bobbyperu

i'm in b-ham right aboot now and am heading over to wa pass, anyone wanna rally and do some climbing this beautiful day...-bp

couple more tings, i've started this route diffrent ways each time and what i found is this... just left of center is best...also the 10 crack is wobbly at first its actually a wide crck with a big loose flake jammed inside forming a crack on each side. what i like to do is throw a stopper on the rightside and a cam on the left, and equalize, thus stabilizing the flake inside the crack in the event of peel, then the crack narrows and becomes super cool smooth hand jammin up and left with good exposure and steepness, to the aformentioned tree belay underneath the roof. this next pitch is definatly one of the better 5.8 pitches around and should not be missed. undercling wildly out right with the whole route below your ass, and reach up and around the flake and pull yourself up and over into a sweet splitter hand crack that soars up the final sheild. awesome! also i've always rapped directly down the route... worked good 4 me nd saves the b.s. dirt gully, just be creful you dont pull yore ropes into the rope eating headwall crack on the first rap. difinatly a cool root in a good setting, easy and quick to get to, and adventuresome climbing...-bp

charlie fowler is supa cu...

looking 4 anyone interested in doing some cragging wed-sun in the a.m.( i work intown around 5p.m.) up at the pass. i've found that folks can get a surprising amount done during the morning and early afternoon, so don't think i'm looking to do the beckey rt. or some mini shit, come ready to party- i'm down wit herb smoke, and drink at nite, so if this ain't youre cup of tea, i'd steer clear, that said if interested come by(or call) twisp river pub in the evenings and look for haggered looking lanky dude serving drinks and shit, or inquire with the lovely young hostesses as to my whereabouts...i gots a housesitting gig too so bivy issuses are nill... lemme kno...-bp (oh yeah and ask 4 kevin)

the bolts on tooth and claw provide much inspiration to not peel... some are good some spin somemay have been upgraded since the fa, they are placed at reasonable stances, amd not too run-out for bolted on lead hard slab climbs. really beautiful climbing on that root, and if u go take a camera... bella!-bp

do we know eachother? lets meet sometime face to face and you can tell me just how you feel. cause i really am tired of your shit talking, back it up old man. otherwise keep on hiding out behind your computer doin all your other hobbies. this is a CLIMBING WEBSITE.ie people who climb talk climbing here... then there fuckin idiots who don't climb and spay useless bullshit... go away pussy

slappy... turn away from computer... pick up phone... call me... we go climb... let the folks with all the useful info keep on with the useful info... and by the way slappys gots tons of info, just doesn't need to share it wit clowns who spend their days behind computers never even being able to imagine the truly fun things that people are actually out doin'... homeboy doesn't need to spray, homeboy needs to call me up... -bp

in my quest to reply to all things wa pass and probly subsequntly annoy all the fuckers sittin around computers on this lovely day before i head out to get some i wanted to say that this route is classic,and has some very cool variations which offer everything from 10+ fingers and hands at the top of the flake crack- head to the right under a steep section and head up the obvious crack to regain the route on the slab above, also the boving dubble roofs at the top of the 3rd are very cool 10b watch for rope drag, then some more crack climbing that put you out above the bear hug pitch... and the rowdiest of all the dolfin chimney, which heads out from the same spot, travers up and left under the boving roofs, and head up one of the most exilerating 10 chims you could imagine- bring solid technique for pro, and get psyched for the pull-out move exiting the chim this puts you up near the top and its cruzer to the summit from there. -bp

hey chucK there really is no trail that we follwed... just go up from the flat area a little bit, then bust right thru some trees headin towards the huge talus... i've been up there twice in the last month and never followed a trail per se... why hazn't anyone gone and done gato negro..? this route is awesome!!! wheres mr. i'm hard, and looking for BIG TOUGH ALPINE ROCK CLIMBS! what 10 pitches just too short... and only .10+, why bother right? just go to squamish and crag tuffy -bp

the upper offwidth is nice an exposed tho huh? did you guys do the e.face rt. lower pitches or the tooth and claw?

muy beuno... are yall talkin bout the first offwidth corner, with all the face features... the times i've done that rt. i think i just face climb around that wideness and up to where it gets easy... there is a small cam placement... and a #4 is the biggest peice i'd want to carry up there imo- bp

hooker..? yea i'm pretty slutty... i'll get it on wit anyone... lookin for a pimp... to get me some tricks for wa pass this weekend... johns? where you at? lovin arms was cool last afternoon tho right as i finished the 4th pitch the shit came down and by the time ken4 reached the belay we were drenched!.. jungle love sweet livin'

whattup kids... natty ice come out of retirement and get your fuggin crease out to the pass and lets clamber up some shit,yeuhh... fleb, i was there on sunday. theres some offwidth yup, and with the combo alot of other good stuff too... did you find the offwidth above the alcove to be thrashy, or were you able to use all the lovely little features around, and style it? well either way you get what you came for right? tons of good stuff around and more to be discoverd as well... -bp

see yall there this afternoon... yeeeeuuuhhh!

