RuMR

hey fuckbag...i'm not trolling...my point is that IF THE HOLES ARE MISALIGNED YOU CAN PLACE A CAM "PERFECTLY" AND IT IS STILL JUNK...as it is, they have blown their mfr-ing to the point that i think that is what happened... I'm with Dru on this...they have always struck me as junk out of someone's garage...at their initial start they were the only cams that were truly flexible up to their heads, but now they don't even have that going for them... Now, take my bait and chew, sucker...

you are totaly missing my point. and you know it. gear as we know it now was invented at a time when climbing was persued in a different way than it is today. I think that if you want to spend your day hang dogging on active pro then maybe you aught to engienier a kind of pro that is desinged to hand dog on. not pro that was designed in case of a fall... (not because you are going to fall on that crux 4 times before you can wire the move) I have seen a shodily placed yellow alien hold just fine. but that was one of very few falls that piece had ever seen, likely has seen to this day. how many falls had the piece that blew seen? you tell me? was it commen for this climber to push above his climbing limit and tork out so hard he had to place the pice and down climb to rest inorder to make the move through the crux? and if so perhaps he aught to spend more time climbing at his level. we all want pices to hold but the fact of the sport is it is fucking dangerouse. if it were safe it would be hocky think again Rumr you will see there is logic in what i am saying and it is not just muffy logic. we put gear in for the same reason most of us waare a seat belt or a helmet. just in case we fall it gives us better odds than nothing at all. most people do not put on a seat belt and think to them selves "well i have my seat belt on now i am going to ram my car into the next brick wall i see. I will be fine, i have my seat belt on." it gives us a chance to continue to live where otherwise we would have no hope. I have never ever read any garentee on any peice of gear anywehre that has said it will make climbing safe. that philosophy of yours will limit you...ie, you can't work something at your limit if you can't pound on the gear...that is great that you've seen a "shodily placed alien" hold...whatever, the point remains that if i place a piece that i deem to be able to hold a fall (whether its one, two or a hundred) the piece better hold or i got some serious issues with the design. An analogy is when i click my seatbelt in, i expect the seat belt to remain fastened. big duh there. and your thoughts about hang dogging and cams not going together is total bullshit...the guy who INVENTED the cams was one of the first doggers in the valley and his express purpose for inventing friends was to get on cracks that were cutting edge at the time (some still are pretty stiff) and he WORKED the shit out of those routes...you wanna argue some more? Or do you wanna go out and climb some choss pile that you KNOW you aren't gonna fall on and if maybe you do the gear "might" hold????? it must be great to operate in a world running on "muff logic"! it is you know Rumr i love to through shit out there because i learn new things when i state an oppinion. I still think that cams as they are today right now could be improved upon to meet the needs of climbers today. and i still think that you are an engeiner, if you want garenteees invent gear that can make them. until you do that, cams pop from time to time. hopefuly when it does happen you have other peices that will hold. if not you will meet the deck just like every other climber. i don't know a single climber how hasn't seen a perfectly placed cam walk, or change position between the time the leader placed it and the 2nd cleand.... becasue i follow almost exclusivly i think i have a different percpective. there are alot of reasons i don't like to lead and what i have stated here is a big reason. the sharp end is dangerous... even with great gear, perfect placement and knowledge of the climb. shit happens. as far as being limited because of my philosophy about climbing and my lack of 100% trust in the gear. ya you are probably right. If i were to push hard and hang dog every route and work climbes i bet i too could be working into .11 or maybe even .12's if i stopped eating too. but that isn't why i climb. don't get me wrong i hag dog and play on topropes realy offten and i think it is realy fun. i am in no way saying it is wrong to hang dog. i am saying i don't think falling on gear is 100% garenteed safe and i don't think you should expect it to be either. Oh Muff, what is the color of the sky in your world? Rose is my guess!

supposedly it was not flaring or shallow... face it, aliens are unreliable right now...

yepperz...and when they say it was an ok placement then it most likely was...

except that there is a DOCUMENTED run of aliens that had their axle holes misaligned... so yeah, while the design may be A-OK, the fabrication has suddenly (errr maybe not so) gone "bad"...

so what if it lost some serious holding power due to changed cam angles from a misaligned axle? Might that "disturb" you?

