JoshK

OK, I just called the ranger station. In case anybody cares, they said it's drivable to the trailhead, with snow starting around 8 miles.

Does anybody know how far you can drive up the white chuck river road in order to access the kennedy hot springs trail? I am hoping it's driveable to the end this year.

Some guys in a toyota tacoma pickup got about one mile up the road, but you can't go any farther due to a nice mud/snow slide that brougt a tree down across the road. We just parked at the road junction, and to save the 20 minutes or so it takes to walk that mile it probably isn't worth the risk of getting your car stuck. As for the rest of the approach, there is a *nice* packed trail going in there now. The last 2 miles sucked for us, becuase that is where the previously packed trail ended, but after our trampling, and that of the other 2 parties, it is easily walkable without snowshoes now. Of course, new snow could change this quickly...

Yeah, and I could see them getting mixed up quite easily as there are lots of them and they are not all that easily distinguishable. Looked like some good fun to be had. I would imagine that the 'whack up the drainage might be kind of a pain, huh?

The Vaude tents I am familar with are still heavier than an ID/Bibler style single wall tent. Are these new ones you speak of any lighter? I looked on their website and saw the "galaxy series." Is there something newer than this? -josh

I have an integral designs MK1 XL. It's just over 4 lbs and is nice n' sturdy. I personally think single wall is the way to go since they are easier to pitch and require a smaller footprint. I haven't had any problems with condensation that a double wall wouldn't have had.

I have those stubai crampons as well. I love them. very light.

When day does spring officially start? I'm going to banff in a few weeks...

For those of you interesting in pictures: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=413&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=412&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=411&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=410&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 -josh

Ye ask and ye shall receive... Return to this folder and 'refresh'

Ivan and I did this route this weekend. I can certainly see why it's become a popular route. I think I had got myself physced up for something more technically demanding, so I actually found the overall difficulty easier than I was expecting. Regardless, the setting is unbeatable, the views are amazing and it's long and tiring enough to make you earn it. We started up from Colchuck late somewhere around 8:30 or 9:00 (don't remember the exact time)) towards the hidden couloir. In our company were two very nice gents from wenatchee who were just starting up the route as well. After about 50 feet of DEEP postholing it became obvious that a group effort on the route would benifit all. The snow was stable from an avy standpoint, but in the lower angle sections it was still very very deep from last weekend's snowfall. Up we chuged, reaching the hidden couloir in fairly good time. All 4 of us soloed up the hidden coulior, which was more somewhat deep, yet stable snow. It was consolidated enough that support was not an issue. After a while we reached the start of the transition pitches into the next coulior. The two other climbers decided to belay here, so Ivan and I agreed to do the same, and waited our turn. This was, far and away, the most miserable part of the climb for me. Sitting at this belay for what seemed like hours (probably more like 30 or 40 minutes) caused me to lose feeling in my left toes and pretty much both of my hands. This sucked ass, needless to say. After the other climbers were at their belay, I led this pitch up on what was mostly steep and very good quality styrofoam snow/alpine ice. The tools stuck awesome in this stuff. The pro wasn't good, but thankfully the climbing was very secure, so I ran it out to our next belay. It was here where I learned the true origin of the term "the screaming barfies" My hands hurt so @#(* bad that for about 5 minutes I was pretty damn sure I was going to puke. I have never experienced the barfies this bad and hope to never again. Anyway, Ivan followed up and headed off to lead the next pitch. This pitch was slightly sketchier but fairly short. In good time I hear "you're on belay, Josh" and I'm off to find him waiting for me at a tool and ice screw belay below a rather inviting water ice pitch. At this point I realize that fate has smiled upon me and I get to lead this very fun looking pitch. The next 40 feet or so was very fun but moderate water ice, with an ocasional crampon-on-the-rock move. A single green alien (god I love that thing) provided a bomber piece of pro half way up. At the top I set two screws into some solid ice and belay Ivan up. We then simulclimb the second coulior which is about the same as the hidden, perhaps a tad steeper. Snow here is about the same as we experienced lower down: solid yet quite deep. At the top of this coulior we belay our final belayed pitch to get us into the third couloir. The third coulior seems to be a repeat of the first two, but at this point I'm pretty sick of slogging in deep snow, so it seems to be about twice as long At the top of the third coulior, we grab a bite to eat, chat with another team that had gatherd with us on the route and head up to the summit. Here we meet our original team of new friends and exchange pleasentries in the AMAZING FEELING afternoon sun, while taking in the amazing views of stuart, the enchantment plateau and the northcasades. The walk down the snow creek glacier and aasgard pass are as boring and uneventful as every other time I've done it. All and all...a great time, in a great place, with great people. Can't ask for much more, can ya?

