RuMR

all excellent climbing...

Read your email...not pm but email...

so what routes did you do???

"6. As for actually retro bolting at Dishman, Marty had nothing to do with it. I don't know for sure who did it, I have been told that a Grady fellow did it, but I have no first hand knowledge, only hearsay. But if I were still climbing there I would welcome the addition, even if it was grid bolted. I would not personally retro bolt the routes, because I don't think they warrant the effort or expense, I prefer steeper limestone. The retro bolter has just as much claim to the use of the rock as any other citizen. If he or she wishes to utilize the rock, and feels that additional bolts are required, then who are any of us to question, or worse yet threaten that person. The argument that the bolter has altered the precious rock is just as flawed. Climbers alter the rock they climb, just as hikers by definition make trails that alter the forest, climbers put up routes that alter the rock. Even the most sacred of Spokane climbing cows, the dihedral at Mini, even before the bolting was cleaned, climbed and worked into a route that was visible to the naked eye from the ground. " ummm...that is carrying the retrobolting argument too far...in general a bolt or two added here and there to eliminate ground fall potential in an urban area on an existing route, i have no problem with...the development of a sport crag i also have little problem with... i do have a problem with your logic though...it seems to me that you could easily apply these rules to someplace like, oh i don't know, something like OuterLimits or something along those lines...or bolt Supercrack...there has to be a limit to what you are proposing...i don't know how to define it, but i have a feeling most people have some common ground and will know the line when they see it...

You are a climbin' addict! Change your login to Addi-cted!!!

OMFG! That's some funny stuff!!!!!!!!!

nice what?

yah...fred rouhling...he's my definition of weak [insert dripping sarcasm gremlin here]

i don't even rate a ranking...

no dude...it means i suck ass...and you probably suck ass...and everybody here sux...

I feel like a large mouth bass w/ a hook hangin out of my lip...

hey petey...why don't you post some of your grand exploits??? or maybe i can snap some shots of you pitching off of the yellow v2 in the vertical world in your latest sexy getup and post those or better yet...STFU and don't open a fucking link from distel then your problem will be solved...pretty difficult concept, eh????

well phrased! But there are many that would argue that NO route is better than having to force a line...

i love his quote when asked why he hasn't been able to do another route of that difficulty...something to the effect of needing three things 1. Time and convenience to work the route 2. A particular style that suits you 3. I don't remember the third thing, but it was something about motivation/inclination

Discuss this article in the Forum Akira, 9b: Source - www.chez.com/charentescalade/ Akira, 9b - The World's Hardest Route!? When Chris Sharma after years (well…) of work, sent "Realization", 9a+, this past summer, American media instantly said what we expected them to say; "Sharma climbs the hardest route in the world!", but even though it’s quite possible that this is the truth, they seem to have forgotten about "Akira". Many of you, especially if you’re living in the US, might never have heard of this route, or of the man who opened it back in 1995. Akira, 9b, opened by Fred Rouhling, a 31 year-old sports teacher, can be found in a cave at Le Périgord, France. The route really consists of two parts, the first being a horizontal roof and the second slightly less steep. You don’t tie (that’d be clip in) in until you’ve past the first part of the route. It has been described as "an 8b+ (.14a) to an OK rest, followed by two 8A/B (V12/13) boulder problems, without rest between them, directly followed by an 8a (.13b)", or as "an 8c+ followed by an 8c". Fred worked it for three months before he could finally link it. Since it’s never been repeated, some of you might immediately dismiss it as over graded. In fact that’s exactly what happened as soon as Fred declared the 9b grade. People left and right said he was full of shit and semi-famous climbers from all over France tried the route, looking for a spectacular second ascent, trying to make a name for themselves. After the initial debate, things went quiet. Nobody was able to send, nobody was even remotely close… Before you dismiss the 9b/5.15b grade, there are a few things to take into consideration: There are at least two moves on this route that nobody has been able to repeat. Fred has opened two 9a’s as well. The first one, "Hugh", opened in 1993, got it’s first repeat as late as in November this year (2001). Alessandro "Jolly" Lamberti confirmed the grade. The other one, "L'autre côté du ciel", opened in 1997, has yet to see a second ascent. Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada tried it last year and they both confirmed the grade. Akira is completely natural, a thing that’s hardly true for his other creations. This means he hasn’t created a route suiting his own specific strengths. Fred Rouhling probably cruising Ebola 8A: Source So, how come Rouhling hasn’t received the attention he deserves? Well, there are, of course, many reasons, the main ones being: He’s French, but not from Paris or Provence, the two "climbing capitals" in France, playing a similar role to Sheffield in the UK. If you’re not part of the climbing in-crowd, you’re nothing and therefor not worth taking seriously. In fact Fred is something of a French equivalent to John Dunne, but then again, I guess he’s not that famous across the pond either… He’s a discrete guy, someone doing his own thing and not interested in being famous. When he gave Akira "9b", he didn’t do that in order to become a star, but because he genuinely believed the route to warrant that grade. In retrospect, it seems he was right… Next time, before you blow things out of proportion: check the facts. Sure, sending "Realization" was a great, even fantastic, achievement, but looks and charisma don’t change facts, remember that. Just cause Chris Sharma is a great climber, that doesn’t mean there aren’t other climbers, perhaps even greater than him…

that's what makes it soo fun...kindergarten all over again...

yer right...skiing will never compare to this: Limeystone jugz!!! and a PranaChicka as bonus!

skiing sux hairy ballz...

Man, Pete...you are a total fucking asshole...and the funny thing, when called out in public you deny being "specialed" Why you gotta rip a kid who's stoked on sumpin? Bitter? What gives???

Dru wins for more complete info....he was busy typing it up... shit holmes, you are a walking guide book... There's a bit of chimney action and some offwidth stuff on alaskan highway too...

what is tall skinny people and public image?

You're so silly Rudy. Doesn't matter which piece of the climbing game turns your crank, everyone is concerned about access and user impact, and secret projects come in all sizes. As Kix mentions, it's quite the balancing game: you don't want a bunch of people making a mess of things, but without enough traffic the moss will win. That said, it's my guess you'll actually need to promote the area some to get the traffic you need to keep things clean, so work on your access issues pro-actively. Just what is the NW boulderer population these days? Even with more information access I doubt you'd see anything remotely like the onslaught Bishop has endured. I guess first ascents of anything really don't mean much to me...i prefer the euro approach of open projects...especially on boulders... hurray for kix though...