billcoe

Novel idea, kind of like the "Buy Fish (Russ) a beer" thing. https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_flow&SESSION=VRt2DABhq4SLG81o1-3zCLxMCUFMIGAfl6cRoBZ9HuuPoQgwyEHMw6SOpze&dispatch=50a222a57771920b6a3d7b606239e4d529b525e0b7e69bf0224adecfb0124e9b61f737ba21b081983b975b35e10fe14fd9a7167ca5aec13b The date is 2003, wonder if he ever got his car? They're still accepting money. As long as he's so into supporting offshore manufacturing, maybe he should shoot a little higher and get these idiots to pony up for 26 Rolls Royces.

Well, things may be out of control on a local level, but at least the "Progressives" have things well in hand nationally. WHOOPS....nevermind.... http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100723/ap_on_bi_ge/us_budget_deficit_2 "WASHINGTON – New estimates from the White House on Friday predict the budget deficit will reach a record $1.47 trillion this year. The government is borrowing 41 cents of every dollar it spends." Holy shit, couple of zillion trillion more and that's almost real money. jb's childrens children will be working overtime to pay off this debt to the Chinese. I thought it was only the "Regressives" that were borrow and spend? Looks like there's no difference to me. It appears that both Bush and Obama must have their wives do their personal finances. Maybe we can get them elected instead instead of these out of control spenders?

It's been noted that if we took half the money we spend on locking up folks who are only hurting themselves (this isn't the vicious addict hitting an old lady over the head who would still go directly to Jail, would not pass go and would not collect $200), and spent it on REHAB, we would be much further along and that recidivism rates would go down as well. One of the things I repeatedly see in the US is that average joes get to mandate policy as knee jerk reaction, even if they are wrong. Our prison policy should run by scientists with oversight, and not by the uninformed public who just want to lock em all up and toss the key. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but at one point I'd seen the increase in recidivism (those who get out of jail and then re-offend) had risen dramatically because of this California policy change.

NOT! http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100721/od_nm/us_china_beating Chinese police beat official's wife by mistake Wed Jul 21, 1:09 pm ET BEIJING (Reuters) – Plainclothes police severely beat the wife of a provincial official, mistaking her for one of many Chinese who petition government offices in the hope of redressing wrongs, the China Daily reported on Wednesday. The case of mistaken identity has become a hot topic among Chinese Internet users, highlighting the abuse that China's armies of petitioners routinely suffer at the hands of police and hired thugs who wish to silence them. Six public security officers set on Chen Yulian, the wife of a provincial law enforcement officer, last month when she tried to enter her husband's office building, which houses the Hubei provincial party headquarters, the China Daily said. "This incident is a total misunderstanding," the Communist Party chief of the district bureau explained, according the newspaper. "Our police officers never realized that they beat the wife of a senior leader." China's leaders are obsessed with maintaining social stability and "building a harmonious society" has been their chief concern in the recent years. Thousands of petitioners take their grievances to Beijing every day. Many of their complaints stem from land seizures, while others seek redress for lay-offs dating from massive bankruptcies in China's state sector in the 1990s. The men who beat Chen were later identified as public security officers from Wuhan, the provincial capital, who had been assigned to guard the office building and "subdue" petitioners. "A strong wave of fists rained down on her for more than 16 minutes," the report said. Chen was knocked to the ground despite her attempt to explain that her husband worked in the office building. She was then transported to a police station and yelled at when she requested medical attention, according to the paper's account. The attack left her with a concussion, and damaged brain and nerve tissues. Chen was released and sent to hospital after she reached her husband by phone, and ranking police officers apologized profusely. "Does this mean the police are not supposed to beat leaders' wives, but the ordinary people can be battered?" the China Daily quoted an anonymous visitor to Chen's ward as saying. (Reporting by Beijing Newsroom; Editing by Lucy Hornby and Ken Wills)" Opps.

I finally got up there and climbed last night. It was as bad as I've ever climbed - whatever the reverse of flow is, but I didn't see any signs that said no climbing anywhere. When did they take them down, or was it a joke?

It's been done. Kurt Vonnegut: Player Piano. Great work too and it seems to coming to fruition 50 years after he wrote it. .

Great read, thanks for the link! However, regarding this part of the story: " The racists remain his adversary every day, even in the village clinic where Jim works and where we later talked about eugenics. “We think that’s history,” he said, “but what’s the trickle-down? In this building there is very free and easy access to birth control. Any type of birth control you can imagine, and if you still find yourself pregnant, there is free abortion. There’s no polite way to say it—to cut down on breeding. It’s not just accessible, it’s promoted. Kill your baby. And when you talk about values changing, when you no longer see your children as a blessing, that is some really bad stuff.”" It's an interesting viewpoint as many pregger women, pre-abortion, didn't see the value of children as well, yet I remember before Roe V Wade, rich women who wanted to not carry a baby to term merely flew over and back to a country that had abortion. Poor women were literally screwed. As far as that goes, I bet a study of class/money and abortions would show a similar trend today, regardless of race.

