billcoe

3RD for DMM. They are the lightest/strongest out there.

Nah, I was at his house last night and he was sipping out of a green bottle, maybe a Becks. Hey, we need to do an intervention to get him to quit smoking. Cigarettes. They're killing him.

We'll see you next time Joshua. It was already pretty crowded. If I see that many people I tend to go elsewhere, but in this case - I was there and folks started showing up, but it was good. I must have worn out Tuesday despite not doing much, taking tonight off. But thats me. Who's doing what for the 3 day weekend, I didn't plan a f*ing thing. Anyone need a belay bitch?

PS, more Pam pics please

Wait, I heard something..... [font:Courier New]my precioussssssss Beacons....my preciousss Beacons[/font]

OMG, DOES ANYONE ELSE SEE A SIMILARITY? PIC 1 [/img] PIC 2

Black Butte Porter

Not me Andrew, my wife brought home 2 rescued Jack Russell Terriers in the house that would snap and eat them before I would see them. They can smell the path a mouse walked 4 days previous. It's uncanny.

Right here: The answer is right here link

Sh*t, you folks probably don't have time to hear all the other damn stupid-assed dumb stuff I would routinely do. Pretty long list now that I'm thinkin of it.

When I was young we'd find cornices in the early spring, and all jumping up and down together, break em off and ride em down. It was soooo fun, we'd climb back up and do it again till it was all broken off and we were exhausted from threashing in the deep, soft early spring snow. Quite the pants peeing thrill to see that crack developing behind you getting larger everytime you jumped. Bet thats a safe runout and soft snow.

Photoshopped. Bet Voldemorts behind the curtain.

Link Dry Ice Cubes by Woodys Holds Recently released secret tape from a large white house that sits on a street named after a state: Gonzo: Hey Shrub, I quit. Shrub: Whatcha gonna do, Gonzo? Gonzo: I’m gonna try ice climbing. I just got some new ice holds from Woodys Holds. Look, a hole … Shrub: Watch yur tongue, Gonzo. Gonzo: No, no, look. There is a reinforced place to put the axe tip. A hole … Shrub: I’m warnin’ you, Gonzo. Gonzo: They have a lifetime guarantee, made from recycled stuff and a hole … Shrub: If you call me ah a hole one more time I’m gonna do somethin’. Gonzo: Sir, I am not calling you names. I’m showing you a hole … Shurb: That’s it, Gonzo! I’m callin’ INS and havin’ you de-ported. Gonzo: You can’t have me deported. I’m an american citizen! Shrub: Yes I can, I can do anythin’ I want to. My daddy said so! Gonzo: If you deport me, I’ll just sneak back across the border. Shrub: Not if I build that special 2000 mile wall, that will keep you out. Gonzo: Not really, I ordered more than one set, a hole …

Mikey don't roll that way.

Sorry I didn't have any advice for ya Mike: I was gonna say "welcome to my world" ie: for a while it was 2 full time jobs, full time father, family, wife, house, pets and other major commitments: the whole Hindenburg disaster. Climbing? What the F*ck was that but an old tainted bitter memory of momentary joy and happiness lost in the distant haze of time. F*ck I'm about to cry here just thinking of it. I gave the best years of my life to that woman and those kids....opps, did I just say that out loud? But that sounded too smarmy and I didn't want to be beat down with a wiffle bat. -anyway- Sounds like a nutritional issue to me. Good luck. Added: I took 2 years off to hang with my kids when they were little pups, did some rental house stuff and laid low till my wife kicked my ass the hell down the path to unhappiness again. Good times, my kids and I bonded so tight then that my son's now 17 and its still carried over to this day - unbelievably strong.

Adam13 = Cindy66 ? OMFG! NICE CALL Bstach. Pazzo, nice effort to elevate the conversation, you rule.

Holy F*en shit Wayne, this must be the story how Tim saved your life? You didn't land on any ledges or get hurt? BTW, in case anyone is interested or knows Jim, Jim Davis posted above Wayne about Wayne Haack. Welcome to the forum Jim, one of of the nicest, bestest dudes around, still climbing hard, and one of the person's responsible for getting me into climbing. Jim rules!

We all see right through this attempt to get your post count up Beyotch! Shit, Johnny looks dead up there. Should have come out and played last night dude, Will was wondering where you were. I told him about your cross fit addiction.

You stuck in town and not getting a pump on? PM me, lets climb something. Mike at Dicks Suburu in Hillsboro always was uber honest, reasonably priced and did perfect work. If you doesn't do a car (like the last company Ford Taurus) he will just tell you so and direct you to a good place. 587 SW BASELINE ST HILLSBORO, OR 97123-3840 Phone: 503-693-0820

Sorry, not me.

You'll walk up these routes. (except maybe Toothpick, we'll all struggle on it, "they" say it rates 5.11C or D) Take the first hard right hand turn and park right before the parking/bible dome entrance. Walk north towards the cliff and we be there. Bring a rope and your own personal stuff (shoes harness etc). Set up Blueberry and we'll all rap your setup eh? @5:30 pm say ________________________________________________________ Get well DanL _________________________________________________________ Post release edit: Man that was nice. Bit crowded! Maybe 8 people. The highlight was that Will Strickland showed up in between being a dirtbag at other areas which, as Crackman said: "are comparable to Rocky Butte: like Yosemite, Vedavoo, Joshua Tree, Creek, Bishop:-) " Met 2 new nice people Moira and Preston. Everyone gave good belay and a good pump was had by all.

