tyree

Nice job guys. It seems to me that there are plenty of unclimbed lines up there.

Dude that chimney is a BITCH. At 5.8 it weighs in as one of the biggest sandbags ive ever climbed. Granted, once inside it its not too bad but getting there easily 5.9+.

That route is SICK, i love it. nice job guys

Here is a TR of our linkup, not sure if its a speed record but who knows for sure? UTW Trifecta

nice work guys I was with the dude who forgot his "bivi jacket". He didnt say anything until after we were up past high camp with two days food and bivi gear. It wsnt a total loss, this was also my first time up in Boston Basin and the W. ridge lived up to its reputation as an alpine classic Did anybody find a pair of black Smith sunglasses at the last creek crossing? I left them there in a panic to get away from the damn flies If so PLEASE PM me and i will be soooo psyched.

Friday???

Good work!!! Sounds like a true alpine ass kicking!!!

nice work! your pics are killer!!!

Nice work man. I love that part of the cscades.

also, the 5.11 money pitch is (from what I've heard) always wet at the finish. the roof traverse will dry out....give it some more time. Tyree, Question: Is there any signs of new rockfall from the nw face area? I didint notice any "new rock fall" on the NW face. There is that HUGE scar climbers left of the route but it looks pretty old. For what its worth there is a new scar on DT left of Backbone, its pretty big.

lost arrow- I took a nice shot of you climbing that corner on top o prussic. pm me if you want to see it.

There is no sno on N ridge of Stewart

Climb: Colchuck/Balance Rock-W. Face Date of Climb: 7/14/2005 Trip Report: Frosty the Tradman and I headed up to Colchuck lake after a day of cragging in 11worth. The temps were perfect and the hike very enjoyable. We camped at the lake and left camp around 5:00 am. After the approach gully, we took our time getting on route around 7:30. I led the 1st pitch. The first part was moving through easy ledges to the "5.10+" pitch. I found this to be straight forward thin hands. Frosty then took the next lead linking pitches 2 and most of 3. Fun climbing. This left me to lead the remainder of three and the super long 5.11 corner. In retrospect we should have bumped the belay up to the base of the corner because the rope drag proved to be a beast. About 150 ft up I took a fall because i just couldnt commit to the clip with the hard moves coupled with the weight of the rope. The last 20 ft were soaked with green slime that forced me to hang dog through. This pitch was excellent aside from the slime and rope drag. The moves were not hard (5.10+) but very sustained for the entire 190ft. It was now Frosty's turn to lead out the roof. After climbing a fixed sling ladder the route went left in a crack at the base where the roof meets the wall. This part was soaked as well and forced Frosty to hang through. The moves were not that difficult but the crucial foot holds were very wet. Pulling the corner around the end of the roof was incredible! Here is a view of Stewart from the belay under the roof. The next pitch was awsome. Becky gives it 5.10 but its more like 5.9+ with awsome exposure. The aid through the roof was easy due to a fixed nut at the lip. The last hard climbing was Frosty's lead through the "5.8" chimney. This has to be some hardman's idea of a sick joke. The 1st part is a bombay chimney that is just fucking hard. It eases up into another, what I would call, 5.8 chimney with some exposed moves at the end. The last pitch was an easy scramble to the top. This has to be the easiest decent in the cascades. One rap to ledges that take you down to scree slopes that wind around the west flank back to our packs. From here it was back to te lake and a 3:30am start to the S. face of Prussic. That is a tale for another time. Gear Notes: doubles to 3.5 alpine aiders would have been nice for the 2nd on the roofs. Approach Notes: CHILL

Dude did you make it to work on time? Ginnie said you didnt get to Sultan till 2:30am . nice TR see you up on the pass- tyree

WERD!!!

DEATH MARCH BLUES

hmmmm i wonder who found that Irie find? i swear that i left it on that ledge. Steddy the only thing you were getting it on with was the summit register

well thanks again, that was very educational. I guess that we will find out soon if the weather cooperates. if anybody does know 1st hand i would be stoaked on some rock beta.

I havent been up to slesse yet but from what I have heard the north rib is primaraly composed of some granite, NE but is some sort of choss or another so it seems to be a mixed bag. i was hoping to hear it was mostly granite but i guess we'll find out soon. thanks for the info and if yall hear any more id be interested in hearing about it.

I was wondering what type of rock was prevalenton the Navigator Wall?? Does any body know or know somebody who knows? Thanks in advance- tyree

Climb: Index Upper Town Wall-D Hollnd/Lovin Arms, G Drag-on, T Crier Linkup Date of Climb: 6/24/2005 Trip Report: Fosty The Tradman and I did a linkup of these routes on friday this week. We woke up in Sultan at 3:00 and were climbing the 1st pitch of D-holland by 5:08. We had intended to swap leads halfway through the 1st route but there was no stopping frosty. We were short fixing and leading out on clove hitches while the other person jugged. This was our first attempt at speed climbing and we had a blast! We topped out on the 1st route at 2hrs 22min After rappping to the ground it was my turn to lead the Green Drag-on. After a cluster f%&k at the top of the third pitch we topped out after 6 hours of aiding with a couple of free moves for some spice. Then came the Town Crier. Again another masterful lead by Frosty. I was expecting to bail him out on the fourth or fifth pitch but his momentum was like a freight train and he blasted to the top. All in all we topped out in 14 hrs 14min. We werent tryng to break any records or anything like that. We didnt even know if we could pull it off, it was training for the valley and we had a really fun time at it! Here we are at the top of TC super stoaked Gear Notes: too much shit for all the fixed gear up there

Stranger Ted from AAI or Shits In Lakes Ted? Well either way there was no Ted.

From what I could see there was very little if any at all on the ridge proper, but the gendarm bypass was choked with snow

Climb: Stuart-Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 6/22/2005 Trip Report: We went and climbed the Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier last Sunday. I tried to post earlier but was working all week and climbing yesterday. Anyhow it was a great trip, albiet a little out of prime season we still managed to pull it off. The weather was really warm but the aspect of the route allowed for most of it to be climbed in the shade. The Ice cliff was pretty tame, I was able to climb it with one tool. The crux of the route proved to be the bergschrund above the ice cliff. There was a skethcy ice runnel partialy spaning the gaping schrund. It was about two and a half feet thick at the base. I thought this was dangerous and opted to end run the schrund and climb ice through cliff bands.The ice was shit and in retrospect it probaly wasnt any safer than the partial bridge that the other party we were with took without incident. Great cramponing led to the upper coulior that near the cornice was waist deep potato soup. Once the soup was devoured it was a chill scramble to the summit We decended the Sherpa Glacier. The initial coulior was steep soup around 40 degrees and we were kicking of sluff avys the whole way We found a pretty good alternative to the talus/ boulderfield approach on the way out. It follows the middle fork of mountianeer creek. Gear Notes: three ice screws, two tools, crampons.