you are totaly missing my point. and you know it. gear as we know it now was invented at a time when climbing was persued in a different way than it is today. I think that if you want to spend your day hang dogging on active pro then maybe you aught to engienier a kind of pro that is desinged to hand dog on. not pro that was designed in case of a fall... (not because you are going to fall on that crux 4 times before you can wire the move) I have seen a shodily placed yellow alien hold just fine. but that was one of very few falls that piece had ever seen, likely has seen to this day. how many falls had the piece that blew seen? you tell me? was it commen for this climber to push above his climbing limit and tork out so hard he had to place the pice and down climb to rest inorder to make the move through the crux? and if so perhaps he aught to spend more time climbing at his level. we all want pices to hold but the fact of the sport is it is fucking dangerouse. if it were safe it would be hocky think again Rumr you will see there is logic in what i am saying and it is not just muffy logic. we put gear in for the same reason most of us waare a seat belt or a helmet. just in case we fall it gives us better odds than nothing at all. most people do not put on a seat belt and think to them selves "well i have my seat belt on now i am going to ram my car into the next brick wall i see. I will be fine, i have my seat belt on." it gives us a chance to continue to live where otherwise we would have no hope. I have never ever read any garentee on any peice of gear anywehre that has said it will make climbing safe. that philosophy of yours will limit you...ie, you can't work something at your limit if you can't pound on the gear...that is great that you've seen a "shodily placed alien" hold...whatever, the point remains that if i place a piece that i deem to be able to hold a fall (whether its one, two or a hundred) the piece better hold or i got some serious issues with the design. An analogy is when i click my seatbelt in, i expect the seat belt to remain fastened. big duh there. and your thoughts about hang dogging and cams not going together is total bullshit...the guy who INVENTED the cams was one of the first doggers in the valley and his express purpose for inventing friends was to get on cracks that were cutting edge at the time (some still are pretty stiff) and he WORKED the shit out of those routes...you wanna argue some more? Or do you wanna go out and climb some choss pile that you KNOW you aren't gonna fall on and if maybe you do the gear "might" hold????? it must be great to operate in a world running on "muff logic"!

I totally agree...one possibility is that CCH doesn't have the frickin' axle in the right place...

muffy, then why put gear in, why not solo? That is about the dumbest thing short of something flyingpig and his girlfriend kevboned would say... Personally, if i place something i expect the fucking thing to work...

looks like maybe user-error, but still weird, especially coupled with the recent paradise forx deal... aliens!

listen...i have limited tools to work with here...i'm doin' the best i can...sheesh...

according to her, she doesn't like you at all... yeah, i bet you hear "ha ha ha" everytime you walk down the street...

blah, blah is the sound that we all hear when RuMR post on this site. bah ha ha bah ha ha is the sound that RuMR hears when he's getting it on with his partner (also known as screwing a sheep). RuMR had a little lamb, little lamb, little lamb then he licked his hand again and had alittle moore. now that's funny. actually, I heard "ha ha ha ha" from your girl last night when we were discussing your little nutsack/unit...

Man, you are like a total whiz kid, aren't ya?

"bly by" is the sound flyingtool makes when kevboned is havin' his way with him (also known as thrunting)

dude...you have a five year old daughter and you crack a joke like this? WTF is the matter with you, you twisted fuck...

In the future, you should warn folks if you plan a Mounties-style siege of a narrow road with your minivan convoy. You know, post on cc.com, mountie's board, craigslist.... due dilligence. That's about 8 minutes of my life I'll never get back. whatever pox...you need to take a chill pill...

I'm more impressed that he could type with his ass in the air and when he's getting carpet burns on his forehead.

well...i was only behind that subaru at the very end and wasn't watching where steve was...I know that personally, i was averaging around 40 mph or higher most of the way until the very end and wound up tailgating that old guy until there was a turnaround to get by him...Did you see me in front of Steve? Prolly not... Steve was probably hanging waaaaaaaay back, in which case he should've let you pass... We had a good time but the huckleberries seemed to be a week out...

the laugher is that we were all within a couple of miles of the trailhead so getting your panties into a twist was completely pointless...

Listen, i blasted past that guy at the first opportunity I got, so explain to me how you should first pass me, then pass him????... Plus, regarding 4 i figured you'd passed my other buddy before you got behind mr. physics...so yeah, i can count...point being is that there were more cars in front of you that were not causing the problem and they were also looking to pass if given the opportunity... if you'd pulled that shit on me, i would stepped on the brakes for good measure...your lucky steve didn't cave your face in... And go figure, all along i thought pax meant "dumbass" in mandarin...

the problem was, there were four other cars stacked in front of you waiting to blast past the slow fucker in the subaru...so why exactly do you get dibs on blasting past them??? Get your ass out of bed earlier... Oh, and is Pax latin for Peace or Greek for dick?

go to rockclimbing.com...it was on the front page... this sux...

so, on another vein, a CCH orange alien failed resulting in a serious head injury at Paradise Forx recently...not a "dimpled" one either...

izzat similar to the sounds flyin'bacon makes when he's in kevbone's company?????