matt_warfield

Here's my response to your assessment: But I still wish the right book was out in a more timely fashion. But then we're waiting and waiting for the right book from the right author at Smith Rock too..... these things just take time I guess.

We don't. It's a turf war, Bruce is steppin on Burdo's toes. Regardless of what anyone thinks about the politics of the guidebook situation, 2 things are obvious: 1) Exit 32 is in need of an updated guide, and 2) the early bird gets the worm so the two Bruce books will hurt Burdo's offering when it comes out. Then there's Smoot's guide and the underground guides.....

Garth Bruce will have an Exit 32 guide out this summer. Bryan Burdo is working on a comprehensive North Bend guide including both Exit 32 and Exit 38 targeted for next summer.

Everybody knows Redmond is that quaint rural town way out in the sticks where life just moves really slow.

Sounds like a big project and great fun on an awesome wall. Good luck finding a partner and hope for no lightning on your big day. You'll be 40% of the way to the exploits of Topher Donahue and Tommy Caldwell, who did 5 Diamond routes in a day last month.

I may be able to stop by around 8:00 after a little golf. Don't worry, I'm 98% climber and only 2% golf..... Can't pass up an opportunity for some Jack's IPA at the Brewhouse and some climbing gab.

Thinker. Nice work, but I think I can beat your effort. Will see about pictures over the weekend before mine heal too much. BTW, you don't get extra credit for the purple second toe nail. This thread is about BIG TOES only. The main thing is not to let a little toe distess from keeping you of the rock right?

I've had major issues with my big toes for years. Usually it's just the toenails each climbing season but this year a few multi-pitch slab climbs have put my toes in the numb category as well. Currently, I am at least half numb in both big toes from slabbing 2 weeks ago. Hiking and climbing still goes down fine, but it looks to be a while before all the feeling comes back and my toenails would win any "ugly toe" contest!

I'm going to be in Colorado for 2 weeks, but would be up for Eastside Pubclub thereafter. Redhook, Celtic Bayou, and Northwest Brewhouse would all be fine venues for

Dwayner's on the mark. Please distinguish between a single guide with 1-2 clients who want to push their limits on a classic alpine climb; and a group of beginners trying to learn climbing or summit Rainier or something. Good guides are fast, safe, and generally excellent stewards of the environment and the climbing experience. However, the general public should not be penalized regarding the number of permits or how they are distributed.

Snake (5.9) Rock On (5.10a) Exasperator pitch 1 (5.10a) Centrefold (5.10b) Apron Strings (5.10b) Merci Mi (5.8 but spicy runouts) The last pitch of Sunblessed is weird, stiff, and I don't think amenable to French free. The first pitches are awesome however and you can choose an alternate finish. Rock On is a little easier and also quite excellent with about the same length. You'll love Squamish!

According to the accounts on the Gripped site, the accident happened after a request to set up a 2-rope toprope for the next party on the climb and a subsequent lower. Without knowing the details of the lower, is is still safe to say that 2 rope topropes and lowers can be problematic due to knot issues. The crowded scene would inhibit the clear thinking necessary here. Rappelling would be a better approach......or telling the new party to get their own rope up there. Regardless, a tragic loss and a reminder that gravity is in charge.

Just did this drive last weekend. Took 5:15 from Issaquah going through Yakima at speed limit + 5mph. No cops. I prefer this route. On way home major cop action on i-5 and much traffic. Expect the same over Mem. Day. It's going to be hot Saturday. Take the sun clothes or go to the back side.

Definitely do it but I'd recommend summer if crowding is your main issue. The permit system and long hike in keep the crowds down. Without those deterrents it would be a proverbial cluster f*** most summer weekends. If you go in the Fall, you can catch the larch colors and maybe a few snowflakes too.

No problemo Erik and you are right. I was referring generically to the permit region as "Enchantment" but yes, this one would be Stuart. The main issue is that the Enchanment/Stuart area is subject to the same highly restrictive quota sytem for camping and that climbers should, when speaking with said DeForest Service personnel, always state their intent to climb within the permit region during the day only. As Erik says, it is unlikely as hell one will encounter a ranger at a bivouac site that was not "planned".

A couple notes to append to Erik's "I hate permits" comments. There is no quota for Ingall's permits. Technically, N. Ridge of Stuart is probably in the Enchantment permit area but the quota'd permits are for overnights. So, approach the Ridge from Ingalls with a trailhead permit and "plan" to not overnight within the permit area. If a bivouac happens for "safety's" sake then so be it. BTW, N. Ridge is a crappy route that nobody's heard of. Haha, just kidding. It'll turn your crank.

Did this the chest-beaters way (Snow Creek start to Colchuck finish- more vertical) with my family in 10 hours. Also did it with 1 car: dropped party at Snow, dropped car at Colchuck TH, rode bike back to Snow. It was fun and done late season with no snow. Approx 19 miles and lotsa vertical. Requires much after.

Or tell them their guide isn't accredited!

Well, I enjoyed my first Pub Club and can say it seemed a rousing success. Attended by 10-12 and almost all stayed until 11:30. I thought you'd all be bigger (except mtnrgr- he's already bigger). Enjoyed visiting with mattp, AlpineK, lisa, Dwayner, Geek the Greek, and others.

Thanks Erik. I'll stop by.

I hate to quote myself in situations like these but I'd still like to know when these shindigs generally start and end.

Well, no time like the present to try my first Pub Club and meet a few of the faces in front of those sparkling personalities as expressed on this site. Anybody mind telling me when folks start showing up?

The Bayou is my regular spot. I'd stop in and meet some of y'all and have some of their great and food.

I agree 100% with that Muffy. Steph IS sexy and also a great climber. "I just sit on my feet and my hand jams are like nuts" on 11+ free solo...... uh, okay

quote: Steph davis ( I think) fee soloing some crack was awsome, JK thaught it was SEXY Steph does 11+ free solo at Indian Creek, with one great butt shot segment. I think she and Dean Potter got married, so she is no longer available. But neither is JK, right Muff?