billcoe

SOOOBOOO! wHAT TIME IS IT? W00T!?

Hugh, is that Ill papa for an Avatar pic? Whats with you and Off getting religion? BTW, as long as we're "perving" out, check this. Doesn't that just look wrong? OMG!

Yo Don, if not Hayduke (who tossed his empty beer cans right out of his jeep for those who forget), how does ...........wait for it............ THE IMPACTER! roll off the tongue?

OK JUST ADMIT THAT YOU'RE PINK ALREADY AND YOU HIJACKED OLYCLIMBERS GOOD NAME OMG BANZ HIM BANZ HIM!!!!!! ps, still raining hey?

"The study offers “striking evidence” that the right TPJ, located at the brain’s surface above and behind the right ear, is critical for making moral judgments" Mr Stonehead, your new cell phone implant is here, Mr. Stonehead....

JAKE? ....JAKE IS THAT U?

Yup! It's awesome climbing Rob, as fun as anything in the state. There's some serious bullshit there too as you say (nice call), not in a good way at all either: but when it's good, it's unf*ingbelieveably GREAT!!!! BELOW -close up of stepping off that sub-pinnacle you can see in the left in the top pic. I thought I might be able to push off that pinnacle my right foot is on, and I tried to wiggle into the gap between the 2 pinnacles and push with everything I had lower down, but it stayed there so I slung it for pro. I think a car jack would topple it, but I'm leaving it. You can see all my gear below and my anchor tie off in the top pic as well: Don will give me crap for that top picture as I'm caught in the process of leaving my trash behind to rap off, and not climbing with a leave no trace philosophy which he practices. Right Don? You PRACTICE that bullshit your spout don't ya? You don't leave your trash like slings behind on public property or use pitons as they destroy the rock? Right? To my credit, I did solo up that thing there, ground up, no bolts, with sparse natural gear, got lucky and made it to the top. I was too fearful (*cough* scared shitless relieved and feeling lucky* cough*) of downclimbing it, so I left the sling and rappelled. I wish I could be like Don and had the stones to downclimb it so as to have left no trace. Don, it hasn't seen a second ascent yet, it's all natural, no bolts, want to take a shot? I'd love to see if you could downclimb it after your remove my rap sling, that would be fu*king rad and bold sir! RAD AND BOLD! Don, I didn't mean to be the bully on this drill naming thing, was trying to be playful - I probably need to put more smiley faces in my posts. However, as long as we're being serious, I just think that you interjecting yourself all the time where you are not needed is kind of off kilter, like in the conversation we were having on a regular forum thread. See, we were already having a discussion on restricting bolts at a cliff. I was getting crap for supporting a friend who would like to see minimal bolts on the crag, and for the place we were discussing there, I totally agree. What that means in real life is different than on the internet, and the disagreement we had was already laden with unfortunate miscommunication when you showed up with your foot in your mouth trying to cause more. I suspect that if you looked at the cliff in question, you'd be in agreement with what the majority of us want for it. Take a shot at Josephs masterpiece "Hollow Victories" and tell me it shouldn't have a single bolt on it. Without that bolt, it would never be climbed. Suicide perhaps. As it stands with A single bolt, it's not a gimme at all, one needs to bring their "A" game and weave together the complex dynamic of moves and gear pro. It could easily have 9 bolts on it had another done it first. There are those who would still argue for it too. See, I object to those folks who want the 9 bolts, and I object to you. You would say that the route shouldn't exist then, no bolt. Getting to the top to just toprope it would not be easy or taken lightly. More like a mini-expedition. So we might as well stay home and watch tv then. So the questions we are trying to ask ourselves, those of us who live here and climb on this cliff, is what the place is going to look like for the next generation. For the cliff with the pictures here, different place. It's out in the sticks a bit, with some great movement and challenges. Look at the picture below. Are you saying you want to climb that without bolts? There's bolts in the picture above me there, maybe you want to circle them in red or replace them with BLT pics? Go ahead, it will be fun. Find them, this is a close up as I'm 25-30 feet off the deck here. I bought the new drill so that I can have it for another pinnacle project at this very spot. We have a route that goes up 200 feet or so to where the lil XXs are on the right in the picture below. Thats the high point. The picture above with the lil bumps is the start of that pitch up close. We're not too sure how hard that is, probably between 5.8 and 5.10 something I suppose. Anyway, need to head up for another pitch soon to get to the top of that pinnacle on the right you see below. I was going to try it with the tie offs on knob thing, but the knobs break off relatively easy, and a fall could easily be fatal. So I was going to climb up with a tag line, and if I needed it, pull up the new, lighter drill. It's sooooo much lighter. The top picture is the pinnacle on the left with the 00s. The 00s are that rap sling. Seems to me, that not putting in bolts here is fu*king over everyone who follows. It's fun to do a route or 2 where a fall may mean death, the top pic might qualify for some folks, but what's the point of that unless you're trying to show that your penis is bigger than G-spotter thinks? As I already know mine is short, I have nothing to prove, I'll just put in the bolts for everyone else......