That's the one ! Perdicaris alive or Raisuli dead!!! He said. In the end they just shut the hell up and paid the ransom, and the public, thinking the big stick had won the day, went happy with crazed madness. How could you not vote for the man? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ion_Perdicaris Oh I'm pretty sure he'd get both Jasmine and I Doug although her parents were pretty clear that by marrying a white guy she was actually marrying down and weakening their race! LOL! They tried to be nice about it at least. I really hadn't thought about it till then, imagine that, lived together for 4 years and finally get a wake up call from your in-laws to be that your wife to be is another race. Once the first grandchild got here they started being color blind and accepted me into the family, that's what unconditional love will do for you I suppose.

Back when the Hydra that was Standard Oil was forming under John D Rockefeller's tutelage, Government, let by trustbuster Teddy Roosevelt, let the charge to change it, reduce it and force competition. John D wasn't aware of the extent that these people needed donations and the motivations thereof and he was relatively politically unmotivated until after the breakup. This is totally at odds and with different rules of engagement with how current large corporations operate. When the current Hydra-like big Government has grown too monopolistic and omniscient and all powerful, what can you do? Where is Teddy? That they can take a billion here and a billion there or only $100,000,000 of our money and so gracefully toss it to Blackwater to make it disappear is as disconcerting on the Government side to me as the reverse. I don't doubt that we as a country see some good come of it, but the size and role of government is the real concern. Who is really watchdogging any of this hidden invisible to citizen's stuff? I remember reading that the military had 28,000 hires who's sole job it was was to work on publicity so that folks the world over think good thoughts of us. Holy crap! 28,000 people! That did not include contractors hired to do the same.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100722/ap_on_re_la_am_ca/lt_drug_war_mexico Fortunately, Mexico has strict gun control laws, so they got them out of the hands of honest Mexicans and only the criminals and the police are armed (often they are samesame over there). Looks like the town is tied up in knots. Thu Jul 22, 11:13 am ET NUEVO LAREDO, Mexico – Late-night gunbattles with gangs who forced citizens from their cars and used the vehicles to block streets paralyzed a border city, sound of gunfire alarmed Texans on the U.S. side of the Rio Grande. The Nuevo Laredo city government posted messages on Facebook warning citizens to stay indoors as the battles erupted at several intersections in the city across from Laredo, Texas. Frightened people on the U.S. side of the border called emergency dispatchers after hearing the gunfire, Laredo police spokesman Joe Baeza said Thursday. But he said there was no spillover violence. "We were getting reports from people who live on the river's edge that they could hear gunfire and explosions from the Mexico side," Baeza said. "We didn't have any incidents on the American side. It's hard for people to understand who don't live here," he added. "They're not Vikings, they're not going to invade us, it doesn't work that way." Nuevo Laredo city officials said they could not immediately confirm witness reports that several gunmen were killed. Gangs used stolen cars and buses to block several main avenues in the city across from Laredo, Texas. Several residents called local newspapers to report thefts. "For your security, stay in your homes until the alert has passed," the city government wrote on Facebook. When the violence subsided, the government urged citizens to come forward and reclaim their stolen vehicles. Nuevo Laredo is among several northern cities under siege from a turf battle between the Gulf cartel and its former enforcers, the Zetas gang of hit men. Violence has surged along the northeastern border with the United States since the two gangs split earlier this year. Gangs have frequently blocked streets in the middle of the cities to thwart soldiers coming to the aid of colleagues under fire. In the northern state of Chihuahua, a banner appeared on a bridge threatening violence against "innocents" unless the state government fires its chief of police intelligence, Fernando Ornelas, the Diario de Juarez newspaper reported Thursday. The banner appeared in the state capital, also called Chihuahua. Last week, drug gangs introduced a new threat to Mexico's drug war, detonating their first successful car bomb. The attack killed a federal police officer and two others in Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua's largest city.

He says from LaGrande he's going up hwy 82 towards Enterprise and NOT continuing on the freeway to Idaho, the Elkhorn detour is the other way for him then and would add well over a hundred miles wouldn't it? He's going to Montana, and theres lots of Granite he could find there that is much nicer than anything in the Elkhorns. (Boulder Batholith, Whisky Gulch) You really think it's worth the extra drive time to head up and back to Lagrande for him? It's not like he's heading to a slug infested wetlands devoid of good rock like if he was heading the opposite direction. LOL!

http://www.startribune.com/nation/98965919.html Holy crap, sounds like one of them was blown clean off the mountain. Crazy scary stuff, hope that the last person gets found and rescued off.

I think the Anthony lakes choice would be #1, except that it's way out of your way. If it was me, I'd probably hike up the Lostine till I got tired, and just hang out in the wilderness for a day trip. Probably take my rock shoes and a day pack with lunch is all. I've never done Sac in the summer but I suspect it would be boring as hell, in the winter/spring the North side can be fawking awesome with some kick assed ice and snow with some rock pro available. Where's all the dudes from Lagrande these days? Maybe they should check in and spray on this.

