Weekend_Climberz

I meant "Late for Dinner", it's just to the left on the steep face.

We should do that on Thursday and then top rope "late for dinner". Rad has done that like 3 times now on lead and he makes it look easy.

Hey, and even if it turns out lame you can always go party at Ocktober Fest in Leavenworth instead.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6805063692754011230

Nice line. Looks like there some other stuff up there too.

I'm on for Thursday, and I think Alex was planning on that too. Bring your lunch money

Sweet dudes! Yo, gonna get some this weekend

Anyone use these yet? They're not even listed on the BD website, but they are selling them at mountaingear.com. Pretty cheap, thinking about these or the X-monsters for my new setup this winter.

Schweet photos. Canada is looking better and better.

Is that the big fat one with all the advertising in it? Kind of lame, but not the worst I've seen.

Nice climb, I wish I would have chose to climb this weekend. Chossy gullies suck

Probably a rarely done route, nice tag.

Another way would be to get a tuning fork. Whack the thing to get it ringing and then place the end of it (not the forked end) on or near the bruise on the bone. If its really painful when you do this, its definately fractured. My girlfriend fell down and cracked her tibia a few months back and she was out for a few weeks. Best to go to the doc though

Ooooohhh! Guess what I found in an old box of photos today... The wall to the right is the same in the scurlock photo http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/53643353

Dec 31, 2007 http://travel.state.gov/travel/tips/regional/regional_1170.html

Guy Edwards, West Ridge of Pigeon Spire under eight minutes, solo and naked.

Applebea Dome Camp is about 250 meters up from the hut. About another hours walk with the huge packs we carried.

There's really only been one case that I know of where bolting in the wilderness was a problem. It resulted, as far as I know, by a lack of communication and poor mapping by the Forest Service. Most climbers are not willing to risk a backlash of their fellow climbers by using power drills in the wilderness. Now, hand drilling is allowed but considered bad form without prior Ranger notification. There is drilling going on in various places around the Cascades, including but not limited to Exit 32 and Exit 38 near North Bend, Darrington, Index and replacement bolts are routinely placed at WA Pass for more obscure routes. Rad's point is very real and it seems that the most frequent place for this to happen is in the Leavenworth area where there seems to be a movement towards strict enforcement by some of the Rangers there. I was ticketed in the Enchantments (purely my fault), but given the circumstances at the time I felt it was unnecessary and completely unjustified. I consider my fine of $200 my 10 year contribution to the NW Forest Pass system. I consider paying for the use of my National Parks, Wildernesses, and Forest Lands double taxation, and I think everyone remembers what happen in 1776 when the British tried that. I've studied the NW Forest Pass system in the past and the numbers do not justify the price considering the costs of enforcement and administration of the system. If a less income prevalent couple with children would like to go out and have a nice weekend in the woods, their decision is now affected by the price of permits and parking. That is wrong and completly contrary to the vision of freedom that America stands for. I now do a lot of climbing in Canada, if only because $5 there is less than $5 in America and at least I feel I'm getting something for my money (toilets, hut access, etc.)

Oh, come on. That's so "My Name is Earl"

