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snoboy

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Everything posted by snoboy

  1. Werd chucK. Sounds to me like erik had it all figured out a couple of years ago...
  2. No. I just looked at the guide. It's right next to (or is?) "clean starts". That would be Clean Starts... I did the first recorded TR-bowline on a coil-Chaco Sandal ascent of that a few days ago. Really. There's a new route to the right of it now too. Also a new ptch to the right of Neat and Clean that ends with a cool mantle move.
  3. roped up and ready to Partay! I think the issue is that some people don't see the need to do a bunch of shit. They figure we could have a party if we all end up in the same campground on the same w/e. Then again maybe we aren't that organized. I'm sure the 9-5ers feel more need to be fringe than the rest of us. At least to pretend, relief from real life and all that you know... Props to Beck for his work, but maybe he is doing more than he needs to???
  4. I didn't reealize it was gonna be THAT kind of party!!!!!!!!
  5. I thought the free beer thing was handled no prob last fall, from what I heard...
  6. Apparently this isn't such a big deal... Just read an article about inbreeding in the latest issuue of Discover" magazine.
  7. There's some gear if you look hard enough.
  8. Not really, he's kinda short though... Hmmm. chucK - no worries really, it's just the Burgers and Fries and Neat & Cool areas that are an issue for the early/late thing. The intent is to reduce noise and shit, so a quiet soloist probably isn't going to raise much stink anyway. Kangaroo Corner??? Because the landowner wants it to be. It will be re-opening again this summer, under an agreement between the landowner and the Squamish Rockclimber's Association, as soon as there is a new trail built, and anchors installed just below the edge, both of which will be happening soon hopefully. In the mean time, it would be good if everyone stayed away. Climbing therre now may jeapordize future access. (the landowner is not climber friendly!!) I think this may be TLG's fave route in the Bluffs! 5kN is almost impossible to generate in a top rope set up. i whipped on mine a bunch of times tring stuff with no damage. I can generate over 2kN just bounce testing gear. (That is to say I can rip stitches out of a screamer.) The fashion with some knuckleheads here is to clip into the Ushba with a 60 cm sling to increase the "exposure" and to make downclimbing easier. If they were to whip onto that near the top of a climb (ie not much rope to absorb force) I would bet they are getting pretty near the 5kN number. That said, I have never heard of one failing in use.
  9. snoboy

    chatter

    The chat server is sitting in Phoenix AZ, no wonder it's slow these days, it must be near meltdown there!
  10. we've got lots here, don't bother for Squish.
  11. I've heard good and bad about the Arc'teryx NoZone. I'm getting one, so I will weigh in on it in a few months...
  12. I think it is an excellent idea... except I would rather have them using one they are familiar with. The other thing I like the idea of swapping is the shovel, especialluy if they have one of those dinky plastic ones.
  13. Sorry cj, I was wrong, cost isn't quite $300, but it is close to 40% markup, and that means the shop isn't making any money really... Thanks for pointing that out. Pretty cheap compared to all the rest of the gear needed for touring anyway, the "It's too expensive argueme t doesn't really cut it with me."
  14. Whole different question... No idea. I have wondered the same. I would guess some of the cost comes out of liability insurance and CE/ISO/whatever certification groups that are required. Volume is probably an issue too. Also probably higher than average QC costs... at least one would hope that to be the case. This is all pure speculation.
  15. snoboy

    pleiades

    Off Topic trivia... Pleiades, also known as the "Seven Sisters" is the same constellation known as Subaru in Japan, and the basis for the logo...
  16. Grrrr. Stupid Job!!!!!! to you guys though...
  17. that won't be sent!
  18. There's irony here somewhere, I just know it.
  19. You and me babe... you and me. out:
  20. Now that's just asking for irrelevant replies...
  21. a few reasons probably... First of all, shops don't really make any money on them in the first place. Cost is pretty close to $300. There isn't a whole lot of change from year to year, so the "old" models will sell next year, and they don't take a whole lot of space in the stock room.
  22. Dude's OK, cracked up his knees basically. The Prow is a popular spot to jump from.
  23. snoboy

    spotter boy?

    I think it might be just that... His sidekick can be Spotter, preferably with ADD.
  24. Let me know when you'll be here. I could be into a little boulder action! I can bring three pads too, so I am useful.
  25. Freesole, or Seam Grip, any urethane based adhesive will work. The stuff in the 5.10 kits is usually Barge Cement. Good for gluing stuff together, but not great for filling holes.
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