Thinker

by this logic we are all africans. My mom told ME I'm half Plutonian, some deep dark secret about her life in the Arizona desert and UFOs....

I think that was Harry's point. I guess the question is then, did your bike ride take you thru the Seattle Center? Check out the old ladies smiling and taking photos...

my roommate came home with one of these the other day. It looks and feels cool.... The uses I see for it are for z-pulley (if you don't mind using a non-locking biner as a pulley) and for hauling pigs on walls. it would prolly speed up the z-pulley set up.

The Abu Ghraib interrogations were probably just practice for the interrogators who'd just finished up their training in Israel. By the time those interrogators get back to the States and start working on the 'terrorists' captured or detained here they'll have the process polished and efficient. What strikes me as odd, or at least contradictory, is the moral high ground that the politicians try to maintain. The rhetoric says that the US is waging the Iraq and Afghanistan wars for the good of the people there and for the good of the larger world. Ignoring the rhetoric and observing the actions of the politicans and the US military lead the thinking man to a very different set of conclusions.

Scene: family of 4 walking across the grass near the lake. Mother, father, 2 kids approx 3 and 4 years old. Dialog: Father says, 'No, no, son....don't run....you'll fall down.' ******************* Now, I must confess that I'm not a parent, but I DO have plenty of experience as a son. I am SO glad that my parents encouraged me to run, play, climb trees, swim in the lake, hunt, camp, and live a full live. I can not even begin to imagine what life for those 2 kids will be like for the next 15 years. My question today is, does the way we were raised REALLY affect the way we live life today? One could assert that many of us (climbers) who choose to participate in activities deemd more 'risky' by society were likely encouraged to such things in childhood. Q#2: Is there a significant number of people who were raised by overprotective parents and who broke free of that mindset and now climb?? I'd love to hear your story.

I'm back. i just had time for a little beach bouldering at Monterrey and just north of Malibu. photos soon. thanks for the tips and offers.

heading as far as LA, maybe further.

Kelz, how was Thailand?

