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Everything posted by snoboy
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80 cents / Litre, sounds about right...
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Aparently urine is actuallty really bad for your ropes. the link that fern posted (referenced above) is probably where I learnt that, but I am too lazy too check. In the respect that it doesn't do much for the smell (and feel- yuck), it is really bad, other than that, I doubt it. Really, I guess you were too lazy too read the link too Here it is in all it's glory:
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Aparently urine is actuallty really bad for your ropes. the link that fern posted (referenced above) is probably where I learnt that, but I am too lazy too check.
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I don't know that anyone said it has anything to do with breathability. Your base layer shirt plays a role for sure, this is just a second layer. I find that it is adaptable enough that I never worry about it being too much layer or not enough. I just put it on. If it is too warm, I take it off. If you had two layers, they would probably end up weighing more coz of duplication of zippers etc.
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Come on up, I think we should have a camera and a telephoto lens in the Smoke Bluffs lot...
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who cares. Second that. Have a pissing fight via PM, you two are taxing everyone's patience. Third strike - you're out! Go have your pissing match by PM and just let us know who won!
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I was playing around with the B-52 today, and may have discovered a bad design flaw that could allow you to drop a second when using the autoblock mode. We are going to investigate further, including some body weight tests, and video/pics if required. Basically the problem is that the braking biner can get stuck above the "bump" on the bottom of the unit, and fail to lock. We were able to reliably duplicate this behaviour with a couple different ropes, and biners, but only while pulling on the rope, ie, not with full weight. There was still enough friction that you would probably be able to stop a person if you were holding the brake end of the rope
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now look at that knee, and tell me its not kneebarring!!!!! DRU IS ALWAYS CORRECT! I'm looking, I don't think that's a kneebar. We'll have to ask a rad sporto though.
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At least when you live here you can leave the gear at home... not in the car.
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Let's keep discussion post here I was playing around with the B-52 today, and may have discovered a bad design flaw that could allow you to drop a second when using the autoblock mode. We are going to investigate further, including some body weight tests, and video/pics if required. Basically the problem is that the braking biner can get stuck above the "bump" on the bottom of the unit, and fail to lock. We were able to reliably duplicate this behaviour with a couple different ropes, and biners, but only while pulling on the rope, ie, not with full weight. There was still enough friction that you would probably be able to stop a person if you were holding the brake end of the rope
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Less caves? :shrug:
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3 points 1) All the rappell racks I have looked at (Petzl and ???) have aluminum bars... 2) I thnk that steel is harder than Aluminum (duh! ) which might make for less friction than aluminum devices. 3) How about a Gri Gri? It has a larger surface area that the rope runs on, possibly decreasing the rate of wear. It might not help with the dirt problem on your ropes and hands, but you wouldn't be burning up your biner. A friend of mine uses his for cleaning routes quite extensively, and his has lasted years of use on gritty wet tropes.
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Dri-Clime windshirt = down jacket for the summer. I wear mine all the time, it
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Posted this elsewhere, but it seems appropriate... TR Self Belay ideas
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The Reverso, as with all plaquette style devices, can be used as an ascender. Ascenders can be used for TR soloing. However, I doubt the Reverso will feed well enough for the purpose.
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How can you rig an ATC or a Reverso without taking it off the biner, but not a B-52?
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Of course it's patriotic, jon, you're a whining liberal fuck who deserves to be cut off at any opportunity!
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Hmmm, I feel that my B-52 is smoother than the Reverso. The Reverso also requires an extra locker...
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American Medical Group Association I think you meant .com But I can't find it there either, unless you mean he should take a course??? Stephen, it's not in the instructions. Get someone to show you.
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From other people's experience, I would have to disagree slightly with you hear Stephen. The Reverso has this wear problem that you mention, but it is not only when you use it in High Friction mode. It wears badly even in normal rappel mode, and none too slowly either. I had one friend wear his out in a month of regular use.
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Opinions? I got a few of those! ATC = Pryamid = Revreso = B-52 = Having used a Pyramid for years, and a Reverso occasionaly, I recently tried out the B-52 and was so impressed I sold the Pyramid, and will get rid of the Reverso too. It feeds smoother than any device I have tried. It locks up nicely when it is time. It works as an autolock plate on multi pitch. It is lighter than the Reverso. I would even reccomend it to someone who will never use it in autolock mode, something I would never do with the Reverso. It is the all purpose unit!
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Maybe they can jib off some of those frozen corpses on the way down
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Climb lots. Climb some more... Do enchainments. Like Diedre and Banana Peel and Sparrow. Learn to french free. Get your systems dialed. You should be able to swap leads in no time flat. Go climb some steep snow, learn to self arrest and glissade. Go somewhere scary and deal with it. Get out and do lots of 3rd and 4th class routes in the beginning of the summer. The ability to move quickly and safely over that sort of terrain will serve you well in the Bugs. The hike in is a mental challenge. Your pack will be too heavy. Buy the new guidebook and start dreaming.