listen to them. I don't fully understand what you're trying to do, but from what I do understand, I don't like. I don't want or need a spokesperson for my climbing. Leave me out of it. -Paul
  19. I'm getting one of those shirts! But make the 'snafflehound' easier to read, the font is screwy.
  20. I don't much like Pope and Dwayner due to their pontificating on this board, but reading the rock cop thread makes me wonder. The two versions of the story are so completely different that I don't know who to believe. Due to this fact, I think I will pigeonhole all three of you into my 'terminal arsehole' category until I meet you. Screw this internet ethics bullshit. I climb to get away from rules. And, since people tend to come off much worse on the board than in real life, I still cling to the misguided belief that hopefully someday we can all have a beer (or soda in my case ) and swap climbing stories. More likely, we'll meet at Index, swap insults, and divide the climbing community further. Pope, I'm absolutely floored that you would set foot in a gym. Sounds like a real retro-grouch. Edit: DCramer is no longer pigeonholed into that category.
  21. If we want a civil discussion on cc.com that thread will need some iron-handed moderation. It is simply due to the nature of this crowd. I suggest that Peter_Puget delete the posts made by Pope, Dwayner, and me, as they serve no purpose other than waste bandwidth.
  22. This entire 'discussion' left a bad taste in my mouth. There is absolutely no point in any attempts at 'serious discussion' on this board. A few people refuse to reasonably debate issues, and every attempt at a new thread is crashed. There is truly no point in arguing, no consensus will ever be reached. Even if the majority of people want to have a serious thread, there will always be a few jackasses who will crash that thread. It's like trying to argue religion. Logic will not work, for the evangelists 'know' they're right. I'll probably still take Dwayner and Pope's bait occasionally, but I'll do my best to stay out of it. I've got better things to do. Pope, your 'setting an example' failed.
  23. Every time a post of mine has been deleted, I've gotten a PM from a moderator. This is already happening, at least in my experience.
  24. Yup, I certainly haven't been exposed to your perspective! You need to be more outspoken, Dwayner. Too many people have that attitude, apparently including your buddy Dope, uh, Pope. With what?.....dude.
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