RuMR

i hate 11worth...too much hiking...blech

cool...i'm heading up to squish this weekend w/ frank for a long route...gonna get peed on, probably wind up at chek w/ every other freak from vancouver...

More or less the guy asking for beta is learning to aid climb and its going to be weird, and he might be scared as shit on c1 placements, I know I was when I first started aiding. My beta was so the guy could do it comfortably while learning. Cam hooking and speed climbing will follow as experience is gained. I've soloed the route around 20 times and feel like my rack recommendations will get him through the business comfortably. Tim...you back? How did it go?? PM me

we gots to get out and take advantage of this global warming shiznet!!

she said AMAZING...not FAT

bob...even if it said several 5.9 pitches would you really be getting a fitness deal out of it? My guess is no...so tirading about how you expected to get worked and then find out that the route is trivial is stupid... FWIW, there may be some climbers out there that aspire to do this route! why harsh on their day? Why don't you say if it was a good or bad route instead of griping about the grade? There are routes that are stiff for their grade and there are routes that are easy for their grade...its meaningless, and only a guide... Now, the real question is: "Is it a good route?"

CENTRAL PILLAR OF FRENZY we were on it 5 days before...wow...

ummm...i'd like to see you climb even a vertical wall w/ an undercling sequence and not pull out... you are an idiot or trolling....

I believe he's done v12 in squamish, and i know he's climbed several 11's in Banks lake w/ Johnny G.

cole has sent v12 before...he could send v13 if he wasn't perma-stoned...

oh...and its about 10 minutes from the smoke bluffs...

This is where i suggest we camp! For cantankerous spouses, there's showers, for young children, a playground and a swimming lake (definitely summer, not spring)...its about 8 bucks i think...Fires are permitted and the gate is locked at night...never had a problem w/ someone messing w/ my stuff there...

what about squish??? Waaaaaaaaaay fun...

you gonna slap me w/ that big belly you've been displayin' lately, sucka? HAHAHA

why does every one think that performance shoes are uncomfortable?????? Mine are quite confortable...

what about "flail" instead of bail? Would that warrant a bitch slap??

Shut up you sportivamonkeyspankin'foolclimberpansynancyeuroshapedclovenhoofed beast... GO WITH FIVE TEN MOCC'S! you can readily resole these, they mold to your foot and any routes that you will be climbing will not require high performance edging platforms...you will learn much faster in slippers as you can feel what's going on...if you climb in a beginner piece of shit ski boot of a shoe, you will only be held back...the mocc's should be sized tightly and they will stretch to your foot in a matter of about 2 pitches...and they will be comfortable despite what everyone above (DFA excepted...he's spot on, even with his whack-fairy princess feet syndrome).... Tenaya's are dirt cheap and good performance...especially the models that are knockoffs of the five tens... YOU WILL BE HELD BACK IF YOU CLIMB IN SHITTY (READ GENERAL ALL AROUND BEGINNER SHOES) SHOES...

bring sunscreen and seek da' shade! You'd be better served going to squamish...

Proabably Cole's problem at Goldbar. V13 or something, it looked pretty hard, I didn't even try. Cole's a siiiiiick kid...man, that punk can pull...

My point was that he doesn't neccesarily know that is the FS used in determining the WL...it varies from company to company (no, it is NOT STANDARD)...i do this for a living...a better method is to determine the gr of steel and then look at the prop's or contact the mfr directly. help me here GregW!!

NO ian, you have to know what factor of safety that they are using for their computations...assuming 5 is pretty big...probably more like 2 or 3...

also, the shorter routes are kinda dumb when there are 3 star 25m to 35m routes just a hundred yards down the hill...

hey...Get a guide book, the wall is very easy to orient yerself to w/ one. Have you ever used one before? Rocket is waaaay good...very flashable...just missed it... Animal is good also, and there is a recent bolt added to the top to cut down the "scary" factor. You must do Air BC and NoName road...good mid 11's and Burning Down the Couch is one of my favorite 11+'s just about anywhere. An extra tcu or two for the top is nice for comfort but not necessary... Blackwater (i think that's its name) is a stupendous .12a...very very good...