but it's still pretty cool. http://www.laserp.com/fun_stuff/dog_skating.htm

Just in case someone chooses not to go thru the hassle of registering to read the article, it does NOT say Buffet contributed to the Bush campaign. W Buffet is probably one of the sanest and most level-headed financial advisors a good presidential (or governor) candidate could choose. ************************************ High-tech executives give financial backing to Bush By David Postman Seattle Times chief political reporter High-tech executives from Texas to Redmond, including at least two billionaires, converged here last night to endorse George Bush's re-election, putting an official touch on the Bush campaign's dominance in the race for the industry's campaign contributions. The prominent high-tech backers for the president present something of a culture clash in Seattle, the largest and most liberal city in a state that for 20 years has voted for Democratic candidates for president. Local and national technology entrepreneurs and executives said Bush's policies would be better for their businesses — and therefore the country — than what Democrat John Kerry proposes. "I would say the conundrum is that for everyone to do well in the country, American businesses have to prosper again," said cellphone pioneer Craig McCaw. The Bush backers said they support the president for his stands on education, setting limits on lawsuits, visas for foreign workers and free trade. Former Microsoft executive Bob Herbold said Bush was the "spiritual force" behind a tax credit that has spurred research and development. Peter Neupert, chairman of Drugstore.com, said he supports Bush's decision to back electronic access to consumer health records. Dell Computers founder Michael Dell was scheduled to attend but was stuck in traffic and missed the endorsement announcement. He was expected along with the others for a $250-a-person fund-raiser of Bush "Mavericks," the campaign's organization for donors under 40. Through the end of March, employees of computer and Internet-related companies had given $1.4 million to Bush and $779,000 to Kerry, according to the Center for Responsive Politics, a nonpartisan Washington think tank. The ratio is similar to 2000, when Bush collected $1.2 million from the industry, about double what Democrat Al Gore received. Gore cultivated technology credentials, from touting his role in development of the Internet to wearing a PalmPilot on his belt. "I think there was a greater sensitivity to technology in the Clinton-Gore administration than I would see in a Kerry administration," McCaw said in an interview. "That's no denigration of John Kerry. He's a fine man, but I don't think he has that sensitivity to what has driven the country in the global economy." Herbold, a longtime Republican activist whose wife, Pat Herbold, chairs the King County GOP, said the tech industry has begun to lean more Republican over the past five or six years. Microsoft founder Bill Gates was swayed four years ago when his company was under attack by the Justice Department of Democrat Bill Clinton, Herbold said. "It became clear in the presidential election of 2000 that the company as well as the industry would be better off with a free marketplace, and that's what caused him (Gates) to come out strongly in favor of George W. Bush," Herbold said. All Gates wanted to do was operate in a free-enterprise system, and "there's no party that supports the free-enterprise system like the Republican Party," Herbold said. Gates has donated to Bush's re-election. The company's political-action committee has not contributed to either of the candidates. Microsoft group vice president Jeff Raikes will co-host a fund-raiser for Kerry in Seattle next week along with other Democratic-leaning high-tech executives. "We have employees supporting both the president's re-election campaign and Sen. Kerry's presidential campaign," said Microsoft spokeswoman Ginny Terzano. "Like many companies in the technology industry, Microsoft has a politically active employee base that is diverse in its political beliefs and takes part in politics on an entirely voluntary basis." Top executives of Google, E-Loan and Yahoo have endorsed Kerry. Rob Glaser, chairman and CEO of RealNetworks, has given close to $1 million to independent liberal political groups dedicated to defeating Bush this year. Software entrepreneur Paul Brainerd, a Kerry supporter, said there is a natural political split in the technology industry. "There's a strong Democratic attraction to many of the people in high-tech at lower levels," said Brainerd, the retired founder of Aldus. "Obviously, their bosses may have a different perspective given the objectives they're trying to achieve with the current administration." Drugstore.com's Neupert agreed there has been a change as executives have matured along with their companies. "I think that it's that natural conservatism of people as they become more responsible and see more of their mistakes," he said. "They're less idealistic and don't think, 'Oh, government can fix everything.' " McCaw gave a defense last night of outsourcing, the controversial practice of U.S. companies sending jobs overseas. He said jobs have gone to India, China and other countries because "technology has created an opportunity for others to participate in what we created." "There is a little bit of discomfort with the spreading of this prosperity," he said. To McCaw, outsourcing shows the success of U.S. technology. "We can close our borders, but then our ideas will not dominate," he said. The executives who appeared last night at the Sheraton Seattle Hotel and Towers were billed as "Innovators for Bush-Cheney," an echo of a favorite Bush word for his approach to technology. From the early days of his 2000 campaign, Bush signaled his skepticism with the federal government's antitrust case against Microsoft when he said he stood "on the side of innovation, not litigation," and his supporters made clear they expected him to drop the case if elected. In his first year in office, the government agreed to settle the case with Microsoft. McCaw said Bush's inclination for less government involvement in business is key to his support for the president. McCaw and Kerry are neighbors in their vacation homes in Idaho, and McCaw says "he's certainly a good man." "As much as I respect him, I have a very different view of government's role in allowing people to innovate and make their way in the world, and frankly, in the information and telecom industry, he is more of a status-quo guy than an innovator."

NPS Morning Report summary: Mount Rainier National Park (WA) Climber Succumbs After Evacuation Following Major Rescue Effort Early on the morning of Saturday, May 15th, Peter Cooley, 39, of Cape Elizabeth, Maine, was ascending Liberty Ridge with companion Scott Richards, 42, when he fell at the 11,800-foot level. Although the rope and belay arrested his fall and he was wearing a helmet, he suffered a severe head injury and possible leg and arm injuries. Richards contacted the park via cell phone just after 6 a.m. and reported the accident. Rescue efforts were immediately begun, but were hindered for two days by poor weather, steep terrain and the high elevation. In the interim, Richards carved out a flat platform for a tent on the 45 degree slope, got Cooley into a sleeping bag, and cared for him. After nearly three full days of concerted efforts by several teams of rescuers, rangers were finally able to get to Cooley late on Monday. The weather that had been the principal problem abated, making it possible for an Oregon National Guard Chinook helicopter to fly to the ridge. Cooley was strapped into a rescue litter and was hoisted into the hovering helicopter. Although still alive when extricated, he did not survive the flight and was pronounced dead upon arrival at Madigan Army Hospital. Participants in this major rescue effort included nearly 70 people from the park, Tacoma Mountain Rescue, Rainier Mountaineering and the Oregon National Guard. Mike Gauthier was IC.

Isn't that a special R&I issue about bouldering?

looks like she's taking a few makeup and hair tips from Courtney Love.

