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Some clarification needed. We attempted to go straight up from the first CH belay via the fat crack. However, there is a 1 ton loose flake that was moving a bit and made me pucker. So instead we traversed a couple feet right under the triangle roof and went up a 1/2 inch crack via aid for 20' and were then able to free our way back into the fatty. It goes free from there. A competant party could probably do this without aiders. I frenched on follow. However a single aider for the leader is handy. On another note, I would like to say that Jess and I appreciate the encouragement. Jess has also had his first hit on the crack pipe and discovered the addiction of FA's. Joe .

Added a couple new pitches to Chimney Rock yesterday with Jess Roskelley. From the top of the first belay on Cooper Hiser there is an large OW crack that runs up for a 100'. I've been eyeballing it for years and finally had to do it. Details.... Get to the top of the first pitch of CH however you like. From the belay skirt the small roof on the right and follow the thin crack for about 20'. We aided this. There are two fixed lost arrows now. One right above the belay and one at the top of the aid. Jess started free climbing at the second LA. He went for about 70' up 5" crack with decent gear and awkward moves. When the crack widens to about 8" Jess placed a KB on the right. OW technique and a 6 camalot got him through the difficulties ahead. This pitch was probably about 5.9. and A1. Belay on large blocky ledge. Next pitch I encountered a flared hand crack,5.10. Go straight up then dogleg right and back left. After about 50' you will end up on the old CH finish. We decided to call it Expanding Horizons 5.10 A1. I'm sure someone could free the first 20' but it is too much for me right now. Go Get It. Gear 00 TCU to 5 and 6 Camalot.

My partner and I did the Stanley Burgner as a linkup with the Serpentine on 07/18. I have both of your cams. PM me an address and I will ship them to you. Joe

Anyone for a trip up the Lion Tamer on July 25th? Day trip. I'll drive. Joe

Thanks.

thanks

Great looking route. Where did you find the topo? Linky? Thanks Joe

Nice work. I have been dying to get up there and it just hasn't worked out. Super Stoked!! Joe

Which direction does the upper town wall face? Is it East. When does it get shade? Thanks, Joe

Anyone up for doing two chill routes on SCW on June 6 or 7 like Outer Space, Orbit, or MJD? Have rack and happy to lead any or all pitches. Would be psyched to swing leads too. Joe

Who's up for some rock climbing on 5/6 or 5/7. Prefer Trad but sport OK too. Looking to do a bunch of routes. Anyone motivated?

I prefer a single rope/tag line whenever possible because it makes rope management much simpler. I don't break the tag line out until it is time to rap. Also, skinny ropes love to tangle with themselves and everyone else. My tag line is a 7mm x 70M PMI. Cost me about $85 at Mountain Gear.

Castle would be fun. The desert is about an hour fifteen shorter. Thanks though.

Weather looks awesome. Need a partner for one of the above days. Joe 208 755 9008

Thanks for the info.

Looks like the first bolt, number one of two, was removed some time ago on Shrinking Ball Disease in Vantage. Anyone know why or if the remover planned on replacing it? Thanks, Joe

I'm gonna be out there tomorrow. Trad, Sport, TR, Whatever. You wanna do routes? I'm your guy. Should be there by 0930. Looking to get some mileage. Call or PM before 0700 tomorrow. Leaving from CDA Idaho. Joe 208-755-9008

Trip: Canada - Guinness, Guinness Stout, Murchison, Twisted Date: 3/19/2011 Trip Report: Greatest Hits B side. Jason Baker aka Skatan and I headed to Canada to get some more ice done before I get distracted by warm spring rock climbs. Fortunately it has not been warm or dry in N Idaho so it was easy to go to Canada. Day One. Guinness and Guinness Stout. Jason had never been on Guinness and I had never done Guinness Stout so it seemed like a good way to get rolling. Pitch 1 of Guinness is a little bony right now, but the rest is fat. Guinness Stout had a trail beat in which made the hike tolerable. We skirted the two short steps and just did the 35M upper curtain. It was pumpy. Jason finishes it up here. Day Two. Murchison. The one that got away. I had some bad memories of my last attempt on Murchison plaguing me so I was pretty whiny on the approach. My previous attempt was foiled by shitty ice, postholing, and a wounded flask. This time was much different. Nice trail. Excellent ice, easy for the grade. Spectacular scenary finish. After soloing the first 40 M we were able to do this in a 70 M and 75 M pair of pitches. Day Three. Twisted. It was formed up as a mostly ice line. Very little mixed climbing required. Photos don't do it justice. First pitch 30 M WI 3 to fixed belay. Our second pitch went up the ice for 50 M. Then a 40 M WI 4 finish. The second pitch was pretty bongy. Might not be around much longer. Twisted is on the Left. Glan Managerie is on the right. Tons of fun. Good Partner. Bring on Spring!! Approach Notes: Follow the trails.

