billcoe

Ditto, nice!

Oh, and the pictures linked up there: I think that is the 2nd ascent, the first 4 year old ascent, of Kitty (kiddy) Litter is it not? I missed it but I heard about it! Damn exciting and invigorating, that's the next generation right there running laps on yer routes boyz. What a cutie, wish it was clearer. You'll have some great, heartfelt memories of this long years after she grows up and moves out.

I understand that there is ALMOST (almost) a SINGLE aid line at the Far Side. Actually, as there is no chalk on aid routes, it's difficult to determine it for real. As of right now there is NONE, I think. There's a part of one for sure there by the blackberry bushes in the Drop Zone area - as you know, having retrieved Jons gear. That may in fact be a full aid route. However, that one will certainly go free once it's clean and dry, leaving ....NO aid routes anywhere on the cliff. None. Not a one, zip...zilch... Yup, the whole aid renaissance thing is a bit out of hand. Rock on. ps, thanks for the thanks up there!

Great timing as they're running a special on cans of Moss-B-Gone right now!

It's OK. What are you pairing it with? OH, MY STOMACH OF COURSE!

SOOOBOOO! wHAT TIME IS IT? W00T!?

Hugh, is that Ill papa for an Avatar pic? Whats with you and Off getting religion? BTW, as long as we're "perving" out, check this. Doesn't that just look wrong? OMG!

Yo Don, if not Hayduke (who tossed his empty beer cans right out of his jeep for those who forget), how does ...........wait for it............ THE IMPACTER! roll off the tongue?

OK JUST ADMIT THAT YOU'RE PINK ALREADY AND YOU HIJACKED OLYCLIMBERS GOOD NAME OMG BANZ HIM BANZ HIM!!!!!! ps, still raining hey?

"The study offers “striking evidence” that the right TPJ, located at the brain’s surface above and behind the right ear, is critical for making moral judgments" Mr Stonehead, your new cell phone implant is here, Mr. Stonehead....

JAKE? ....JAKE IS THAT U?

Yup! It's awesome climbing Rob, as fun as anything in the state. There's some serious bullshit there too as you say (nice call), not in a good way at all either: but when it's good, it's unf*ingbelieveably GREAT!!!! BELOW -close up of stepping off that sub-pinnacle you can see in the left in the top pic. I thought I might be able to push off that pinnacle my right foot is on, and I tried to wiggle into the gap between the 2 pinnacles and push with everything I had lower down, but it stayed there so I slung it for pro. I think a car jack would topple it, but I'm leaving it. You can see all my gear below and my anchor tie off in the top pic as well: Don will give me crap for that top picture as I'm caught in the process of leaving my trash behind to rap off, and not climbing with a leave no trace philosophy which he practices. Right Don? You PRACTICE that bullshit your spout don't ya? You don't leave your trash like slings behind on public property or use pitons as they destroy the rock? Right? To my credit, I did solo up that thing there, ground up, no bolts, with sparse natural gear, got lucky and made it to the top. I was too fearful (*cough* scared shitless relieved and feeling lucky* cough*) of downclimbing it, so I left the sling and rappelled. I wish I could be like Don and had the stones to downclimb it so as to have left no trace. Don, it hasn't seen a second ascent yet, it's all natural, no bolts, want to take a shot? I'd love to see if you could downclimb it after your remove my rap sling, that would be fu*king rad and bold sir! RAD AND BOLD! Don, I didn't mean to be the bully on this drill naming thing, was trying to be playful - I probably need to put more smiley faces in my posts. However, as long as we're being serious, I just think that you interjecting yourself all the time where you are not needed is kind of off kilter, like in the conversation we were having on a regular forum thread. See, we were already having a discussion on restricting bolts at a cliff. I was getting crap for supporting a friend who would like to see minimal bolts on the crag, and for the place we were discussing there, I totally agree. What that means in real life is different than on the internet, and the disagreement we had was already laden with unfortunate miscommunication when you showed up with your foot in your mouth trying to cause more. I suspect that if you looked at the cliff in question, you'd be in agreement with what the majority of us want for it. Take a shot at Josephs masterpiece "Hollow Victories" and tell me it shouldn't have a single bolt on it. Without that bolt, it would never be climbed. Suicide perhaps. As it stands with A single bolt, it's not a gimme at all, one needs to bring their "A" game and weave together the complex dynamic of moves and gear pro. It could easily have 9 bolts on it had another done it first. There are those who would still argue for it too. See, I object to those folks who want the 9 bolts, and I object to you. You would say that the route shouldn't exist then, no bolt. Getting to the top to just toprope it would not be easy or taken lightly. More like a mini-expedition. So we might as well stay home and watch tv then. So the questions we are trying to ask ourselves, those of us who live here and climb on this cliff, is what the place is going to look like for the next generation. For the cliff with the pictures here, different place. It's out in the sticks a bit, with some great movement and challenges. Look at the picture below. Are you saying you want to climb that without bolts? There's bolts in the picture above me there, maybe you want to circle them in red or replace them with BLT pics? Go ahead, it will be fun. Find them, this is a close up as I'm 25-30 feet off the deck here. I bought the new drill so that I can have it for another pinnacle project at this very spot. We have a route that goes up 200 feet or so to where the lil XXs are on the right in the picture below. Thats the high point. The picture above with the lil bumps is the start of that pitch up close. We're not too sure how hard that is, probably between 5.8 and 5.10 something I suppose. Anyway, need to head up for another pitch soon to get to the top of that pinnacle on the right you see below. I was going to try it with the tie offs on knob thing, but the knobs break off relatively easy, and a fall could easily be fatal. So I was going to climb up with a tag line, and if I needed it, pull up the new, lighter drill. It's sooooo much lighter. The top picture is the pinnacle on the left with the 00s. The 00s are that rap sling. Seems to me, that not putting in bolts here is fu*king over everyone who follows. It's fun to do a route or 2 where a fall may mean death, the top pic might qualify for some folks, but what's the point of that unless you're trying to show that your penis is bigger than G-spotter thinks? As I already know mine is short, I have nothing to prove, I'll just put in the bolts for everyone else......

