RuMR

has been realized again!!! there are beasts out there

i still think the best most classic spray fest war was between two sage spray warriors... willstrickland vs. crazypolishbob w/ tex and will tag teaming the polish wonder!!! man, that was some funny stuff!!! HAHAHA

dammit!

specialized offwidth climbing gear

This thread is pure comedy!!!!!!!!! I'm just a smart

sure is a lot of shit talking considering the energy and enthusiasm that the 80's and early 90's had going at smith...it was cutting edge in north america at the time... say what you want...it was also cutting edge (well alan anyway) for hard trad climbing at the time too...

sounds good! although seein' thrutch nekkid would not be sumpin to see!!!

HA! I can't help it if your mug is plastered all over the gallery!!! and i've gots enuff where-with-all to connect the dots...

You are a S T A L K E R!!!

...P.S. Good job of turning my good-natured post into another one of your mean-spirited sprays. its what i do best!

yah Paul...RMNP is all about non alpine non approach bouldering...

you actually climb?????? WTF!! I thought you just sat around drinkin' mickeys and reminiscing (sp?) about the old days when men were men and sheep were scared!!!

150 for the #9 and 175 for the #12... They are the shit!! very well built...and smooth...i have daryl's and i have to get it back to him, so i ponied up and bought one for myself...he had a few more in stock early summer... They glide along pretty well, plus w/ a crack that wide, you can actually reach down to the axle and pull the thing up to you...

goddam you gals are organised...where's the fun if you don't have that mad last minute, go thru the entire buddy list, trying to find someone to punt work to crag????

i've used a valley giant (courtesy of daryl cramer, thanks!)...the big cams may weigh more individually, but they are more "transportable" than big bros, ie, you can shove them along ahead of you and leap frog them...consequently you don't need as many to feel relatively comfortable on a sustained width crack... my $0.02...but i'm just a sporto-geek...so i don't know jack...

Will/Alpinfox I agree w/ your stance that retrobolting is wrong, as is the tagging and the bolt on holds are really really $hitty...my main beef is that any action taken by some vigilante (i'm sorry dane, but that's what you are, if you single handedly get in car, drive 4 hours and chop those bolts w/o discussion w/ the people who actually put them in) is totally wrong...The problem i see is that it runs the risk of getting areas closed...then, nobody wins, not traditionalists and not sport climbers...is this what you really want dane? Really???

Actually, some of us see Ken Nichols as a kind of folk hero.[/b] And check out these similarly-minded trad-cats at The Pipeline Their stated goals are: "Dedicated to Preserving ETHICS IN CLIMBING" And their philosophy: "...a group of INDIVIDUALS who believe that bolts should not be placed in the proximity of good gear. Climbing is both a mental and physical challenge. The rock should be respected and not desecrated for the sake of boosting one's ego. One thing that has been destructive to climbing is the promotion of the "climbing community" concept. This notion is intangible. Those who use it have verbally conscripted anyone owning climbing shoes to "the community" and claim to speak your behalf." Included therin is a Ken Nichols Commemorative Hall of Shame. Seems like Dishman deserves a trophy. Dwayner...do you see anywhere that i advocated bolts next to gear placements? My INDIVIDUAL opinion is that ken nichols is an ass...and he doesn't necessarily represent MY ethics

ok...on a serious note, retrobolting older routes w/o first ascent concurrence is bad form, bolt on holds also bad form, bolt-wars really really bad form... Why don't you meet w/ the actual guys doing the stuff, instead of Marty (he seems to just be reporting it via guidebook) and talk to them about them pulling their bolts off of your route? Why do this unilaterally?

wow...you are truly a man among boys!!! Good god the power of a crowbar...do you stroke it???? I got lots more stupid questions...here's one... what happens to your glorious ascents of old when you get the place shut down cuz of some stupid jihad? or here a more serious question... How do you psyche yourself up to rage on those beefy bolts? you watch the whole series of rocky flicks end-to-end, slam 6 redbulls, smoke some crack and JUST RAGE!?? Have fun spending $$$ on gas to go over there and rip a couple of bolts out...

who appointed you the overlord??

Hey dane...is your last name nichols? Maybe dane is a nickname and you really go by "Ken Nichols"...coming from the east coast, the bolt chopping bullshit is L A M E...and its a weak threat...i gather that you don't live in the area, so the bolts will most likely be back the minute you get in your car and drive home... deal w/ the rest of the climbing community? the way it sounds is that Marty, et. al have to deal w/ you? Why don't you seek out some sort of a consensus? You are being just as heavy handed as marty and his crew...the only real difference is you LEFT and they are still active in the area... bolt chopping wars suck...nobody wins...grow the fuck up...and FWIW, i think the route name writing and bolt on holds suck ass and shouldn't have been done...couple of chipped in holds?? BFD...you send the problem w/o them, then fill them in and strut around like a peacock in heat...otw quit your bitchin'.... Oh, and deleting opposing thoughts on a forum that you are running is WEAK... delete this

If you have more than one loop clipped, and you fall on the daisy and rip the stitched loops you are clipped to, you will be "outside" the main loop and will no longer be attached to the daisy...this renders your argument moot (who cares how strong the main loop is if you aren't clipped to it?)

in regards to the real question, there is decent cragging at Little Si only (don't bother w/ 38, its a choss heap)...WW1 at Si is good, just small and winds up w/ a lot of people concentrated in a small area...there is decent sport climbing and bouldering for the summer on weekends at squamish and all up and down that corridor (but you're crazy to clip bolts and boulder when the crack climbing is so good there)...and smith is a stupendous place for clipping bolts in the winter... Shoot me a pm sometime...maybe we can get out...

wow, Special...what a succinct answer to the WRONG question... Climbed a bunch w/ Jim Yoder in 1992 and then helped haul his busted ass out of smith cuz he was too stoned to walk and wound up slicing his ankle on a sidewalk of a trail...funny dude...