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marcus

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Everything posted by marcus

  1. The Trout Creek Guide

    Thanks Jeff for all the hard work that you and everyone else obviously put into developing this awesome place, and your guidebook is an essential resource for the area - so hard to gauge the difficulty of many of those lines from the base without it. My two cents? I think that the approach, grades, and nature of the climbing will always naturally limit the crowds at TC. And a guidebook without comprehensive directions is perhaps an incomplete resource. As most regional folks who are truly interested have already been there, it might really just open up the area to folks road-tripping and looking for a nearby Smith alternative. Not all of these folks are in with the 'cool kids' and might not have access to the info otherwise. People in other climbing communities sometimes joke about us here in the PNW...how we don't have much rock, yet hoard it all like fool's gold. With a guidebook, route development and now magazine articles, Trout Creek will certainly continue to grow in popularity regardless. Perhaps now it is more a matter of how many 1000's of people will get to say that they are in the 'cool kid's club' before it is ultimately disbanded. I was always fine with TC being under the radar before, and I applaud your careful efforts now to limit impact, respect private property rights and shape issues around access and development. Best luck to you. And just for the record: I didn't tell anyone!!!
  2. New Oregon Access Fund Rep?

    Thanks for all the hard work, Kellie! As we all can see, working towards organizing climbers and their myriad voices into a cohesive lobby is no easy task. I for one appreciate that you have stepped forward to fill this challenging role for us as long as you have. See ya at the crags!
  3. Synchronicity-free solo

    Nice job, Wayne. Way to maximize a 'couples' trip and sneak out for some action!
  4. Ruth Crampons?

    West face of Bear's Tooth 'White Russian' done in April ca. 2004(?). Check your AAJs... Oh, and Sabretooths are pretty standard issue for AK. Horizontal frontpoints work best in the variable conditions you'll find there.
  5. Possible new route(?) at Pumphouse area: 'Tatras' 35m WI4 M5 is located directly above parking pullout, 200ft right of Pumphouse Blues on the Terminal Dysfunction cliffband. Climb TD, pull overhang to climb 25m ice & turf(stubbies, spectre and warthog useful) and belay off screws on ice above. Move belay 50ft left below ice dagger in prominent right-facing corner. Climb dagger and mixed to more classic gorge-style turf & ice. Rappel from large tree(slings) at topout(60m) or walk left to Pumphouse Blues anchors(2x30m). No doubt that everything's probably been climbed before(yawn) and there's no ice in the gorge(double-yawn)... Also climbed PB to Gathering Storm, however significant icefall while at base of upper pitches sent us packing. Cool line though - and well worth the hike!
  6. [TR] Ice Bender - 12/13/2007

    Way to ride em, boys!
  7. That's effing brilliant!!! Definitely a warranty issue...
  8. La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX Boot

    The old Nepal Top was such an awesome boot. When mine finally gave up the ghost, I was forced to check out a new pair of them fancy new 'Evo GTX'. But Sportiva has actually updated them in useful ways(lighter weight, trimmer fit) and they still seem to be a very bomber, reliable and sensitive 4-season leather. There are way more nimble boots out there, definitely lighter ones available, and warmer ones too - but the Nepal Evo will climb anything that I can in the mountains and in any conditions. So it seems to be the one I'm using the most to bridge that gap between winter cragging and expedition climbing. I know some A-team folks who use em on AK big rigs as well...but my toes are already just a little too numb to hazard that action.
  9. how many 5 year olds could you take in a fight

    My score said only '18'...I felt so horrible, even weak...went to the park to ease my worries...ran to a group of them(just 10 or 12, I think)...CRUSHED THEM ALL!!! SO EASILY!!! Feel much better now...ha! Stupid little kids.
  10. Goodbye

    Unfortunately Mike has already started to let himself go: ...so sad! But Fat Country Mike will have a grand adventure in his new life as a U-tard!!
  11. Goodbye

    From all the deep thoughts... ...and through the darkest hours... ...oh, how we've shared them all. Climb on, young warrior!!! Sob...sigh....
  12. Bozeman Ice Season Opener

    MMA? Is that like 'Cage Fighters on Ice'??
  13. list of cc.comies you'd most like to meet

    I'd like to meet myself...I mean really just get to know myself a little bit better. But you guys can come too!
  14. Taking climbing to a new level

    That is easliy one of the most awesome and inspiring climbing videos of ALL TIME!!!
  15. [TR] Colfax peak - Cosley/Houston Route 10/30/2007

    Nice job guys...has anyone been up to see how much snowfall was deposited in the area during the last couple of days? NOAA predictions seemed to vary qute a bit from 4-14"...
  16. Tell me this isn't true - Jim Anglin

    Terrible news...so often accidents occur in places we'd least expect it. Thoughts go out to Jim's family. Thank you for the inspiration and the pioneering spirit, Jim. You will be very sorely missed...
  17. Drytool area???

