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Everything posted by marcus
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Rime Dog Spring TR
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Esprit AER functions as an excellent rap line: small diameter and lightweight, yet with a stiffness that handles like a much thicker line. Reportedly could even hold a leader fall in a pinch. http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Tag-Line-Reviews/Esprit-Alpine-Personal-Escape-Rope
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La Sportiva Katana rock shoe, size 45, worn twice(indoors). Asking $110 shipped CONUS
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Theses Spantiks are used -but still have plenty of life in them. The gold standard in double-boots. Asking $225 shipped CONUS
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Big price drop on these awesome boots..get em now before AK season kicks into full swing!
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TC Pros size brand new, size 45. $140 shipped CONUS
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New price..these shoes are unworn, just didn't fit. I'm rocking a favorite pair now in the appropriate size and they're as good as everyone says!
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New price, shoes in like-new condition
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As of 3/13 Gerber-Sink is still in excellent condition: solid neve and plentiful alpine ice. Good bootpack all the way to Colchuck Lake and a casual walk down Asgard Pass.
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Climb: Mount Hood-NE Face Direct Date of Climb: 11/29/2004 Trip Report: On Nov 29 under cold clear skies Matt Cline and I ascended the 2000' NE face of Mount Hood. The approximate path of our travel would lie between routes 4 and 5B in the Oregon High book, following gullies and open slopes to the summit ridge. We encountered perfect neve, 50 degrees with steeper bulges, often water ice, through short rock bands. Above 10,000ft we found periodic unstable windslab to 24". Six and one-half hours from Cloudcap trailhead to the summit, descending the south side. Gear Notes: We soloed the route without incident, but stoppers/cams to 1.5", pickets and 10-13cm screws could be used to protect... Approach Notes: Coudcap road is still open all the way to the trailhead as of 11/29. We even got a Ford Tempo up there!
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Thanks Keenwash! Post this over on montanaice.com as well for folks seeking condition reports there...
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http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1130597/FS_Black_Diamond_Cobra_Ice_Too#Post1130597
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Pm sent
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Looking for a copy of the 2003 ed. Atkinson & Piché guidebook - not the Mountaineers blasphemy.
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Has anyone driven up to Cold Springs TH this weekend? Wondering how close one can get to the trailhead right now...thx!
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first winter ascent [TR] Mt Huntington - French (NW) Ridge (FWA) 3/1/2014
marcus replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
Nice work John, Brad & Jason - way to get after it! -
first ascent [TR] Dirty Face Drool (FA) - 2/9/2014
marcus replied to Doug_Hutchinson's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Nice work, guys...not too bad for backyard scraps! -
Pm sent
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Lots of great ice to be had in the Gorge Snowpocalypse 2.0...hope y'all got to get out and enjoy some of it!
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Plenty of stuff got climbed on both sides of the river today, Ryland. With the snow accumulation and cooler temps, south-facing lines were easier to manage for some. Winds were blustery, gusting +30mph today in places which made conditions interesting and sometimes feeling colder than the high teens reported. I wouldn't hazard to say what's 'in': gorge ice can be often thin, brittle, wet and unstable - all at once. Use your best judgement and buyer beware - but several parties were out climbing successfully all day today.
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Lowell, thanks for linking to the great NWMJ article. Through your writing I enjoyed getting to know more about the Fireys and their place in the pantheon of NW climbing history. Condolences to the Firey family and cheers to a life well lived.