Damn I'm afraid to ask what that thing is screwed into.

Exactly Off, because this looks to me to be a way for the gob'ment to support General Gob'ment Motors and Suburban/Tahoe production for years and needless years. I feel for the folks (our lil childrens') on the back end who will be overpaying full value when we needlessly and stupidly run out so much sooner of cheap gas. I suppose it's easier to act, and than think: as opposed to the reverse. I'd given up on Bush/Cheney who supported big oil due to their investment and personal history's: but I had higher hopes for change from Obamas group. ps, I could easily support increased drilling as part of an overall plan that included reduced consumption as well so as to not have to be licking Arab (Canadian, Mexican, and Venzualan as well) sack in the coming years....so fucking sad, stupid and wastefully needless.

By way of thanking him, since Don came over to our personal bolt chopping thread (where I get told I'm an elitist for thinking that a voluntary restriction of bolts at the Far Side is a good thing) LOL. I thought I'd better bring this over here for Don as Ivan, who has intimately caressed and stroked the Lil Dawg himself, already hijacked that chopping thread with some great Yosemite pictures. I already have a "Lil Dawg", named in honor of Raindawg - the perpetual bolt bitcher/complainer/Elmer Gantry Gladys Kravits of CC.com. The "Lil Dawg" has seen lots of publicity and is very famous for it's numerous yet needless gratuitous taunts to Raindawg. Yet this new drill, who will be keeping the Lil Dawg company, is even smaller and perhaps, it may be said: meaner and nastier. Lil Dawg is 9.6 lbs. This lists even smaller and lighter at 6.25 lbs with battery. I've pulled the front handle off and this new one is actually under 6 lbs on the scale!!! 36Volts MORE POWER W00T! It's already done it's first bolts. My special question is this. Don, (or anyone) what should we name this new beast?! Remember to bring out your sharpeye sticks for this christening: ps, as an aside, the road going to that crag Don references below which he has never seen or heard about, is huge, with massive environmental issues and wildlife impacts. They will be spending over 10 million of your Washington Tax dollars this year to straighten out and enlarge @ 2 miles of it, that's $10,000,000 Washington State monopoly money - yet not a peep about that from Don. Please remember that it' can't be called "Lil Dawg", seen below in action, as that's been done. Action pictures of the original "lil Dawg. The Lil Dawgs good side Lil Dawg and friends Scott Peterson drilling the rap anchors on "Child Abuse" with The world famous "Lil Dawg". Lil Dawg taking a nap. ps: S'UP Dawg? Yo yo yo!

Lost cam Brokeback Kenny?

http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2010/03/smith_rock_route_first_kiss_-.html The money shot: Ben and Larry -good guys both.

Especially given the various exclusions and processes that accompany actual drilling. As in, no one will see any oil out of these wells until well into Obamas second term. Few issues strike at the core of our countries power and wealth like this one, yet somehow it evades anything but a piecemeal approach. Cest le vie, anyway, once Barak gets those new Nuclear reactors he's talking about up and running.....