BRITNEY ENDS GERMAN CONCERT IN TEARS Relatives of troubled pop beauty Britney Spears are seriously worried about her mental health -- after she rushed off stage in Berlin, Germany, in tears. The superstar, 22, has been struggling to cope with her huge workload as she continues her Onyx Hotel tour in Europe, and sources close to Britney fear the situation is only going to get worse. Britney is reportedly desperate to return home to her mother Lynne after suffering the worst reviews of her career for the raunchy stage show. But with contractual obligations preventing her from ditching the tour, miserable Britney is getting more and more depressed. And the depth of her anguish was clearly demonstrated when she ran off the stage in the German capital and fled to a waiting car, before ignoring fans as she ran into her hotel. A source tells British newspaper the Sun, "Dozens of fans were waiting for her outside the hotel. "She rushed straight past them with her baseball cap pulled right down over her eyes. But everyone could see she had been crying her eyes out on the limo journey. Her mascara was streaming down her face." The sexy singer has now taken her tour to France.

This guy consistently has rare, oop, and signed copies of books. Get on his mailing list if you're truly interested in expanding your library. Here's his latest email: DEAR FRIENDS As we get closer (1 week? 2 weeks?) from launching our new improved website, we are creating some interesting databases of our books. Here is an updated list of SALE BOOKS, with many lower prices than ever before, and some new titles added just today (Climb Up To Hell, A Slender Thread). TO ORDER JUST E-MAIL US AT chesslerbk@aol.com WITH YOUR NAME AND WHAT YOU WANT, IF WE HAVE YOUR CREDIT CARD ON FILE WE WILL SIMPLY SHIP YOU THE BOOKS! More details at the bottom. Or phone 800 654-8502, or 303 670-0093, or FAX 303 670-9727 10 KEYS TO CLIMB EVEREST By: Ament, Pat. Price $5.00 ~ You save $9.95 A MOST HOSTILE MOUNTAIN: MT SAINT ELIAS By: Waterman, Jonathan. Price $10.00 ~ You save $15.00 A NATURAL HISTORY OF THE LONG EXPEDITION TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS By: Evans, Howard. 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looks like I'll be making a road trip down Hwy 101 in the near future. What are the 'must do' beach climbs along the way?

the sling is locked into one end of the biner so it's pretty hard to crossload it. another thing I remember about the ones I had a few years ago is that I didn't think the hook that catches the wire gate was very 'positive'. I wasn't sure it would actually catch the wire if the biner started stretching/flexing under a big load.

I agree, it's not uncommon to encounter snow and or ice on the route that time of year. And sharpen your crampons!

I would call 'sling breakage' a perfect example of 'anchor failure'.

I bought a few QDs with the Trango Directionals on them a few years ago for a gf that was just starting to lead. I liked them and wish I'd have found a way to end up with them on my rack when we split up our gear. I liked the wire gates better than the standards. edit: not to be confused with these Trango Directionals.

I have 1 or 2 guides to DT if you want to look them over over a beer sometime. DT is famous for eating rap ropes, esp if you bail in the middle of a route, i.e. not using the official rap anchors. Everyone HAS to do Durrance, but make sure you save an extra day or 2 to do several other routes that you'll no doubt enjoy more. If you have even more time, make sure you stop in the Black Hills of SD (about 2 hours away from the tower) for some even better climbing.

I like my Sunto Vector, but it's too big to wear on my wrist. So, I wear it on a lanyard around my neck or on a pack strap....puurrfect.

someone needs to tell those plumbers and refrigerator repairmen that they're hanging out. I'll bet most don't even know it. Imagine the job posting for the inspector's position.... Help wanted: Do you know crack? No, silly, not crack cocaine, BUTT crack. Seeking individuals qualified to identify illegal butt crack. Must be proficient with a tape measure and digital camera, and not be afraid to confront and cite angry trades people and gangsters. Compensation is on a comission basis of tickets written. Flak jackets provided after 90 day probation period.

relax, dude. I'm just adding to the body of info. You said you weren't sure if the book covered the areas in question, so I got out my copy and checked. peace out, bro! The 'Omak Bouldering' thread would be a good one to read. Lots of info for the county just south of Ferry, and I suspect those locals would be the best place to go for info if Marty comes up dry.

'Inland NW' does not cover those areas. closest thing along hwy 21 it details is Banks Lake. I'll bet Marty has beta on the rock you scoped, though. Seach for 'Omak' and 'Colville Reservation'. There are some local climbers there who probably know, but I doubt they'll give up the info unless you have some connection to them.