billcoe

p l e a s e t a l k s l o w e r....and use less words.(only when answering these reading comprehension questions)

NICE STUFF RADIC AND SHIRLEY! edited cause I was a dumbass and didn't include both climbers the first time, Shirley obviously kicks some granite ass too:-)

I think this got discussed at length here. He did it 28th Dec 2008 ......pretty amazing.

No shit? Sounds like another typical Rocky Butte evening if you toss in some hookers, hypodermics, crazy people and John Friehs car getting smashed and dashed. I thought you moved to Utah. Wow, wheres the link to the trip report for that one Mike?

You gonna take that Bill? I like Cobra: the dude rules. If Drew is that aware of what his balls looks like, who am I to disagree? I don't even Mt climb any more and Cobra does.

mmmmmmmm chocolate mmmmmmm

And to those of you still using steel 5 pieces around here in the Pac NW despite my ravings, here's one I copied and posted from one of those ST links JH posted: dudes says it was only in 10 years in desert sandstone!! Still called a Rawl 5 piece. This rusty specimen was apparently a shiny new Powers 5 piece not all that long ago.

Thanks Patriot. I would think that a portable power drill might do it then. The rock might help guide (and dull) the bit. Some more Steve Grossman magic: Grossman also postulates that having the entire rock cone blowout is a possibility.....that would be a hell of a mess.(insert sad face here) Getting back to Josephs first point of break and epoxy patch:-)

I' sorry that I don't know what this is in reference too but I can guess.....it must be that you are still beating your wife then..AHHHHHH HAAA! (I'm kidding, just kidding, calm down calm down son!!!) What happens with the Bone stays with the Bone, Pms or not. Pink, John is one of THE most right on dudes I've had the good fortune of ever meeting and climbing with. Top of the pile someplace. I suspect that like others with Kevbone, you are accepting an online persona that is not real in real life.

Commonly the old bolts were 12l14 materiel medium carbon steel, difficult to drill 3" down with a hand drill hanging on a cliff I would imagine. Probably not impossible. The Rockwell is @ B84 or so. I suppose it might be do-able. Where's Mark the machinist for this one. That is probably the 2nd thing to try if the threads strip upon yoinkage.

60? OMG, you're like.....OLD?! congrats, it's whats inside that counts anyway!

Yes, clear through it. I had been thinking it would be perfect for an overhang, but can see that if I rotated my thinking 180 degrees it would be perfect for this as well. ...if it doesn't strip the thread. Maybe I'll try it out tonight instead of draining a full bottle of 2000 Bordeaux like last night.

Nice catch on both points. This is what I have. (from internet) In Grossmans design, replacing his hanger with this would be a more direct pull. Maybe back it up with a Grade 8 jam nut on top once the stud threads through.

Steve Grossman has some interesting designs. For them to work, they all appear to hinge on the stud NOT stripping out. The pic you show will probably make some big marks in the rock unless there is something under the bolts there. Actually, I have much better "hanger" for this application than the one in the picture somewhere in the basement, but I'm wondering if it won't just strip the thread and leave a screwed up stud stuck in the rock anyway. I probably should share it with Grossman as the pull would be more direct and work better in his design. He should go to the hardware store and get a lifting eye. pic from the internet, not what I have. Think something like this but it's internally threaded so it threads onto a stud. I could thread it on and pry straight out with a pry bar. I could get enough force to either get the bolt out, or the threads stripped..... I need to take a pic and try to use it. For this spot I'm thinking, I actually already drilled a new bolt/chain combo off to the side when I failed at cranking the stud out with a 2' crowbar, so getting the stud out is superfluous except as a learning exercise. Thanks for sharing JH. I didn't want to torch the stud with acetylene/oxygen to detemper it for drilling or just melting the metal as I would be afraid of somehow making the rock brittle and fragile. However, I have no knowledge on that. I suppose any effect like that would be localized to a small area of the rock if it occurred at all. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Awwwwww, poor widdo ting. Better keep her away from this new wetsuit then. Says: "No, this swimmer hasn't been attacked by a shark – he's wearing the latest must-have wetsuit. The design, which makes the wearer look like they've just lost a fight with a great white, is one of a range of 'fresh and different suits' unveiled by Dutch maker Diddo. "

As opposed to doing or reading about this kind of thing I guess... Another Freih TR_Burkett_Needle_West_Ridge First ascent as if right on cue!!! Go right ahead. Life is choice.