If you are thinking that way, just do it an do it now before it's open and a big deal. Keep it low and off the net. See the what do you think of bolts on Crack Warrior thread at Rocky Butte for instance. Some would prefer the oak. Once time, Nick Dodge brought his sprayer to hit the stuff out at Horsethief Butte. Someone disagreed and called a ranger who showed up in hot pursuit to stop the action. Pretty bizarre I thought.

Welcome Moira, no worries, once Clif gets the top of Wisdom Tooth cleaned up, all will be good. I don't like the oak either, as long as he keeps at it, all that should be cleaned out. If not, someone else can go spray it next year. When I sprayed earlier, although it had been a while since I'd been up at the butte, I noticed that someone had removed, to the ground, as if they had pulled it out by hand (except that the ground did not look disturbed): all the poison oak by the anchor tree to get to the bolts on top of Smears for Fears Thank you to whomever did that. I know that Oak use to be there cause I was always dancing around it. Not me, I totally disagree. I'm not in favor of bolting any old routes that do not have bolts unless something materially changes or everyone agrees in advance. But thats me. The climbs that do not have bolts on the west end have existed the longest out there, are the cleanest, have the least amount of garbage, are the very best lines, are easy to put pro in both to lead and toprope, and have easily been climbed over 40 years without anyone ever even suggesting that they needed bolts. . Furthermore, any trees which have died or blown over out there are not even close to the tops of these routes. People who just show up and stuff bolts in there knowing its a contentious thing are lame. I wish there was a better way to bring everyone to the table though as just wandering around like Jews in the wilderness for 40 years just talking to random strangers on this issue. It seems so inefficient. Then you have people like Clif, who seem like candidates for saying they don't like the idea but despite bringing it directly to him like 2 or 3 times, still avoided answering. At least he was clear (surprisingly to me) on the spray issue. I don't want the city involved as they may ban bolts, maybe climbing, altogether as that has happened elsewhere. And it is ultimately their choice to allow or not. I'd rather we handle it and reach agreement. I'm not opposed to bolts, I owned up to putting in some convenience bolts on Tiger Paws and Dream Weaver (which were chopped.) I admit it was a lame thing to do. I had some chopped at Beacon too which many trad old timers since, have come to me and asked I put back in. I won't do it though. I put the ones in on Glenns Route (with Glenn and John Frieh who owns an amazing drill:-) and along the top of Bill's Buttress on the new routes without sweating it, but those were new routes and except for someone removing 1 chain which was replaced and then slathered with epoxy, have been left alone. "Glenns Route" in particular, it's nice to have bolts there to facilitate ground up leading. Glenns Route is the easy face route to the right of Superman. Furthermore, I think someone should replace, or add new stainless bolts as backup, to the old rusty mank on Flakey old man and the top of Silver Bullet. Like immediately. I back that crap up, but beginners or people who have just left the climbing gym seem to think if there is a bolt, it will never fail and they just trust that if its in there now it will miraculously always be there for them 100 percent perfect without fail. Sadly not true. ______________________________________________________________ Daniel, to answer your question, I have 2 hand drills which suck, and a Hitachi 18V that I just bought to replace my old Milwaukiee 14.4 hammer drill which looks like this. You can get some of the current hammer drills, like this Hitachi for example, with several battery options, GET THE LITHIUM ION. Not only is it more environmentally friendly, but it will run and last longer and cost a lot less in the long run. I've used a Hilti TE-6, (see the Glenns route comment above, John has one) and that MF will drill holes like a hot knife through butter, but carrying it anywhere is a bitch and it costs a lot too. I'd rather just have a 2nd battery fully charged. Joseph has been using one to do all that work on Beacon, and considering how close to the car it is, plus how many bolts he needed to drill (damn near all of the ratty and rusty old bolts on Beacon were either replaced or had an additional new bolt placed near by Joseph himself carrying that heavy MF TE-6). Price shop the battery before you buy the drill. Even sitting in your basement they can die, and the $ is pretty steep to replace one. Anyhow, Ujahn drilled some holes 2 weeks ago with it, he's a contractor and drills holes for a living with corded tools, and despite the fact that he was hanging on a shitty stance barely hanging on, (difficult to drill) he thought it was pretty sweet and expressed happy thoughts on how easy it tore into the rock. It's not nearly as good as a Hilti, but the weight and price are the tradeoffs I was looking at. It's a lot of work to move something that heavy around on a wall. This Hitachi should work good for me as I don't drill many holes. We should be up there after work tonight, you should show up.

You good with Blueberry and all that horseshite in that area David? Tim? Anyone else? Geoff, Mel, Katie, DanielL, Joseph etc etc everyone else who's been slacking:-) BTW, reminder to all to lets all try and communicate the Request For anchor Bolts on Crackwarrior to folks we bump into. If there is resistance or anger, it would be nice to know in advance, probably 10% of the folks who climb out ther post here, so politely ask everyone their opinion when you're out there eh?