Drill everywhere we can for oil. http://www.breitbart.com/article.php?id=D9EPO6880&show_article=1 This was what George Bush wanted as well, but everyone said he was a douchebag for even thinking it. Here's to hope and change. BTW, this may be left unspoken, but I suspect that the country's critical energy policy, formulated during the Carter years and revised to be all but ignored during the Reagan years, is most likely slated to be finally looked at about 2020 once the well runs dry on big oil and we're all burning the plentiful coal available. The word "CONSERVATION" is still evil for politicians to even think, let alone say, evidently. Meantime, President Bush Obama will lead us down the big car road so we can get rid of that nasty oil as rapidly and cheaply as possible.

The company which makes Aliens: CCH, is for sale. Please contact Nadia Waggoner if you are interested. cchaliens@aol.com Nadia Waggoner production/office manager Colorado Custom Hardware 115 E.Lyon Street Laramie, Wyoming 82072 Malcom of Trango says it won't be him, BTW.

? ? ps, I'm callin bullshit on Rednose being drunk, he nailed it first time and put it in the right thread.

Jim's followed me up probably over 10-15 new routes in the last year (so if we can climb them you know they're easy) and belayed me on a few more he chose not to follow - whereas Kevbone is gonna be old and fat like me if he's not careful, (nudge nudge) I don't see him out as much. Truthfully, all of us would be bad sheriffs I'd suppose. This only looks like ground, it's a notch in a cliff @250' up. Endeavor to Persevere gentlemen!

I'll pass on the face to face unless we're out climbing same time, but in case it wasn't clear enough already, I support whatever Jim says on this. The Far Side ain't "my" place and I don't own it (I wish), but I like it and it's where I go to hang with my buds when its wet, cold and/or Beacon is closed. Neither one of us, nor anyone I know who climbs there, would want to be the rock police either, although if there was an election I'm sure Jim could get elected as "Rock Sheriff" ....or mayor I suppose. -Regards to all.......

This isn't 20 year old news that you're trying to recycle is it? Maybe everyone just assumed it back then....

Glad you guys worked it out. Now we shall soldier on, think it over, and Endeavor to Persevere.

I suspect that it is the closet thing to world class we have here for BMXers. Bicyclists have been offroading for decades around the Butte too. I noticed that the last time the X games came through, @ a year back, after the performance had ended, a couple of trailers showed up (in front of the complaining woman's house no doubt) with a bunch of sick world class riders just having a total ball. These kinds of activities and places are irreplaceable and great for the cities reputation as an outdoor mecca. Maybe they can just move those massive jumps back in the woods a tad along the freeway. I've seen just regular guys launching and doing crazy full back flips on bicycles there. I suspect that having a road for ambulance access may be a mandatory requirement. Hope they don't shut that down.

Serious Suncups! The pic was worth the wait, bet you left yer skis at home or in the car!

Yeah, what Dave says. Mostly it rained here today, you missed it Ivan.

