bobbyperu

lambone, thanx for sharing, i know for me to think back on cool climbs i've done or whant to do is a little more fun than reading a bunch of useless crap.. i'm stoked to do the complete n. ridge of stuart as well, and i heard of a couple of dudes who did the lower n. ridge to razorback ridge, that sounds a little diferent and pretty creative, anyway i hope posting that stuff brought you back to a place maybe a little better than the computers were all sitting at, that was the idea...

tex-buttplugger, good attittude! youre a fucking cop-out... why don't you just talk some shit, i know i'm trying to get with the program... problem is i like to talk climbing on a climbing site, if youre bored with talking about the same old shit, don't. simple. sk, good advice...

nelly check out la sportivas "trango s" all synthetic, lighter, perfect for cascades, just my 2 cents if you dig la sportivas

matt about your question earlier in regards to cbr, we left shoes and shit at the base because we came from sturt lk. trailhead, about the pla-toe idea, well you seem like the adventurous type, and i could definatly say there is a "connecting" crest to your desired locale, i say give er a go, even if you had to walk from the sausage fest, up hook creek, around dragontail, and back again, this climb would be worth it, imho, but as wyclef says; "when you roll into the carnival anything can happen, what what saywhat saywhat anything can happen" bp

cpt. uhh right on... yeah i guess you summed up what this original thread was all about. reliving good times in the mountains, i'm stoked to hear that you dont like to chestbeat, very admirable, and i hope you can see the conection some folks might have with favorite climbs, and best times in the mountains... well as it goes i'd love for anyone to talk about anything that makes them feel all warm and fuzzy inside, whatever the season, whatever the reason, especially if "its all for themselves" i personally don't climb for me most of the time, usually i'm with my mate and partner and thats what i'm all about, climbing makes for good set in our little movie, erik; that chimmney is pretty flaring ie: the farther back inside the tighter it is, theres also tha potential for wider more comfy stemming for folks like myself who are 6'+ and scared of the dark bp

erik, right on, sounds like wa.pass has you under its spell too... the dolfhin chimney is pretty rowdy, and not alot of gear or chockstones as the book says, some shit in the way back but its scary back there, the lipout of it has better pro and its a good thing... the boving roofs are a fun feature on that w.face of sews, sweet scw linkup, what three orbit, outerspace, and ?? simul-climbin or what... sounds fun, hope thinking about this shit fires you up a little more that the alternatives, i'm shakin up yo pauty, like lauty dotty, is he the dopest?, ya betta, ax sombody, snoop d-o double d

matt, the route on c.b.r. does have a mellow descent, scrambling minimal, my girlfriend and i wore rock shoes the whole way down to our packs below the face, i belive its the south side you come down good scree skiing in late season, then a hike with a little shwackiness back to the lake. i've heard the petit grepon is really cool and the passanger and indy routes at the pass are on the list, congrats on your ascents, did you find the passanger to be as sustained as burdo makes it out to be? i've rope soloed the first pitch and living in the area i'm totoally drawn to that s. side of sews, wonder if any of the crack systems farther west would go clean and possibly free, ie; midnite ride area, who knows? if youre thinking of doin the w.face on c.b.r go for it its really fun! and the .12 part is well protected and not very hard, i'm sure you'd have a blast, the quality of rock, the crazy lichen streaks all neon and shit, and the dihederal and roof pitches are some of the best we've ever climbed, looks good as of recent, was thinkin of headin into the area to make camp and try for some cool link-ups, anyway thanx for your post, and you must've been with kiemo, on vanishing point? any word on the descent route off minus fixed lines or are they still up? cheers bp

well as far as rock goes i'd have to say i really dig the east buttress of s. early winter spire at wa. pass, also makes a good link-up with the w.face on n.e.w.s for a 15 or so pitch day with little travel on s. arete between routes, and very little hiking. another favorite in another area is colchuck balanced rock w.face, really good rock, great exposure, fine position, etc, etc,. another good alpine link-up is the wine spire traverse: starty on e.side climb chablis via normale, s. face pernod, rap back down chablis, replenish water on glacier, climb regel yell, on chianti, the whole time in the sun, ahhh, then traverse around burgundy col, and finish on the n.w. route, be sure to climb the squeese chimney, then descend back to col. still in the sun, what do you got? bp

cpt. you need a rope for that? wow the folks on this site really get out... and are super stoked on climbing, or maybe just too modest to talk about things they've done and dug, or maybe like i thought just unmotivated and un-imaginative, well anyway lets all chat about useless shit like forest passes, people getting whacked, and where we can all get together and chugg, sweet!!

yep! dru i always knew you had it in you... all the info about everydamn thing, but how about and original idea... i'm hangin on you every post, really. oh and canada too you got to have some historical, or up to the second info on the next coolest thing or the most historical event in canadian moutaineering, bring it!