Okay, I'm starting to write a damn book for my own sake and for my family audience, but I'll just give you the watered down version here. (Note: you can click the images to see the full size image in my gallery) Day 1: We drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and then met up with Rob in Radium Hot Springs. The stores where closed, but of course since it's Canada, the beer was still fresh and cold at the local restaurants . Brian and I chatted with Rob, whom we had not met until that day and we got to know each other. We bivied down by the river, but left our van at home, so Rob and I were tent bound while Brian slept with the mosquitoes in the bed of his truck. Note to self: Spokane sucks some major Day 2: Finished shopping and had to drive down to Invermere to get cash (so we thought) and had our last meal. Back at Radium, we threw all our shit out onto the lawn to organize what to take, all along to funky stares from the kids playing field hockey in the baseball field at the park (don't they know its a damn baseball field?). With the packs packed, and the cars loaded, we snapped a quick group shot and took off up the road. Wow! Nice condos in Radium, huh? Once in the parking lot after the hour long drive up the dirt road we had to figure out how to actually situate the chicken wire to preserve the rubber hoses under our vehicles. Voracious timber tigers up there, eh? The approach: I had basically convinced myself the the barely three mile trail would be easy. After toiling up the thing for three hours, we finally made it to camp at around 6pm. The ~70 pound packs didn't really help much with the pace, and that was including a plan to go back down to the cars and resupply with another 5 days of food. The sunset never seemed so sweet that evening as we rehydrated and loathed around camp. Day 3: Opting for any easy start we hiked up to the base of the Crescent Towers for our first climb, Lions Way (II 5.6). It was the first time we had climbed with Rob, and he with us, so it was good to figure out our double rope technique and have an easy first climb. Brian fell on the first pitch, when he got a bit off route, leaving him with a nice rug burn on his inner left arm for the rest of the trip. Brian stacked below me as Rob belays us up We topped out feeling pretty good for the first day of climbing. Look at that smile! How many people can you count in this photo? (hint: there's 9) Day 4: Wanting to do something a little harder, we opted for McTech Arete (III 5.10-) as our next objective. Rob was itching for some hard leads, so he took the 5.9 and 5.10- first and second pitches, then I would take the 5.4 and 5.9 third and fourth pitches and Brian would finish the last two 5.8 and 5.7 pitches. Being that is was so hot, we were out of water and energy by the top of the fourth pitch and decided to bail from there. We met a group of four from Cantolona Spain on the way down, and while sharing a rap station with them (that's a total of six at one station) Rob and I taught them a new english word, "Cluster Fuck". Pitch 1: Pitch 2: Pitch 3 : Pitch 4: Day 5: Well Brian and I were pretty worked after McTech, so we took the day off while Rob and his new buddy he met in camp, Warren, headed off to do Surf's Up on Snowpatch Spire. My day was spent reading the manual to my new camera and chasing the damn timber tigers (i.e.:snafflehounds) around. Voracious Timber Tiger Day 6: So, Brian and I planned to climb the NE Ridge of Bugaboo the night before now that we were both pretty rested. Rob, on the otherhand, got pretty worked on Surf's Up, so decided to take a semi-rest day by getting the rest of his food for the next ten days. He was going to stay after we left and climb with another friend from Montana who was meeting him there in a few days. At 3am that night, or plans changed drastically as the first thunder storm rolled and lit up the sky with a dazzling lightning display. Sleep was hard to come by that night, so we choose instead to head up the Donkey Ears via Ears Between (II 5.8). Another great route with easy access and a great position. Brian starting Pitch 2: Brian following Pitch 3: Us on top: Day 7: We were running low on food, Rob and Warren were off to finish McTech arete, so Brian and I chose to head back to the car and get the rest of our food for the trip. We were off by 8am and pulled into camp just afternoon, including a half hour spent doodling around the Kain Hut looking at Fred Beckey photos. Some ominous clouds began to appear to the West, so I buttoned up the tent and put everything away. Not soon after the first lightning crashes echoed from the granite walls that surrounded us. After about a half an hour it passed, but not before we heard what we thought was another thunder crash. This time it was a massive chunk of Bugaboo Spire that broke off and littered the glacier below scouring a large groove in the snow. We also learned its not a good idea to pitch your tent in the dirt as one family up for a backpacking trip found themselves floating by the time the storm receded. They had little time to get everything dried and moved before the next round came through and hour later. Passing thunder storm Bugaboos Spire rockfall Day 8: Still a little pooped from grabbing a load from the day before, we held off on NE Ridge of Bugaboo for one more day and decided do something a little more mellow. We choose the Kraus-McCarthey Route on Snowpatch Spire (IV 5.9), so much for the easy day The guide book says its suppose to be eight pitches, we ran it out in 4 and a half. We were doing good on speed, until we hit the squeeze chimney on top where Brian was symied. I took a swing at the lead and nearly got my ass stuck in the bastard. I was so pumped I had to yard on a piece on the following 5.9 lieback crack that ends at the top. Brian on Pitch 1: Us on top: Day 9: Still tired from the day before and the stinking resupply trip up that f'd up trail, I decided for another rest day and chilled in camp with Rob. I finished my Joe Simpson book and practice my curve ball on some of the snaffles around camp. Brian was itching still to climb, so he took a solo trip up the West Ridge of Pigeon leaving late and getting back after about six hours. Hanging the food so the damn timber tigers wouldn't get to it got to be real old, especially with the munchies all day long. Note to self: don't be anywhere near these things when a thunder storm rolls through Pigeon Spire in the center (west ridge on right skyline): Day 10: With a migrane headache all night long, I pussed out and we walked down to the cars to head back home. After having a few beers, brie, fillet mignon, strudel a la mode, cognac, and some live music, I was feeling much better. We found a comfortable place for the night in Kimberley, BC and planned to do the drive back the next day. Day 11: We drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and drove, and I threw my crap out onto the my lawn. Good times, Good times

Sendfest last night CBS, you need to come up and give us an objective grading.

I found autostitch just the other day and was very impressed with the results. It's about as easy as putting your pants on in the morning to use, and you can tweak all sorts of settings. Now, Gary, where is a good place (translation: cheap) to get panoramics printed off?

When I was younger, I used to read this book that talked about the same thing. Arabs and Jews fighting, blah, blah, blah, Meshack, Shadrack, and Abendigo in the fire, blah, blah, blah. Think it was called the Bibler or something like that. Now they make tents, but the fighting still rages on.