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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. That would be New Testament.
  2. Hey, she might not be a troll. There was a recent poster, toast####, who turned out to be real.
  3. I think the Trango Jaws would be a better choice for rapping with icy ropes, as it would be much less likely to collect ice- no grooves or teeth.
  4. These are different times. Dwayner and Pope might have had something to say on this thread by now!
  5. I can only assume that the reason that threads are 10 cm on all screws is cost of manufacture. I have no idea whether they are machined or cast. I figure it's the latter.
  6. You didn't explain the "stealth" part. Where does that come in? Does the foam absorb radar? It should absorb most of the sound of wild...
  7. You should look up Barry Collins (BCollins). He recently moved to Colorado and he says he loves it there.
  8. Pretty soon we'll have someone spraying on cc.com while climbing the Nose.
  9. Sometimes the first bolts at Smith are pretty darn far off the ground, but once you've clipped the first, you are protected until you clip the second. I can see wanting to be protected from groundfall, but wanting to avoid falling altogether? That's silly.
  10. Bummer, man. Your BMW? I guess bolding doesn't work in the title.
  11. That's awesome, MisterE. Bravo! I could see that you pay a lot of attention to detail.
  12. Can anyone tell me why they make ice screws without extending the thread along the entire length of the screw? It must be fairly common for screws to punch through into air pockets and through curtains. If the screw is long, say 16 cm, and the curtain is 10 cm, and the thread are on the last 10 cm, you might have only 4 cm of threads in ice. The preferred solution would be to remove the long screw and replace it with a shorter one, but it would be entirely unnecessary if the threads went all the way to the head.
  13. Come sit down on zee couch here and let us talk about it, shall ve?
  14. I still remember college chem lab. All the books we had still called for benzene for many experiments. The TA's told us we couldn't use benzene any more because it was found to cause cancer. We could substitute toluene. It smells about as good as benzene.
  15. Whatever happened to Muffy, ChrisT, Anna, and a whole lot of other female avatars who have come and gone?
  16. That seems like a fair policy, actually. I think I'll adopt it as my own.
  17. What about Dwayner? Or are we talking about today's posters only?
  18. Dru, if your screw or picket pulls out, the effect is the same as if you sling broke.
  19. This sort of picket placement is often much more practical than a typical Tee Deadman when you are on a very steep slope. It's much easier to cut a vertical slot for the cable than it is to cut a horizontal slot for the deadman.
  20. By happenstance I saw the tail end of Studio 60 on the TV. They featured a five-piece jazz ensemble doing a benefit concert for New Orleans Hurricane relief. What caught me was the incredible musicianship and overall tightness of this band. It sort of blew me out of the water. Click on Watch Highlight next to the picture of the trumpet player Troy Andrews (Trombone Shorty)
  21. Dru, I know you are in tongue-in-cheek mode here, but I should point out that there are two issues to consider with screamers. The first is the ultimate breaking strength of the sling once it has been activated. But the other issue is the activation force and the energy dissipation. Is the device going to reduce impact force as much as it did when it was new? It would take a more sophisticated test to do that.
  22. I don't think it was a case of immaculate conception.
  23. You know you want one.
  24. I detect the distinct scent of sour grapes in the air.
  25. Ordinarily, I only climb waterfalls frozen from the purest mountain spring water. Occasionally, I lower my standards and climb frozen artesian water. But this time, I was really slumming it with Weekend_Climberz.
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