Thanks for the gear info guys. It ended up being just about right on. For any additional climbers, take note that the yellow, blue and green aliens (those are what I have for small cams) were super useful. The green size especially, as it provided a great piece of pro on the "crux" ice pitch.

Hey all...in case anybody is really itching to climb some ice, and is willing to take on a little adventure: When hiking up and down the 8-mile road this weekend, I noticed tons of water ice across the valley. Granted, not all of it was fat, but there definitely looked to be some pitches that would be worth checking out if I had the time. In any event, they can easily be seen by walking up that road, but to get to the climbs a bushwhack up the drainage might be the easiest. Then again, maybe hiking up the road, scoping them out, then dropping down into the drainage and back up might be better. Anyway, that's my totally useless bit of beta. I just found it interesting to see so much ice everywhere this weekend. The last week or so of melt-and-freeze seems to have done some good. happy exploring.

Yup, I saw what I think is the same ice flow ealier this year when I did lover's lane. It was pretty thin then. Has it fattened up?

hahaha...silly russian boy. Renowned chinese climber harry pi would outclimb you any day!

Yeah, for the most part that's true, erik. I was just referring to a camping-only overnight pack and no technical gear at all. I figured that was what toast was asking about since I specified that in my original post. In any event, I go with the neutrinos and other technical lighties as well. It's amazing what a bit here and a bit there can save, eh?

Disclaimer, this is my summer overnight gear, colder weather = more gear, but here is my best memory. I have actually all the weights in a spreadsheet at home since I am just that geeky. pack: go light gust...11oz pad: 3/4 ridgerest...9oz sleeping bag...WM something-or-other-lite...16oz bivy...integral designs endurance...10oz tarp...integral designs siltarp 5x8...10oz stove...snowpeak giga...3oz pot...smallish titanium or alumium pot...4 or 5oz To this basic gear I add an assortment of lightweight clothing, down coat, etc. depending on the conditions I am expecting. Minimizing weight in the 3 main areas of shlter, pack and sleeping back + cutting out totally unnesssary gear really gets you a long way. I was suspicous of super lightweight packs (basically just rucksacks) but with only 20lbs or less in them, it isn't a problem at all.

Yup, Allison is right. The basic climbing course will teach y'all some fun stuff. But be sure to read up on various ways to save weight and effort as you gain experience. Once you start to know the mountains better, you can better judge what can be left out for weight and speed, but only experience will teach you this. That's one of my favorite things about overnighting w/o technical gear now...15lb packs

I took a friend and her beginner friend on a hike up to byrne lake this past summer. That wasn't the hike for a beginner. It was good training for me, however, as I got to jog up to the lake with my pack, drop it, jog back down and then carry her pack the rest of the way up.

Hopefully they let you take the water out at the top to avoid the knee damage on the way down?

That's awesome, very funny!

These fine words have gotten me far in life...

I know the mounties do lots of hikes, in addition to climbs and more technical outings, so it's possible "students" just refers to everybody but the trip leader.

When I was there pretty much everything south facing in the icicle was pretty damn snow free. I could see givlers and icicle buttress from my perch, and they looked warm and sunny