hey y'all... wanted hopefully to pump-up those seeking a somewhat long(800'), easily acsessed, clean, challenging, exposed and way scenic rock climb with a tru variety and quality in the heart of the wa pass scene. the east face of lexington tower delivers! yesturday a friend and i headed up for a climb bf work. we chose lexi cause my buddy had never been on that face and i hadn't yet checked out the "tooth and claw" route that i have been wanting to get on ever since i rapped down over it after climbing the e.face route. we decided we would start our climb on "tooth and claw" and bust out where the 2 routes converge and finish up on the amazing upper part of the e.face rt. this link-up gives the climber 3 pitches of beautiful slab/face, and 2-3 pitches of crazy fun crack climbing, linking togeter perfectly at the top of the third pitch( here one has 2 options for a 4th pitch as the 2 routes again meet up near the base of the 5th) we chose the e.face rt. so homeboy could do the classic step across below the big roof- to the cool flake and finger crack. wacky exposure. then you get the offwidth to chimney to hands to offwidth long exposed 5th pitch. then some easy shizz and up and over the s. shoulder and down blu lake trail to the highway and car.(fuck rapping the route, and carying 2 ropes). good shit... go checkit tru variety and somethin a little different-bp

david lynch rocks your dome... gotta love wild at heart... tru romance good too, and old skool made me laugh alot

you'll be fine goin lite... you can make it pretty easy, and i thought the funnest part that we did was the argo area... rock is typically cleaner on the southern side... the crest is pretty licheny... there are spots to bivy, its fun stuff and will work you... pretty too

well jarred, the s. face of argo looked to good to pass up, so we were definatly seeking out a little bit more difficult of climbing than we needed to do to get from one point to the other... also the tru crest provides much exposure(and much lichen) and some mid 5th ie; 5.7-5.9, the downclimbing will be challenging as well, or you could do the whole rapelling thing tho i hate rappin and would rather downclimb... the crest is most difficult from stuart over sherpa b/k there are less options... once to sherpa pass(east of sherpa) the south side is real easy the most difficulties being working around all the little trees and finding the quickest way to argo. once on the w. ridge area of argo things get real exposed directly on the crest, or you can head south down from the crest a little and its more mellow...once you see the s.face you caneither scramble down as we did to the base and climb any number of splitter crack systems up the golden face to the summit area( our line was somewhere around 5.9+) or climb easier up the western side near the crest to the summit, the climbing is continuosly cool along the eastern crest(5th) and we mostly traversed along the southern (cleaner) side. we did some n.side traversing near the end as we downclimbed off the ridge and down to check out all the cool lookin features in the basin below(s.) of colchuck... hope this info helps-bp

be sure to check out argos south face, its cooler than most other features along the way from sherpa to dragontail-imo... scope out the photo gallery for images from a traverse done earlier this season... many options for sleeping, also if trying to stay on the tru crest be prepared for much lichen on the north side, and steep, sometimes difficult route finding, as well as much up and down bizz, on the other hand the south side in this same section is more scrabling and hiking...also the traverse over colchuck and dragontail is kinda contrived, check out the many cool lookin features in the s. basin between these peaks... much rock, many cool 1-2 pitch routes to be scoped- have fun.. take photos-bp

ooo... oooo.... thump thump

personally... i wouldn't change a thing, great shot! doesn't need to be nuttin its not...imo, also much props to AG for steppin out on lead out girl!

will be in the area from today tru the weekend at least, and will be lookin for someone to hit it up wit on sunday... i got alot of ideas and am open to suggestions... formaldehed?, so i'll be away from computers so gimme a buzz if interested... tia-kevin 206 372 6208

yeah scott, you said it man, style matters, and what a stylie climb so i found your topo to be spot on... no need for 2 #4 cams, also i felt it was fine with pro to 4"... the gully is totally dry- and loose... doable but i'm sure as this route sees more ascents (which it should, cause it truly is one of the better climbs in the area) rap slings will appear. tricky left one at the hardest part, i'm sure it'd be better earlier with snow, tho its definatly a go, just be carefull y'all... and the finishing pillar crack system is sooo nice and the yosemite crux crack pitch is one of the better single pitches i've led in the area, if not anywhere in the mountains thanx again for all the info and stoke. and to all y'all lookin for a classic line in a powerfully scenic area, high up on great rock, go check this out... muy bueno- bp

right on alpine fox!!! i had a blast climbing with you, and lookin forward to hittin it up again soon... sounds like you had a good time adventuring around that beautiful area, such a good couple of days in the heavenly wapass scene tough life huh? heres to ya! -kevin

yeah... great discovery larry and scott, you guys rock!!! the style in which this climb was discovered is impeccable, and my hat goes off to these awesome guys- way to get out there and get after it those inclined to "go out and have a look" will find much adventure in this area . anyway uncle tricky again proved to be a great partner and took care of me with food, party favors and overall attitude,i had a blast brotha, , and no erik we didn't forget the lighter, summit session was wacky fun, then full-on descent, and back for party time in shazama, a great day thanx again, and muchos props to the first ascentionists- heres to ya and to tricky look forward to climbing with yalls- kevin