Bill_Simpkins

Yeah, Whitehorse orse did that to me 3 times before I made it up.

I carry 2-3 6 inch sewn runners, 6 or 7 shoulder lengths and 2 doubles around my shoulders, and about 10-12 free biners, no draws unless its a sport route. I usually put 3 or 4 biners pre-slung on 3 or 4 of the slings and 2-3 biners on the 6 inch runners. 3 of the shoulder runners are sewn spectra, 3-4 are tied 1/2 inch webbing(yes...I know its thin), one of the doubles is tied 1 inch webbing and one is tied 1/2 inch webbing. I also have a cordellete that doubles as a 4x length runner and is made of 1/2 inch tied webbing. If I run out of biners on a pitch I rob them from the left-over cams.

Me and my friend Matt gave it another shot on Sunday. Got up quite a bit further...brought Bugaboo pitons, the seam got wider, tried to stack them.didn't work..should have brought angles too. Next time we'll bring everything and hopefully we'll get it. Looks like easy C1 after seam. So far there have been a couple sketchy placements. I give it A2. Had to rap off a piton. Killer line! Awsome cracks!

My guesses are: 1. Maybe your sick..like mild cold or something. (Last week everything made me sore, really sore, a few days later I came down with a runny nose and other cold symtoms, leading me to believe I was getting sore because I was getting sick, and didn't realize it.) 2. Dehydration. 3. Weather. 4. Diet. 5. Shoes and/or pack.

Muffy, Start on a straight forward crack with easy placements. Just get the system down until you are efficient at it. Aid climbing for me is mostly efficiency, organization and planning a couple of clips ahead. Also, practice jugging and cleaning traverses and overhangs. There are a couple good tricks for traversing like taking off the ascender and clipping it past the piece so you can clean it....stuff like that. Don't forget to tie in short while jugging! While juggin over lips removing a ascender and placing it past the lip works well. Learning to lead overhangs can be tricky and there are lots of good tricks to help, like lowering down to your next aiders. That is just one trick. There are many tricks to aid climbing and you'll discover many of them as you do it. I practice by tying slings to outside staircases(like at apartment buildings) and aiding up underneath. This has really helped with leading roofs. You can also do this to practice jugging roofs. Buy knee pads and wear leather gloves! Your knees and hands will thank you. Maybe start with a biner before you use a fifi hook until you get the leading sequence down. Buy a hammer even if you are clean aiding, since every piece is weighted, a hammer can be useful in removing that stuck piece. Take advantage of the fact you are connected to the system....use both hands and feet to do you tasks. Practice free climbing with your aid gear on...learn how to "tuck up" you gear so it doesn't get in the way. Good luck.

I've had my ups and downs with Vantage. However, the area is really nice, and the climbing is challenging. The steepness is nice. Even though sometimes I don't desire going there, I always have a pretty good time and come back a better climber.

I agree. Go dynamic in case the belayer doesn't have all the slack in. The knots on a glacier rope would be a pain while hauling and belaying. Imagine prussiking out of a crevasse and running into one of those knots !

The snow level has been low. You will have a long walk.

BD Stoppers My Favorites: #7 BD stopper, #4 BD wedge

Squamish and snoboarding and nothing.

Here are some of the knee threads: knee thread another knee thread yet another knee thread

After your fixed back up, try bicycling a bit. Swimming is also helpful. Good luck.

Dru, does the fifi ever fall out when adjusting?

be quite you ....... silly person! Your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries.

Thanks. Fixed it. At school, can't remember.

x=1/2gt^2 meters dx/dt=gt m/s x=9.14 meters implies t=sqrt((2*9.14)/g)=1. 365 seconds to fall dx/dt=gt=9.8*1. 365=13. 377 m/s p=mv=0.036(13. 377 )= 0.48157 kg*m/s

I have 22 neutrinos with the anodization coming off. It's your lucky day Eric.

right !

Anyone get to use one yet? Pros and cons? I like the weight, 14 oz, and I like the smooth contours. Seems like a smooth belay axe and a nice carry too. I'm thinking of getting one. The reviews on outdoorreview.com look like they were written by BD. I want REAL feedback.

I think the key to getting a lot of climbing in the NW is versatility. When it's sunny get on the rock or peaks. When it's raining go aid climbing or exploring, or just climb way under your level on wet rock. Even just standing around at the crag practicing rope technique and anchors is a good time for me. Way better than sitting in front of the computer. Yeah aid climbing to SOME isn't as good as sending a hard free route, but it is still fun, challenging, a good skill to have, and better than not being out at all. Just some thoughts.

Just use the sling recovery method. Don't leave anything.

Thanks for your opinions. Good info Montana.

I dropped a BD neutrino from about 30 feet onto sandstone yesterday. It bounced around a few times. Looks solid under inspection. The neutrinos are pretty light, I can't imagine them hitting with much force. I know a life is more important than 8 bucks, but if its good, I would hate to toss it. What would you do?pretend it never happenedmark it and use it for my waterbottleits junk

My reason for saying "Climb something else", is that it's not worth my time at the crag to argue with people. I'd rather go climb some other middle of the road route than argue with some topropers. Also, if it's SO important to you that you climb THAT climb, you should have gotten there earlier.