billcoe

Someone asking Ivan about correct aiding ethics and grabbing gear on regular routes.....it stopped me dead in my tracks in wonderment and I had to slow down and re-read it. This is highly and spectacularly irregular..... [font:Courier New](he says while sitting back in the easy chair and grabbing some popcorn)[/font]

Are you accusing a dude who works at Deschutes brewery of (gasp) drinking PBR? Strong words. Maybe she'll get her draws back although it's traditionally considered bad form to leave your gear like so much trash on a popular route. I've only heard of stuff being return if it gets left behind in an accident/forced bail, otherwise, folks think it's booty and they are contributing to the general good by cleaning up the trash others left behind. Good luck! Geoff - I heard you were just huddled in the neck cave from the rain the other day? No pictures of this sogfest?

Congratulations both on explaining in such few words how inexperienced they were and also in surviving the trip.

Damn pussy Coloradoans. With picture of the ass in question. http://www.postindependent.com/article/20090902/VALLEYNEWS/909019989/1083&ParentProfile=1074 "SILT, Colorado — A newly unveiled art piece in the Silt roundabout is proving to be the butt of controversy for the town. And in hindsight, the town board should have seen it coming. However, it seems they chose to turn the other cheek. The backside in question is that of what is being perceived to be a naked rock climber on one side of a sculpture sitting in the middle of the town's new roundabout at Main Street and the Interstate 70 overpass downtown. In response to the sculpture, which was unveiled on Aug. 21, someone early Monday morning pinned a piece of cloth, which resembled a pair of boxer shorts, to cover up the naked rock climber's buttocks. Commuters on their way to work stopped and stared and some even took pictures. Forrest Jacobs of Silt is outraged by the sculpture and says he is not the only one. “It's not just me — there's a lot of people,” Jacobs insisted. “And it's not the sculpture — it's the one part — the naked man climbing the wall.” Jacobs, who is a plumber, said it was the “crack” of the sculpted figure's buttocks that disturbed him. He also said that he had spoken with a school teacher who said the kids were disruptive in class because they were busy talking about the nude sculpture. “Everyone thinks it's not appropriate for that to be showing,” Jacobs said. He added that a prior rendition of the sculpture before it was built only showed a man on the wall. “There was no crack involved,” Jacobs insisted. “He just put that in and now it stands out.” The sculptor, Blaine Peters, who owns Rock Work Unlimited in Rifle, was commissioned by the town of Silt to create the sculpture, but was out of town on Monday and had no idea of the controversy taking place. “You've got to be kidding,” Peters said when he was told. “What's funny about the whole thing is that the form has no ears, no mouth, no hands and no feet and no one's complained. It's not a man or a woman. It's a human in the rawest form climbing a rock. What's amusing to me is that they don't see it for what it is. They only see what they want to see.” Peters maintains that he submitted a model of the artwork to town board members before creating the sculpture, which included the rock climber with the now controversial crack. The model was approved by the town board. Mayor Dave Moore said he did not want to offend the citizens of Silt, but on the other hand, saw some humor in the situation. “We have sympathy toward [Jacobs'] argument, but on the flip side, it's an artist's rendition,” Moore said. “But perhaps it's a little too sensitive and being carried a little too far.” Jacobs said he went before the board to complain at the Aug. 24 regular town board meeting, but got little response, except being told that one of his options would be to present the board with a petition of signatures, which he says he will do if he has to. The town directed staff to remove the material by Monday afternoon, but is still interested in who pinned the “boxers” on the buttocks. “There will be a possible investigation as to who put them there,” Moore said. “It's vandalism. It's defacing public property — there are laws attached to this.” Seven miles down the road to the west, the city of Rifle last summer unveiled its new sculptured rendition of a cattle drive in the middle of its two new roundabouts between I-70 and Airport Road. The sculptures include anatomically correct cattle with bull testicles and cow teats. “We haven't had any complaints — not a word,” Mayor Keith Lambert joked. “I guess we're just an easier, happy-go-lucky crowd.” As far as Silt's sculpture, in which the rock climber's backside faces Rifle, there are other theories. “The word on the street is that Silt is mooning Rifle,” Lambert said with a laugh. “So you can only guess what they're doing to Glenwood.”"

Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! I'd consider it a small price to pay to learn how to aid climb on your own. Many others pay with their lives. Much cheaper and easier to just get instruction.

The country had one of those in the 80s.

I guess I'd better change the story so that your imaginary girlfriend isn't doing your imaginary best friend Porter! BTW, Is this going to end with the dog finishing itself off by having it's way, sexually, with my crushed and immobile body? Cause I don't think even Mel can rework that to make it sellable! Don't be writing this dog in either....Chihuahuas don't sell. This Mt Hood speedclimbing wonder pooch below could do the job I bet...seen here finish a tiger in 30 seconds. I need to change up that Canyonlands poster up there to read: MOUNT HOOD, COME FOR THE CLIMBING, LEAVE WITH AN STD Man, guys can't comprehend the whole romance genre can they?

Welcome Mel, I knew your skill and imagination could turn that into something interesting if you work on it long enough. Maybe someone has something good though....

Rocky Butte tonight by Video Bluff. Price tag on the bottom, brand new. Identify color and model and its yours.

Oh oh oh, OK, dude has an accident where the ice from a crevasse pins his arm, our hero Hugh heads up in deteriorating weather with the uber hot and smokin' sexy Carly hot on the rescue, Jake is not available...uhhh he's at work lets say and busy. They creep into the crevasse together just as a massive chunk of ice falls over and pins them. The injured man is released when the ice fell and he goes onto get rich making climbing shirts like this: ...leaving our hero with the recently impregnated yet still smokin hot Jakes wife alone with 2 sleeping bags that have the reversed zippers so they will zip together...hmmmm... See where this is heading?

The title is "To the depths of depravity...and back" The up hill part of a crevasse sloughs off as they are on a climb just before the weather turns to crap, trapping the hero in an icy tomb with his lover. They decide they will then act out their depraved sexual fantasies before they die, fortunately, they have a flat spot and a down sleeping bag to crawl into, plus all those ropes and runners Jake Porter (Hugh couldn't really do this part but we all know Jake could) ties her up with and they just make up the rest about the midgets with tricycles and the sheep. (Something similar to the first part just happened to Craig Lubben with tragic results) http://climbing.about.com/b/2009/08/10/details-on-craig-luebbens-tragic-climbing-accident.htm The friends can't get Mt rescue interested as the weather is already too bad and getting worse (this one really happened to a friend of mine and some of us went for him anyway), so the friends strike out on their own with the wonder Husky who had sniffed a used pair of the woman's panties that had been recently slid down over her warm sensuous thighs and the dog, sporting a bone, is now tracking the scent....(I like the sniffing part and it would work great for the movie but I admit that its a stretch that a Husky is actually going to be sniffing them out) Taaaaa daaaa!!!!!!This stuff writes itself. Let me know if you need more, and I'll start drinking so it gets real racy....

It was tongue in cheek humor aimed at the old folks. We all eagerly await Geoffs trip report climbing out of bed as we know that he hasn't seen the inside of a gym since 8th grade gym class.... Geoff seen here in a previous engagement as a Giardia tester. Geoff rules!

Maybe Jeff will comment.

OK, but make sure you don't start showing up posting Trip reports to the Portland Rock Gym (PRG) cause if you do there are folks who will be damn moody and vocal about it if you do! Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? I must sound so old sometimes......

You need to edumacate those who do not have a clue then or it's on you as much as them. I haven't been to carver for years, but it seems like you guys that do go there need to be proactive. Just be calm and let folks know all the details when you bump into them. Be proactive and things will be fine, let it slide and the landowner will have no choice it appears. Good luck!