cause i'm a lame ass today, i've been scrolling through this shit and am kinda bored so i thought i might try and open up a can of worms... for those who dig on the alpine rock climbs in this state, a question; whats the overall coolest most continually classic line you've sent or wish to send? comeon chest beaters this is your chance let the cc.comers know how roudy you get! oh and i read aboot some link-ups in the alpine lakes area, cool, right on! thats interesting for sure. these climbs and link-ups are the way in this state. those with imagination will find limitless possibilities... who knows i am psyched to hear all your thoughts, and talk some shit too... something intersting, please! bored... (i know only boring people.. well i'm the biggest thing to hit big tuna since the twister of '86. and speaking of jack, one eyed jacks a yearning to go a peepin in a seafood store. bp

i think the route eric may have been thinking of is called freedom or death... between lib crac and thinny red, those of you who have done thin red recently may have noticed or used the shiny new bolts as afirst pitch, this continues above and gets progressivly harder. theres a 11d bolted face pitch, and another 11d being the undercling flake that traverses into liberty crack above the 4 th pitch. originally established by paul butler et all i believe, and sent by 2 brothers last summer. also of note a new route was established on the west side of silver star, all free in aday by 2 of the local guides.those interested in climbing something new with many 5.10 pitches in a spectacular setting might try and hit larry up for the topo, at mazama mountain guides, really cool folks to talk to. on a side note, anyone have any favorite link ups they've done in the area,wa. pass, and the wine spires are perfect for those climbers looking to link up classic routes, and climb all day! some personal favorites are the east butt on sews with the w. face on news, and the wine spires link-up, what do you got? bp

wow thanx first of all bronco for your reading suggestions, and overall positiveness! way to go... oh and since its at the bottom of your tick list, i should assume that these stories you told me to read psyched you out?.. people get hurt. how many folks have done this route and have a positive experience..? i'm was mostly interested in pertenant info, but it seems i've drawn up a sore spot for some people, oh well. i'm intersted in checking this climb out so i'll just have to go take a look see and realize that finding good info before hand is pretty hit or miss. danpat hope the wounds have healed for you, and thanx for sharing your opinion.

thanx all for the info; jacktors did you find much debris on the lower pitches below the pillar? i will take a look see myself but was just curious, and danpatsmith, so you had a good time on it then? cool, thanx for the info. also since you seem to know the scoop on things, hows the lower north ridge to girth pillar as a climb? worth it, or does the line just lose its alpine mixed flavor without the ice cliff...,seems to me like a intersting approach. any thoughts?..

was wondering if anyone has been on this feature since half of it fell off... or who knows when it ripped? interested in the lewis nelson rt specifically... any news is good news, thanx

lohtse, was out there on tuesday, and the way in from mtneer creek is straight forward, at the first switchback to stu lk head thru, cross creek, good size flow, find log. i stayed high through big talus(cairns), wound along till underneath sherpa glacier (water here) followed good snow up to toe of ridge. rock is dry down low. patches (water supply) higher... sherpa glacier in good shape. random question for anyone out there... anyone been on the girth pillar after half of it fell off??? looks kinda rowdy up there, was wondering if the nelson lewis line still exsists??

right-on, good to hear you scored good conditions, and had a good time. sounds as though the route has changed a bit from a month ago, and i'm sure alot different from your ski descent a few years ago. again congrats on a fun trip... hope those utah dudes are o.k.... its funny, after i posted a tr for this climb earlier, i recieved some pm's from some dude from utah, wonder if its the same dude? anyway 2 days from white river sounds like a nice pace. i remember being pretty hashed from the ipsut 2 day program. heres to ya!

right, on! was there much ice?

i was in the emmonds last weekend after an ascent of liberty ridge, and i being a snowboarder who likes to ride big mountain terrain imagined the conditions going down the emmonds to be unpleasant for riding due to the abundance of ice...i would not personally chose this route for a enjoyable descent, though it could be skied. just my two cents... have a blast! hope this helps?