Rebel Yell, Chianti NEB Goode Anything in Darrington, never been there! More new routes in the Idaho Selkirks Bugaboos Squamish Haven't been there either. Maybe pair that up with Dtown. ALWAYS NEED PARTNERS. Shokes, you out there?

Good Work.

Rob, I am not sure what point you are trying to make. Granted I don't know of any studies but I am going to assume that most people are in favor of even the simplest of regulations for many things. For example. No pissing in the well. Many people could get behind something like that. Possibly even the personal freedom types. As far as nukes go i have to agree with you. I draw the line at personal nuclear weaponry. It is a poor tactical decision to use one on your own government or anywhere near yourself or others if you have any interest in sticking around. Who knows, Maybe if the technology gets better and the price becomes more affordable I could add one to my personal protection arsenal. Sporting is an excellent use for firearms and a nice way to enjoy being out from in front of the keyboard or tv. However, Defense against tyranny of all sizes is a legitimate reason to bear arms. I do believe it is a last resort. India and Egypt have shown us how it can be handled peacefully. Rob, If we your all or nothing reasoning to our everday life then we could be faced with dilemmas like.... No more drivers licensing OR as soon as your born you get a license. Legalize and de regulate ALL drugs or Ban all drugs. No in between. Kiss your ibuprofen goodbye.

what if what if what if. You guys are boring. Accidents with firearms are tragic and sad. Poor training and supervision are to blame. If someone wants to kill you without a gun they will get it done. Violence is the issue. Look at how people are getting offed in the UK lately. Gang knife attacks that are successful. This is NOT one knife attack. Multiple knives, multiple attackers. GREAT SUCCESS!! But, the beat goes on. Blah, blah, blah. Do you believe that the second amendment exists because our founding fathers were sportsmen? They had recently revolted against a tyranical government. Now, I am a practical fellow. I believe fully auto weapons should be VERY HARD to acquire. I also am not super psyched about these militia types that hang around our areas. However, I am taking personal responsibility for my own training and own defense. I have acquired self defense training and I own guns. I take great care to avoid being vulnerable but, I also know that there are times when certain tools or training could become necessary. Like the previous seatbelt argument stated. Every once in a while someone survives some horrendous accident unbelted. However, I am not that guy. In fact, I am not as lucky as that guy. I will provide for my own safety now by wearing a seatbelt. I am also inclined take care of myself if I should end up in a bad situation. I choose to wear a seatbelt. Wear a Helmet. Stay out of harm's way. Pack some personal protection.

Carlsberg was the most technical of the weekend and was predominantly hooking. Weeping Right was the steepest and hardest to protect. Professors was HUGE. Unbelievable. Definitely a bit of a "Greatest Hits" weekend. Can't wait for some warm March Ice.

Nice Work Fellas.

I recently had the opportunity to take a short fall, about 6 feet total, onto a 13cm Grivel Helix placed in the top of an approximately 2 foot diameter free hanging icicle. I was only 20 feet up and I was trying to get off the little cicle and onto a larger one. I was using a single 9.1 rope. In this situation I felt the screamer was a great idea....and it did its job. I put screamers on all screw placements that are not good. So, basically if the screw is pushing out shavings or a nice ice plug for most of its length then I could go with a regular draw. If it is doing less than that I screamer it. I have six screamers total and that gets me through most routes. I have witnessed a lead fall onto a 22cm screw in bad ice that had a regular draw on it. To my surprise it held. Go buy screamers. They are cheap insurance.