Thanks Mark. I don't recall seeing many of these (I maybe never have seen one) yet. Can anyone else say if they are aware of this hanger being located on other routes or anyplace else? Has anyone here besides Pete ever seen a Kong - Bonatti hanger before? I don't remember ever seeing one. (but I live a sheltered life:-) Probably need to get some widespread reporting out there for other climbers in other areas to share the info and look for more hangers to verify condition of any still in play.

OMG ! I almost sprayed cider through my nose! Porter, great find. You can see the tree leaning right towards the house...the woman doesn't see it, nor does the saw operator. No one gets hurt and they still have a place to sleep in while they consider this entire experience.... classic! Kimmo, hope you get this on video and U-tube it for sure!!! Of course, yours will be flawless.

Radek is a local and posts on CC.com as FGW. They did a solid lap up Lurking Fear on El Cap earlier and that excellent trip report got noted on this site. I wonder if he didn't want to put this on this site due to some of the needless crap we posters sometimes give folks.....I really don't know, but the Summit posters response's all seem pretty supportive, and I wonder if that would be duplicated here. Noticed that this thread seemed to start in spray, as if it would go down hill. Hopefully this thread stays civil....even though it is in "spray" where anything is suppose to be allowed. Take care all, but especially you folks Radek and Shirley, that kind of thing isn't good at all, wish you both well.

That's not chalk in the lower part of the Bacon Peak picture above, I think it's just clouds.....that would be a lot of chalk. JH, I was thinking of you: I just got back from an afterwork Warriors lap. there was almost NO chalk, OK some but minimal, on the route.

"Right now just be extra cool when you're out there and if an older guy comes up and ask to see your ID or if you've signed the waiver, be very polite." Well said....I'd add, that if you see others there be pro-active and asked them this and discuss the other rules before the "Old Guy" arrives. I once helped some ranchers birth some sheep in early spring while hunting Carnelian Agate. I just wanted them to unlock a Weyerhauser gate so I could access a stream bed and I knew they had the key. Instead, I saw they were damn busy so I gave up my day to help. Basically I helped them birth lambs (this is as much of an assholes and elbows hustle up job as I've ever done). The ranchers, a man and a woman alone who were radically understaffed and could have used 3 or 4 more hands) were eternally grateful. I was eagerly, heartily and happily greeted as a close friend and partner each and every time I showed up thereafter. Many others were later refused access, it turns out the ranchers could make the call based on the attitude test. If we all keep the landowners needs on the top of the things to be thinking of things will end up OK.

Bacon Peak (mitochondrias photo) Just trying to help.

Added an extra word in there for you, and easily hired out to an expert too. Doing more of it will get you the experience to do it safer, but that's why you hire it out, most of those tree guys do it cheaper than I could imagine doing something similar for. Watching an expert work his magic is amazing. .....jus' saying'.....

Bill I seem to remember a picture with some blood on a pant leg or something along those lines. Snap crackle pop must be different then holes in your knee right? Oh yeah....I had forgotten about that - so ... abuh abuh abuh.....DOHHHH....but that was ....ahhh ..... nevermind....I can see I'm in do as I say not as I do mode. I think I do that to my kids too and it never works good there either. The route got a snazzy name. Kyle, seen here to my right after we had gotten down to the ground and Lost Cam Kenny (left) was getting ready to do the 2nd ascent, named it "Wounded Knee". OK: I remember now cause it screwed up my Yosemite trip. If I'd just gone and elevated, iced and stitched it up immediately instead of hanging around and climbing on it, it most likely would have been healed by the time I went to Yos and I could have been climbing and wouldn't have been "Camp Bitch". My main point is that we all are wishing you a speedy recovery Selkirk. Unfortunately I don't know any docs in Seattle. But I bet there will be plenty of advice on it subject soon. Good luck!!! (BTW, what Mt Guide says above still goes for me too:-) )

A truly amazing demonstration of the moron mindset. "It's all true, because he says so on his website!" ...and yet you bring NOTHING to the table to debunk Moore or anything he has ever said. I personally know there is plenty, but what does that say about you?

Dude dude dude, this is where you were suppose to stop, elevate and ice....Dude!