    Try here
  18. So stoked...check it out: SWEET!!! ...sickness...omigawd...can't wait... ....omigawd...sweet. Sick...and sweet. Dang.
  19. NEW ICE CLIMBING AREA DISCOVERED!!!

    NOTE: THE ORIGINATING POST TO THIS THREAD WAS WAS STEEPED IN A THIN VEIL OF SARCASM(HENCE THE 'SPRAY' FORUM HEADING) AND THUS ANY POSTS EXPRESSING GENUINE INTEREST OR GENERATING CONSTRUCTIVE DIALOGUE MUST BE TERMINATED IMMEDIATELY! I feel sick now...(and sweet)...I think all those caps got me kinda pumped.
  20. Michael Clayton

    Hmmm...kinda makes you think: "While "Michael Layton" isn’t played in reverse as "Memento" was, its story line nevertheless is dense and fractured. And yet the way it ultimately maneuvers through its narrative makes for one of the year’s smarter movies. George Clooney is Michael Layton, a chiropractor and fixer for the New York law firm of Kenner, Bach and Ledden, who is their go-to guy when it comes to freeing the firm’s spines out of a pinch. Though he can’t solve every problem — he admits he’s no miracle worker — Layton can rub away most "issues" that come his way, with the exception being those mushrooming in his personal life. Over the course of the movie, we learn that Michael is divorced, that he has gambling and family problems, and that he is in debt to some unseemly types who want their investment money back for an online T-shirt business Michael failed to turn into a success. If they don’t see their money soon, Michael will pay his debt in other, less pleasant ways. This is the periphery that surrounds "Layton," darkening its mood while lies and deception rot the core from within..." (Bangor Daily News)
  21. PDX Ice Festival 2007

    A HUGE 'GRACIAS!' GOES OUT TO EVERYONE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO HELP MAKE THIS YEAR'S ICEFEST A BIG SUCCESS! WE ESPECIALLY WANT TO THANK: *MARK WESTMAN FOR A STELLAR AND INSPIRING MULTIMEDIA SHOW *ROGER STRONG OF BLACK DIAMOND FOR AMAZING ROUTESETTING AND SHARING THE PSYCH WITH US FROM DAY ONE *GARY AND KEN(AND ALL THE PRG STAFF) FOR COORDINATING WITH US AND SUPPORTING THIS ANNUAL EVENT FOR CHARITY *DARIN, JOSH AND THE CLIMBMAX CREW FOR ROCKING THE DEMO WALL IN STYLE *KIM, CHRIS AND RYAN FOR VOLUNTEERING TO JUDGE THE COMP - AND BILL, MICAH, MAX AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO VOLUNTEERED THEIR TIME TO HELP RUN THE EVENT *ALPINE DAVE FOR CRANKING OUT A BEAUTIFUL POSTER *AND ALL THE SPONSORS WHO GENEROUSLY DONATED THEIR TIME AND MERCHANDISE TO SUPPORT OUR CAUSE... (IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER) BLACK DIAMOND CLIMBMAX MOUNTAINEERING GRIVEL LA SPORTIVA OREGON MOUNTAIN COMMUNITY PATAGONIA PETZL U.S. OUTDOOR STORE WE RAISED OVER $750 AT THE EVENT FOR THE SOUTHWEST MONTANA CLIMBER'S COALITION TO HELP SUPPORT THEIR STRUGGLE TO MAINTAIN WINTER ICE CLIMBING ACCESS TO BEAUTIFUL HYALITE CANYON, ONE OF THE WEST'S BEST ICE CLIMBING RESOURCES. WITH MATCHING DONATIONS PROMISED, THIS COULD EQUATE TO ALMOST $2000(!) GOING TO THE SMCC. HELLZ YEAH!!! CONGRATS TO SCOTT(ANCHORAGE, AK) AND MERRIDY(SEATTLE, WA) FOR THEIR WINS IN THE MIXED CLIMBING COMPETITION THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE AND WE'LL SEE YA IN THE HILLS...
  22. PDX Ice Festival 2007

    HEY ICE COMP COMPETITORS: DUE TO TIME CONSTRAINTS THERE WILL BE LIMITED SPACES FOR THE COMP THIS YEAR SO SHOW UP AT 5 O'CLOCK TO SIGN UP IF YOU WISH TO PARTICIPATE. ALL COMPETITORS WILL RUN AN INTERMEDIATE LEVEL QUALIFIER ROUTE AND THOSE WHO MOVE ON TO THE SECOND ROUND WILL GET A CHANCE TO CLIMB THE FINALS ROUTE LATER IN THE EVENING AFTER THE SLIDESHOW. This is still a very homegrown, lo-fi, friendly competition for fun and charity. All prizes have been graciously donated by local shops and companies. We'll ask for a small donation of $3 to the Hyalite Fund to participate in the comp. So come on down and have some fun, show your stuff, and get some stoke on for the big freeze...se ya there!
  23. Thank the baby Jesus that you two crackheads finally have something to show for your summer! Papa was gonna make you get summer jobs pickin' berries next year if you didn't do something to make the family proud...
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