Well you'd be real freaked to start with when Ivan pulls out the rope with a core shot and you are expected to just ignore the white patch and rap 600' off the deck then as well I'd bet LOL!

Can we see a picture? Mine are looking sort of trashed now - maybe I need more.

DAAAAAHHHH BEACOOOONNNNN!

I thought that Black diamond had test some of those old biners but couldn't find it. Found this re: "MICROFRACTURES" From http://www.onrope1.com/Myth1.htm "Myth #1: You should replace a dropped carabiner because of undetectable "Micro-Fractures". This is the biggest myth we know of, and was probably created by unscrupulous salesmen to get you to buy more carabiners. CarabineerTruth: In a test by Steve Nagode, an engineer at the REI quality assurance laboratory, 30 carabiner bodies (half ovals, half D’s) were each dropped six times onto a concrete floor from a height of 33 feet. Following the drops, their open-gate strength was measured and compared to 30 control samples from the same production batch and which had not been dropped. The statistical result showed "no loss of strength.” Inspect any piece of dropped equipment carefully, checking for proper function. Cast metal products are most vulnerable to damage, fractures and cracks. To my personal knowledge, this happened once to a gray cast metal Jumar ascender in the 1970's. To my extensive knowledge: Drop forged carabiners (and similar gear) have not exhibited this problem. Note: OEM Petzl says: 1mm of wear or gouge is serious enough wear or damage to require replacement. -and- BD Worn biner tests: http://web3.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php#040606

nah, maybe...Sarah Palin Hawt.... Is that hawt?

Of course, elsewhere it may be a different matter...

I defer all my bolting questions to Jim. Then I would start asking others.

My understanding that that was suppose to be taken up by the swing shift... ...they might be unionized so perhaps they took a safety break before they even started and ever got to it!?

sick Remember the good old days when Porter was always posting the "rate my poo" pictures? What ever happened to them, the site went off line?

Straighten these guys out Kevin!

Yup! One of many Paul. I'm drinking wine and packing right now for a solo tomorrow. Salethe = Salathe - got missed by the spel checkur. The bros renamed the place Coethedral too, so unless someone did a search of Cathedral - it's buried. I'm having a hard time calling it the new name, I like it, but my mind is not shifting gears quickly:-) ps, how about that corn post? Got the Rooster all hot and bothered. No one else gives a shit! Hah hah! _________________________________________________________ Retro edit re: your post immediately below - The Rooster has got to be Porter:-) It should be fine, but thanks! If I do git myself kilt, at least these shitty-assed pictures and retroposts will finally stop! LOL! ________________________________________________________ One more edit -earlier, the Tappets and I played hookey, took off Thursday and went up to play. Finished the last 100'+ or so of Gratitude to the rim with Geoff leading the FA. Here's some pics of that day. Geoff marking the bolts for P2 of Gratitude Back on Terra Firma - Geoff leading while Kyle Belays him on Coecoenut Bridge Kyle on rappel with the Old Witch Pinnacle as a back drop. BTW, the solo (new route) yesterday kicked ass, but carrying all the other crap you need for bolting (drill, bits, hammer, etc etc) filled up my backpack to the point where I barely could fasten the lid down. It was staggeringly heavy to carry that shit up and rap in with it. I installed 29 big-assed 1/2" x 7" long stainless steel bolts (like this) and 2 rappel anchors (so carried up 4 Fixe anchors ass well) (These) Climbing, while tired, cramping, having dust blow into your eyes while trying to stay stanced and toss some shit off your next handhold that you missed when you had just TRed it is just as bad. Damn it just makes me feel old. There's still some loose stuff and poor clips that need hammering, my arms were both cramping and barely able to hold a hammer so I polished off my water and went home and said "Fawk it", let someone else clean it.....I am such a wuss. Pulled a muscle wrestling the pack out of the car, tore one of my fingernails partially off (it hurts like hell to just type), both hands are barely able to close the finger from the arthritic thing flaring up from beating the hell out of them, every muscle is sore and I burned the inside of my upper arm with the drill bit. I think I might have actually heard a sizzling sound, it's all marked up where the blister broke and the blood dried and there's now a red infection ring around the scab....Sigh.....a wuss I say..... Update: talked to Ujahn about the bolts I'd put in in Pitch 2 of The Dragons Spine earlier and how I had resisted the temptation as detailed above. He said he'd have given my permission (I knew he would) that he had literally sunk into a pit of extreme sickness and couldn't had gone out then no matter what, but that NOW he has the roof torn off his house and needs to get it back on- and thus can't go finish the pitch this weekend. He says it's my lead when we do though finally get out there.......Said it was OK to go solo the 2nd pitch of Ujahns Delight though! Woot! When I was up there with Tappetts we left our extra bolts like 200' off the deck, so I don't have to haul as many in there! Extra Woot! Ujahns delight could finish right where those bolts are if I so choose. Hey Dwayner, the bolt count is over 300 now and going UP! In fact, 354 1/2 x 6-1/4 and 7" long stainless wedge anchors, and 40 Fixe SS Carabiner style anchors. (20 rap points.