we arrived at the ipsut/carbon river enterance to the park around midnite on 10th. early friday we set out from the parking lot and hit the mostly snow covered trail towards the carbon glacier. few tracks on the trail and after the suspenson bridge less. lots of snow along the moraine above mystic lake. upon reaching lower curtis ridge, the weather had been playing games with us, big thick cloud cover then ripping apart to giveus head-on veiws of the magnificent north face of ranier, and lib ridge jutting out proudly. we found our passage onto the carbon and roped up. there is alot of snow on this upper part of the glacier. navigation was intersting due to the sporadic weather, and the breaking of trail memorable... we found a direct path as the weather steadily improved. the position on the glacier here is spectacular... this is an amazing alpine cirque, with straight-on veiws into a big, rugged, landscape of snow, "rock", and ice. we headed up towards willis wall and found a snow/ice slope on the east side of the ridge between themogenesis, and the toe of lib ridge proper, we crossed a small shrund and climbed up wonderful sno/ice towards the crest. once on the crest we crossed to the west side and followed it directly up to thumb rock passing good snow and short mixed steps at thumb, we made camp under continued perfect skys and took in our position at this cool high camp. as the day faded away to nite the stars put on an amazing display under the moon-less sky. the sky eventually brightened and the sun caught us breaking camp. we headed out left and up perfect slopes of frozen snow and ice, thru a chute and towards the crest below the black pyramid. as we ascended ,the slopes became more icy with beautiful exposure and straight forward climbing. at the pyramid we headed up and left to the major ice face on the upper east side of the ridge, this face was wildly exposed and sustained, with absolutly gorgeous bubbly blue and grey alpine ice. this section continued along and above the pyamid towards the seracs at the top of the face. when the angle eased a bit we moved right and scoped a passage above thru the seracs to liberty cap. the climbing here was more of the same quality with steeper steps over and thru the ice cliffs. when the last of the steep was climbed we cruzed up more ice to liberty cap. on top we found the only wind so far on the climb and it was mellow, we headed along the northern edge of the plataeu to meet up with the emmonds glacier. we navigated thru the big yawners and down mostly icy slopes with occasional snow patches. once below stemboat prow we met up with the winthrop glacier and continued down under st. elmo pass, the conditions were more postholing the lower we got with occasional jumps and weaving to avoid the cracks... after reaching the lower margin of the winthrop, we headed west to make camp near a stream and forest below and east of mystic lake. we crashed and slept-in the following morning enjoying mild nite-time temps and bright stars. awaking again to perfect weather we broke camp and headed up and out to the lake, and up along to our trail at the moraines edge above the carbon. the area around the lake was spectacular, situated below dramatic cliffs, with full-on veiws of the climb, and the sweep of the eastern and northern aspects of this glacial-clad volcano. back at the terminus of the carbon, we encounterd more melted out conditions, and once over the bridge, a steady flow of mothers day hikers, asking if we had made it to the glacier?.. you could say that, i guess. this climb epitoizes the term "classic", and for those alpinists seeking a big, exposed ice climb in a incredibly powerfull position, in the heart of mt. raniers north face, look no further, cause liberty ridge delivers! and for full value do it "off the couch", with two screws, and dull tools...oops... sans sousie! thanx, mike gauthier for the condition reports, enthusiasm, and stoke along the way!!

sam, was up teanaway riv rd. last sat. got to within 6 mi. of trail head. road was mostly only patchysnow from what i could see. we bailed to the mtneer creek trailhead, so thats all the info i got... hope it helps... happy skiing.

we were up a mtneer creek last sunday... no sno to the trailhead. little bit of snow, was frozen at 6 a.m. till the bridge at 2 miles, more snow, still frozen, till the colchuck lake trail-branch. snow through the big talus and throughout the forest hillside one hikes to the lake was frozen good in the a.m. with minimal punch through. good coverage still making for a rapid ascent to the lake. more snow, not a wholelot though around the lake, lake frozen, colchuck glacier, asgaard pass good snow coverage. was snowing a bit, with lots of wind. snow was still o.k. on the hike out. super beautiful area right now... not alot of folks either. didn't go to stuart lk. soon... hope this gives some info

timl, definatly take your bud with you on the sno crick wall,plenty of goods spots to smoke on route. no worrys about the descent or the route being dry, last sunday we did "space is the place" a.k.a. outer space, and it was a blast!i has forgotten how cool those upper pitches are! carefull on top though, the big goat almost rushed my brother for his piss... also check for chiggers, all three of us got hit. tweezers?

goatboy... i imagine youre getting stoked to be leaving the palouse for your summer stint in the valley, and if your inqueries lead you up to the spires you wont be disapointed... as for chablis, the regular route is super fun. and a good compliment i've found is to do the south face of pernod directly from the notch between these two spires. this combo gives you a really cool jaunt up chablis on mostly mid fifth with occasional harder if you so desire, to a cool exposed little summit. then follow ramps around to the north to the notch and continue in one pitch directly up the south face on pernod (.9) really cool climbing... right to the base of the 12' summit block. 2 original bolts( read: beckeys challenge of the cascades,) old and pulling out, will set you on a crazy little summit in the heart of one of the coolest spots around! from there call it a good day, or continue, and link the "rebel yell" on chianti, and the n. face of burgundy, for an even better day linking the wine spire group! a worthwhile link-up in a magical area... see ya around shazama. kevin

as of last sunday outerspace was the place... dry, sunny, only one other party, well worth headin up to. everything else on the wall looked good too, the descent was snow free and dry. some dead fall on the way up after crossing sno creek, but otherwise a great place to spend the day. all three of got ticks too, so bring up your Hearts 24 hour collars and you'll be set. enjoy