skykilo

RuMR: What if he just doesn't give a rat's ass about 5.14 climbing? That may be an option...

A word from Cpt. Caveman

Why does anything have to be civil?

I wouldn't rat on anyone to 'authorities' for anything short of rape or murder. Now, all apologies to everyone for getting off topic, but... Stefan: I disagree. I can't count the number of times I've bushwhacked through some super fucked up brush in second growth. Old growth is always better (more open). We would have almost nothing but old growth if not for timber co.'s, right? I know, I know, the roads that give us access were put there for the timber companies...

Phil, What are you doing posting pictures of the 'secret stash'? Silverton eat your heart out!!!

Guilty as charged. Nevertheless, I think we still need a rerun of a certain picture in this case!

Dynafit Comforts good. You'll hear stuff about being a big guy, and you can't ski them aggressively, and yadda yadda yadda, but it's BS. They are super light, and they work. Get 'em with brakes. Fritschis are also good for no-brainer entry and exit, and a classic binding feel. Maybe wait to buy until you know what you want to do. Will you want to approach climbs and not really care about ski performance? Will you want to approach climbs sometimes, and rip it up on the same gear at other times? Will you want to ski Thermogenesis? (Who doesn't? ) Learn what kind of skiing you want to do. Don't buy skis until you can make turns and have some idea of what kind of turns interest you. If you'll want to ski resorts on this hypothetical AT setup, I highly recommend some high performance, 4-buckle boots. I have really enjoyed Garmonts. Scarpa makes high performance AT boots, too, but Garmont makes the only high performance, Dynafit-compatible AT boots of which I know. AT skis can be rented, and sometimes borrowed. I actually have a pair of skis I could loan you that have Fritschis which would work for your gargantuan feet, but you might have to buy me some pitchers for the wear a heavy n00b would put on the beloved Big Stix.

Collapsing wave functions are a paradox based on flawed interpretations of the beautiful, powerful formalism that is quantum mechanics. Schrodinger's cat is for FUCKTARDS. Bad style!!!

This thread is so good I almost wish I didn't go to Castle Rock yesterday. Actually, it doesn't, but good laughs, fucktards!!!

Yeah. And let's start a thread to flame Reinhold Messner. I mean, soloing 8k meter peaks with no 02? What a whack job fuckin' idiot. Bad style. Boo to you, yeti chaser...

A succinct description of alpine adventure. Uncertainty is key. Self-reliance is a must. Get scared, get cold, and have a great time!

I've been noticing a LOT of stoke and love in the freshiezone lately, so on that note I thought I would post these pictures I finally scanned. To me, these represent the paragon of summer glisse bliss. Enjoy. Now that's a quality midsummer ski descent. In the words of a man with a great voice, whom I'd not trust with my children, "I believe I can fly." Ahh yeah. It'll probably be 'in' already after these storms clear out. Here's to the endless ski mountaineering opportunities in the northwest...

That's right. I spent two days doing fun, moderate alpine rock climbs this weekend. Then doing something a little more cardio and carving some creamy corn on Monday was as sweet as it could ever be. It's ALL good...

All right Paul, yeah boyee!!! That's a helluva cherry on top of the Tooth and some fun on WaPass granite. I'm super-stoked... Rob, I'm pretty sure I shared some raps with your friends on SEWS. And Cluck, were you in the two parties of two from P-town on the Beckey Route? Did I offer you chips on the summit?

Goddess

Beer good.

Ross getting psyched for the chimney Ross in the chimney Justin and Ross on the summit, with Despair, Degenhardt, the Pyramid, and Shuksan in the background

Here are some pictures. The Southern Pickets, L->R is the Chopping Block, Degenhardt, the Pyramid, Inspiration, and McMillan Spires. Ross climbing off the glacier before we get the ropes Ross leading a pitch to get to the huge ramp Ross following the first pitch of the gash

We camped at the end of the old logging road, right next to where the climber's trail heads up toward the ridge. How was the West Ridge of West McMillan? (That's what you climbed, right?) I got some sweet photos, I'll try to scan some tonight and post them tomorrow.

Climb: Inspiration Peak-South Face Date of Climb: 8/14/2004 Trip Report: Justin, Ross, and I climbed Inspiration Peak by the S Face Saturday. We left Seattle too late and were stuck in torpid traffic until Marysville. Justin stopped there and some lady in a truck was nice enough to back into the front of his car while we were getting gas. Beware Friday the 13th in Marysville. All the traffic delayed our arrival at the Goodell Creek TH until 7 pm or so. We had almost enough light to hike to the nice camp sites at the end of the trail without head torches. We started the trail up the ridge just before first light, around 5 am. The climber's path is good, but the distance is longer than the Terror Creek approach. Justin and I had stupidly forgotten crampons, but we managed our way up Terror Glacier somehow. It's a bit broken, and a more impressive glacier than I thought it would be, but very easy with crampons for sure. We got on the face at the lowest point where it meets the glacier. We scrambled a couple hundred feet of 4th class with a couple sections of easy 5th. From a ledge where the highest moat meets the south face, Ross lead a slightly awkward chimney pitch to the major ramp that leads up the south face. We simul-climbed a couple hundred feet of 4th class with Justin and I both leading a rope and Ross trailing. Then I lead up another couple hundred feet of 4th and easy 5th until I made a belay a very short pitch below the beginning of the great gash. Ross lead to a good belay at the beginning of the gash. I lead the first pitch, which featured spectacular face moves and stemming on a very exposed ledge below the overhanging bulge of the gash. There was a perfect belay with enough room for all three of us just before reaching the end of 30m of rope. Justin lead the next pitch, which featured more face moves with the pro a little scarce in a spot or two. Once again there was a perfect belay around 100 ft. This left Ross with the pretty chimney pitch that exits to the West Ridge. I got some cool pictures of him leading up the chimney with the overhanging summit block in view. The chimney pitch was exceptionally fun for all of us with sleeping pads on our backs. It was nice how the climb allowed each of us to lead one of the really interesting pitches of the gash. From where the chimney pitch meets the West Ridge it was one easy move and some 4th class to the summit. It was 6 pm. The views were hella cool. We were uneasy about the apparent rain down McMillan Creek, as we had been uneasy about thunder and rain to our south while on the face. We made four rappels down the West Ridge, then a bit of downclimbing to a sketchy rappel down the South Face. Five more rappels, including one in which shenanigans ensued after someone forgot to untie the end of the rope before pulling on it, and it was dark; we were a couple hundred feet above the glacier. Ross and I agreed that the glacier was no place to go in the dark, despite the fact that we were all out of water. We settled for the night. I made proud use of my Jagermeister and Rasta bivy kit. There was a shower or two, but we were grateful for the generally dry night without wind. Sunday morning we rappelled twice more. Justin and I had mad fun working our way down an icy, crevassed section through a couple bridges without 'poons. Ross talked a lot less shit than I would have, had the situation been reversed. Oh well, his bad. And now for a quote from Yvon Chouinard's Climbing Ice: "There are many situations when you could be caught, whether by method or madness, without crampons when they could be useful." Here's to madness... The hike to the car was long and my feet hurt like hell. Now I remember why I never wear those boots.

That's right, I dropped 'em somewhere. They're probably already trashed or buried in choss, but just maybe they're perched nicely somewhere in that field of scree. I really don't have much hope to get them back, but if you find them:

It goes to... glassbonghits!!! Whoever you are, thanks for the laughs. Way better than catturdeat.

Ummm... I'm almost out of server space so I just stuck the photo there. Looks like I had ya going!

Kudos to the new avatar!!!