Yes I do: a very good friend of mine did it. I wasn't there when it happened although I think others were, but he has been very well spoken and constant on his position on this issue, and about everyone else is in agreement. He will tell you that he doesn't own it either, but that these things are for future generations. One of the things I really appreciate about him is that more than almost any other person I know, he'll do things for future generations, and make those considerations on even little things and small choices. Very unselfish and not a self-serving person. VERY. As far as bolts go, he does want a aid line up the center, where bolts would intersperse hook moves, again this is for others: so that the next generation of climbers have a place to train for aid and try and get tuned for Yosemite while Beacon is closed. This stuff isn't about "Him and his trip" as he'd say, or "me and my trip", but about all of us, and especially those who will come later when we are gone. Those who know me well know a few things as it relates to this discussion very clearly Kevin. 1st) I am pretty damn lackadaisical about bolts for the most part. LINK Maybe you recognize your words? 2nd) I'm not perfect, sooo far from it in fact. 3nd) I am a fiercely loyal person to my friends. Especially good friends. You might read #3 again as it takes precedence over all else for me in this instance. The fella who chopped them turned me on to that place. I am very appreciative of that. At that time he was very specific of what he wanted for the area and he asked me to buy in. Much of what I put in the opening paragraphs to the route list to the place was either a word for word echo or verbatim from him, and this is what that says: " This place is unique and different from The Ozone. One thing which differentiates it is the restraint of bolts. Although there are a few bolted routes here and there, it could have been possible to put in a bolted route every few feet. Yet it was desired that this area remain like a more traditional climbing area, where folks could learn and practice with gear. This gives the place a different feel than a bolted area, and it's good spot to develop a "lead head" and learn real technical rock climbing. Please help keep it this way for future climbers and restrict the use of bolts. As of today, all the routes on the main cliff to the right of Dwarf Toss to the Eastern trail have been done. Blank faces between the cracks were left as toprope climbs on purpose. There are multiple top ropes and route variations throughout the area, some of which are described and some of which are not. Although this area should not have any “Do Nots”, please DO NOT think that just because there are no bolts stuck in a face, that by putting in bolts you are doing a first ascent and a new route. You are not. It's a small area and nearly every inch that does not have loose rock has been climbed. What you are doing is sticking bolts into an area that was looked at, climbed on, and left alone intentionally (it did not have bolts installed on purpose) by earlier climbers. It was left that way for a specific reason by those many climbers who were here first, often after extensive discussion amongst themselves about it. That means it was left as a toprope climb, on purpose, to try and avoid the gym climbing mentality. If you have just come of of the gym and don't know your head from your ass, here is an ancient, involatile rule to get you started and which all climbers should follow: NEVER PUT BOLTS IN SOMEONE ELSE'S ROUTE WITHOUT THEIR PERMISSION FIRST! If you plan on putting in bolts in opposition and disagreement to what all the previous climbers who have and continue to climb here, despite what they all thought and/or think, then plan on having your “new” bolts quickly removed and your alleged route erased. You may want it to look like the climbing gym, but those who came here before you do not. If the static and unchanging nature of this bothers you, dear reader, the suggestion is that you head back to the nearest gym, where you can screw in new holds and bolts and change the routes to your liking and feelings of the day without bothering others. This place can remain for those who appreciate the deeper and different challenge of natural gear lines, and Ozone for those who seek out bolt clip ups. The one piece of kit all climbers will benefit from carrying here is a small whisk broom. These can often be had for a buck at the dollar tree stores, so get some for you buddies when you're there. If everyone just whisked a bit here and a bit there pretty soon the entire area would be as clean as your kitchen counter....perhaps cleaner." Did you read it all? ...hope that helps you. Remember that although I'm nowhere close to perfect I am one loyal son-of-a-bitch. The text seems clear to me and although some of it doesn't apply, the desire to leave it as a primarily natural gear area does stick out does it not? Again, this was and is my friends most deepest wish for the area. One he is not alone in wishing. Black and white, cut and dried. Know also that my friend is pretty specific that he thinks this internet stuff is total bullshit, and that sitting down and having a fair fist fight (OK, I think he means talk eye to eye: just like we all did on this very issue, the chopper, choppee and myself all did just that yesterday as we were all out there at the same time) is the way to solve these things. So he feels bad that he had to do this - but saw no other alternative. I know everyone wishes that the communication had been better, I sure do, but that's the hand that was dealt. Either what he and others have always wanted for the place remains there - or it wouldn't and a bolted line would get squeeze jobbed in where it shouldn't be. Frankly, I'm doing some new bolted routes at another area that has no cracks and where bolted squeeze jobs will be welcomed. But that a long way away, radically different rock, and necessarily a totally different vibe. I think it's important to recognize that here we are talking only about preserving this location for mostly gear climbs. Plenty of places to bolt routes in the gorge elsewhere, I've enjoyed climbing at some of them myself. So in respect to my old buddy, this is all I have to say on this subject on the internets.

That last bit of pro in that pic or the very first picture tips us off:-) ps, it looks like a human in that first pic, but it would be easy to miss with a cursory glance! W00T! You Dane?