Damn I'm afraid to ask what that thing is screwed into.

Exactly Off, because this looks to me to be a way for the gob'ment to support General Gob'ment Motors and Suburban/Tahoe production for years and needless years. I feel for the folks (our lil childrens') on the back end who will be overpaying full value when we needlessly and stupidly run out so much sooner of cheap gas. I suppose it's easier to act, and than think: as opposed to the reverse. I'd given up on Bush/Cheney who supported big oil due to their investment and personal history's: but I had higher hopes for change from Obamas group. ps, I could easily support increased drilling as part of an overall plan that included reduced consumption as well so as to not have to be licking Arab (Canadian, Mexican, and Venzualan as well) sack in the coming years....so fucking sad, stupid and wastefully needless.

By way of thanking him, since Don came over to our personal bolt chopping thread (where I get told I'm an elitist for thinking that a voluntary restriction of bolts at the Far Side is a good thing) LOL. I thought I'd better bring this over here for Don as Ivan, who has intimately caressed and stroked the Lil Dawg himself, already hijacked that chopping thread with some great Yosemite pictures. I already have a "Lil Dawg", named in honor of Raindawg - the perpetual bolt bitcher/complainer/Elmer Gantry Gladys Kravits of CC.com. The "Lil Dawg" has seen lots of publicity and is very famous for it's numerous yet needless gratuitous taunts to Raindawg. Yet this new drill, who will be keeping the Lil Dawg company, is even smaller and perhaps, it may be said: meaner and nastier. Lil Dawg is 9.6 lbs. This lists even smaller and lighter at 6.25 lbs with battery. I've pulled the front handle off and this new one is actually under 6 lbs on the scale!!! 36Volts MORE POWER W00T! It's already done it's first bolts. My special question is this. Don, (or anyone) what should we name this new beast?! Remember to bring out your sharpeye sticks for this christening: ps, as an aside, the road going to that crag Don references below which he has never seen or heard about, is huge, with massive environmental issues and wildlife impacts. They will be spending over 10 million of your Washington Tax dollars this year to straighten out and enlarge @ 2 miles of it, that's $10,000,000 Washington State monopoly money - yet not a peep about that from Don. Please remember that it' can't be called "Lil Dawg", seen below in action, as that's been done. Action pictures of the original "lil Dawg. The Lil Dawgs good side Lil Dawg and friends Scott Peterson drilling the rap anchors on "Child Abuse" with The world famous "Lil Dawg". Lil Dawg taking a nap. ps: S'UP Dawg? Yo yo yo!

Those should be easy to score, as most climbers who buy that set wind up liking other cams much better in those sizes (Aliens, Mastercams). Just keep your eyes open.

Lost cam Brokeback Kenny?

http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2010/03/smith_rock_route_first_kiss_-.html The money shot: Ben and Larry -good guys both.

Especially given the various exclusions and processes that accompany actual drilling. As in, no one will see any oil out of these wells until well into Obamas second term. Few issues strike at the core of our countries power and wealth like this one, yet somehow it evades anything but a piecemeal approach. Cest le vie, anyway, once Barak gets those new Nuclear reactors he's talking about up and running.....

Drill everywhere we can for oil. http://www.breitbart.com/article.php?id=D9EPO6880&show_article=1 This was what George Bush wanted as well, but everyone said he was a douchebag for even thinking it. Here's to hope and change. BTW, this may be left unspoken, but I suspect that the country's critical energy policy, formulated during the Carter years and revised to be all but ignored during the Reagan years, is most likely slated to be finally looked at about 2020 once the well runs dry on big oil and we're all burning the plentiful coal available. The word "CONSERVATION" is still evil for politicians to even think, let alone say, evidently. Meantime, President Bush Obama will lead us down the big car road so we can get rid of that nasty oil as rapidly and cheaply as possible.

The company which makes Aliens: CCH, is for sale. Please contact Nadia Waggoner if you are interested. cchaliens@aol.com Nadia Waggoner production/office manager Colorado Custom Hardware 115 E.Lyon Street Laramie, Wyoming 82072 Malcom of Trango says it won't be him, BTW.

? ? ps, I'm callin bullshit on Rednose being drunk, he nailed it first time and put it in the right thread.

Jim's followed me up probably over 10-15 new routes in the last year (so if we can climb them you know they're easy) and belayed me on a few more he chose not to follow - whereas Kevbone is gonna be old and fat like me if he's not careful, (nudge nudge) I don't see him out as much. Truthfully, all of us would be bad sheriffs I'd suppose. This only looks like ground, it's a notch in a cliff @250' up. Endeavor to Persevere gentlemen!

I'll pass on the face to face unless we're out climbing same time, but in case it wasn't clear enough already, I support whatever Jim says on this. The Far Side ain't "my" place and I don't own it (I wish), but I like it and it's where I go to hang with my buds when its wet, cold and/or Beacon is closed. Neither one of us, nor anyone I know who climbs there, would want to be the rock police either, although if there was an election I'm sure Jim could get elected as "Rock Sheriff" ....or mayor I suppose. -Regards to all.......

This isn't 20 year old news that you're trying to recycle is it? Maybe everyone just assumed it back then....