Toast, Mudslinger, Suprglu and I met for breakfast at Sultan Bakery Sat. morning and then did the approach from Quartz Cr. TH on a pleasant sunny day. Made camp by 3 pm. Mudslinger and I hiked onto the glacier to scope out first bergschrund so we could get by quickly in the dark of the morning.
Left camp at Pt. 5779 at 5 am. Found the route in good condition with solid ice, but a bit brittle in places. Climbed lower half (ca. 35 degrees) unroped then simulclimbed steeper upper half (ca. 45-50 degrees) in two long pitches. Fun climbing. Partner did a Vertical Limit imitation to get across a crevasse. Reached Yellow Shoulder on NE Ridge at 9 am. Summit at 10 am.
Tried descending S. Ridge, which none in group had done before, and got discouraged with the tough routefinding, so went down gully to N. end Blanca Lake instead. Back to cars at 5 pm. A bit sore (okay, a LOT sore) this morning.