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Dr_Flash_Amazing

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Everything posted by Dr_Flash_Amazing

  1. All joking aside, this is very well put. Is it, though? Yeah, safety is important, but isn't it kind of shortsighted and/or condescending to suggest that one cannot learn to be safe AND to climb in a generally legit style? Are safety and mode of ascent mutually exclusive considerations? Focusing solely on one aspect of one's chosen style of climbing, at any level, is going to be pretty limiting. Balance, friends; the middle ground.
  2. Please, "tobacco water pipe," or you're going to have to leave the store!
  3. Weak. Clip the chains from the holds or don't claim the send. Simple as that.
  4. Ah, a subscriber to the hardcore, straight-outta-mothafuckin'-Compton school of redpointing ethics. Sick!
  5. Funny thing, the owner of the Portland Rock Gym once told DFA, regarding this very issue, that he often grabbed the anchors to clip, and didn't seem to see any issue with it. "You're already done with the route, right?" Or something to that effect. Subtract one letter grade from your redpoint if you grabbed the chains to clip.
  6. "artificial life in the market artificial life in the marketplace artificial life in the market artificial life in the marketplace"
  7. ? Sounds hella porno, holmes.
  8. Dr_Flash_Amazing

    spray

    cc.com?
  9. Dr_Flash_Amazing

    spray

    Looks like a hunnerd percent chance o' seagulls, too, goldurnit.
  10. Shut up, fag.
  11. Are you sure it wasn't Vincent Price?
  12. Per the AmazingCo, Inc. Collegiate Dictionary, 2004 Edition: FUCKING RETARDS: see syn. at "fucktards"
  13. You can make your own Gu at home with Olestra and Nutrasweet! Mmmmmmm, tasty!
  14. No fair, cheater. Texplorer is aid!
  15. Like the prostate!
  16. October 8-10? Sounds great! Can't wait to see you all again!
  17. Bitch never does the dishes, though, sheeeit.
  18. Not bringing your stick clip to Smith? Priceless!
  19. Dr. and Mrs. Flash Amazing saw it recently, in Salt Lake City of all places. Pretty well put together, although it did feel a little long. Not so much boring as maybe driving the point home a bit more than was needed. But the wide variety of perspectives was great, from the super pro-business lay-say-fair guy to the evil-CEO-turned-good-guy head of Interface. Most horrifying were the rBGH thing and the Bolivian water boondoggle. Can you imagine? Not being allowed to collect rainwater? A big "fuck you" to the amoral scumfuckers at Bechtel, for sure. Thumbs down to the FDA and the American dairy industry for dumping hormones and antibiotics down our throats with our 2%. Super-virus with that cancer, ma'am? The whole psychopath thing was kind of funny, but a bit overcooked. The case studies were money, though. All in all, a well-done and highly recommended film. Put that on the list with "Control Room"!
  20. What happened to the bowline around the waist, you sissified nancy-boys?
  21. You definitely had the wrong idea with regard to the rope running between your legs. Straight down in front of you is EXACTLY the best place for the rope, although really, as long as the rope is between you and the rock, you're golden. Being aware of where you are in relation to the rope is a good thing to be working on. Lots of beginners don't take this into account, probably because they were never taught to, which can lead to sketchy scenarios. Basically, if the rope is running from your harness down and then behind your leg (a situation commonly arising from step-through moves or traversing moves, or during clipping), if you fall, you're likely to get flipped upside-down, resulting in head crackage. It really doesn't take much to be a bit more conscious of where the rope is at, and it really makes climbing a lot safer. It's amazing how many people don't pay attention to where the rope's at, though, even experienced climbers. DFA has seen a couple falls in the gym that resulted in the climber getting flipped at least part way upside-down due to getting a leg between the rope and the rock. Good on you for paying attention to that, and good luck staying right-side up!
  22. Badasstastic pasta with spinach, feta, kalamata olives, red onions, toasted walnuts, and garden-fresh peppers and Green Zebra-Stripe tomatoes. Hell, yes.
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