In case you need one more dude to step and relay how awesome this is: consider me that dude. What kind of elevation/distance are we talking about here? Say base to summit and shoulder to summit? Awesome job and TR. Dave: for having his shit together. John: for that and sharing the stoke with us cube farmers.

I was thinking that earlier...lol, but wasn't going to say anything. BTW, your TR are some of the BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! damn things seen on this site. That and Ivan writing when he's been drinking. What a fu*king poet that dude is.

Damn that man can write! Ivan could keep up with Largo if he could just work on his spelling:-) This captures Bachar and many of our feelings so right on the money.

Pleading with the CC.com brain trust. How do you guys get out an old rusty steel 3/8" bolt so that you can drill the hole larger and put in a big-assed stainless steel monster bolt? ps, big-assed crowbar didn't do it in this instance. (full sided American made 2 footer). The threads didn't want to allow the nut to be tightened up enough to use a modified Lost arrow either.

Yeah, I understand we, like about everyone else, have a US concentric view of history and the world XXX. The Russians have a totally different perspective of WW2 than us on it all. I understand that too. They saw us dawdling and letting thousands upon thousands of Russians die daily even after they begged us to attack and for our help while they, and us, awaited D-Day. We can't even conceive of a Leningrad or a Stalingrad.......or go to France and see the War displays and museums. They, like us, focus on their own country to the exclusion of others. I go to France and do not see the contributions my Grandfather made in WW! as something of significance. Sure, we helped....WW2, same thing. To them, DeGualle liberated the country with a few "Partisans", when in reality..... Same with Poland. The Soviets (and Germans) fucked them over so bad that we have no conception of it and can't even start to understand. We had rationing in the US. My mom is telling me that they couldn't get much gasoline or sugar or some other things. In some of these places they were starving and happy when they caught a skinny rat to nosh on raw....or a leather boot they could gnaw on. Where the hell is Polish Bob now? Give us that story Glassgowkiss. I use to be in the hospital as a patient and later worked in, a VA hospital. When the Vietnam memorial design question was still up in the air (they had requested a design and had received many, many interesting designs). A Green Beret guy who had done 2 tours I was friends with had thought that a single Vietnamese woman holding a baby would be the best memorial we could ever do....at first, I was taken aback and a bit angry, but upon reflection later, I thought: wow, that might be brilliant! Who took a bigger hit? Who felt the full pain and brunt of these actions? Not anyone in the US that's for damn sure. It didn't fulfill the design criteria though, and Maya Ying Lin's Wall is much more powerful to us than that would have been.........but the point is, we only look at us, not at others. sadly

Kevin could still outclimb more than half the slackers on this board, even as a full time father who has a more difficult time getting out.

Oh, come on, he's such a great lil kid. So well behaved. Best lil kid since my own of course:-) Shaun (now 19 years old and at college) back when inbetween the grandparents.... After the 3rd ascent of Conga line up at Jimmies 2 weeks ago. Damn I got so lucky with that lad. Never beat him....except for 3 times. Once, right after Eric Clapton's kid had fallen out of the window, and I'd specifically discussed it with them both, the lad (then 5 years old) jumped up and was hanging out of the 2nd story window head first and I caught him in the actand drug him back in while I whacked. The second was the 2nd or 3rd time I caught him the same day sticking crap into an electrical outlet....I thought that was it but the boy remembers another time....I almost never had to hit my kids as they do whatever I'd ask - always. The few times that didn't occur, I had not done a good job communicating. I suspect Miles is the same way. Good kid.

LOL: You'd really like Kevin Rudy. Even after he's made the same damn inane statement 59 straight times...Kevbone has a good heart. Better than most of us for sure. This is a dude all of you would like if you met him in person. A good father and good guy. Amazing beta and memory of routes and gear needed. But the online persona sometimes...whew! In person with Baby Bone..(showing up to help and say hi to the late Kevin Rauch and get his boy out into the woods) another good lil fella.

I perused that web site and none of those 3 things are on it, but check it yourself. http://stuffgodhates.com/ Bet the Michael Jackson funeral and all that hoohaa (ie, Horeshit) is #1 right now. Opps, just checked and it's not even ON the list. The world is so upside down right now. http://stuffgodhates.com/full-list-of-stuff-god-hates/ How can this be???!!! ps, Cats is #20