bobbyperu

erik, sorry to hear about your friend... hope he pulls through and has a speedy recovery, our thoughts are with him. bp

forrest, again to everyone out there i have not done this route. i will not do this route. i have been told by folks that i respect to not do this route. but forrest may have a point, it very well may be the coolest thing up there, go find out ya'll, but remember keep those gems a secret! bp

nelly, first off sorry to be dropping mad replys and shit i just have some thoughts on this area, the main reason i took these guys advice had alot to do with what burdo says in that book... lula and myself checked out his route "rampage" on paisano pinnacle a few years back, lured by the pics in the book and the route description, we were surprised with his descriptions, and found that he and we, have pretty different ideas of whats rad and whats not, i won't waste time and go into details but that climb had like one good pitch and the hard stuff was definatly hard and dirty, and not what was described in the book... in general on routes he's established in the mountains the only one i've found to be right on is the first few pitches of clean break on vasiliki ridge, but then again i haven't done the passanger yet and i hear its great!... bp

erik, yeah well it seems strange, about that east side being shitty, but what abiut the south east side, when i was up in that couloir between the spires a few years back the rock along the right side looked pretty rad and kinda steep, when i was there i was climbing snow and shit, but many times of checkin this side out from the east butt on sews, if noticed what looks to be cool features up the south and south-east corner, hmmm... the gully is free of snow now and who knows maybe theres a line to be found on that side... i've heard of none, you? also i'm sure you've checked out that rad steep north face of sews while being on news, and while youre rapping off, that route that starts right below the overhanging chockstone looked cool, if we weren't headed to a show in seattle last nite it would've been fun to hop on, have you done it or anything on that side? no of any info? oh well i seem to not be able to get that place out my dome, naw mean? bp

i have not done the route, and after living in the area for several years, the line has obviously caught my attention. last year we were gonna check it out, and it turned out that my boss at the time, geoff childs, and another local guide had headed up for the same reasons of having done most of the other lines in the area and were looking for somethin new... the burdo book does make the climb sound cool, but before we left to do it i was strongly discouraged from doing it. these two guys have amassed alot of time in the area and climbed everything from stellar to total choss, and they referred to it as one of their least favorites," i wouldn't recommend it to my worst enemy" was how one put it... and frankly if youre comin over for one climb, there are sooo many other choice lines to do. i won't try to dissuade you, as they did me, but just wanted to pass this info along from some sources that know the area. also i was just there yesturday and the bugs are full- on!!! so come prepared, and have fun and an adventure if you do that route,oh and have fun if you try and descend back to your car on the hair-pin side... body armor would be good. again not trying to psyche you out, just trying help out? bp

wow!

dan thanx for the info... i knew someone would eventually respond to my queries on such a cool looking route, glad to hear you had a good time on it, do you remember if it took 3-4" gear or what? how many etc. i know i sound like a little bitch trying to ask about pro and how much of what to bring but these are sizes that i typically dont double up so borrowing more if need be would be a consideration, anyway i'll probably heft more than less when we go, also yeah the nw corner rocks did it the first time a week ago, in the late afternoon,early evening and it was gorgous in the sun, after living in the area for three years i was kicking myself for not gettin on it sooner, in any event was a fun discovery, and beats the hell out of the standard routes in that area, i too was thinking the linking posibilities with those climbs, more like finishing a towers in a day climb over on that aspect being it gets the last rays of the day. anyway muchos gracias hermano, for the info, and your thoughts. bp

after an absolutly perfect day climbing at the town wall, lula and i decided take that little road right from the parkinglot and cruize mellow style back to town, cool road by the way, anyway we missed our usual stop at zekes for meat to eat, and freaks to meet, so i remembered a little story mr. natural had told me about he and his pops getting destroyed on some giant fuckin burger at this spot we always drive past on hiway 2 the"mountain veiw diner". natural and me are somewhat of burger affacianatos, miners in yakima pretty much set the benchmark for pure size, and a meal there including a double big miner, fries and shake almost took the life of our completly blasted baked friend a few clicks back, vomiting was induced and luckily he made it... anyway natural told me of a sasquatch burger that put it to shame... i never really considered that possible and wrote it off to meat deficiency induced paranoia, i was wrong. when we got there i scanned the menu for some sort of sasquatch thing, and found the bigfoot burger, huge burger huge bun 2 cheeses, all the fixins, etc. etc. at $8.00 i knew we were talkin somethin serious. i order the thing lula gets a classic and we wait in eager anticipation for this best to show its ugly face... the waitress comes are way and shes litterally tipping to the side under the strain in her left arm, oh fuck, what have i done? a bead of sweat rolls down my cheek as a smirk pops on her face. lula sees it first and exclaims looudly: holy shit!!! followed by laughter, i catch my glimpse and am truly humbeled, not even the steeps of index, can step to the intimidation i now feel, looking face to face at the biggest goddamn burger i've ever seen. long story short, the bigfoot burger will kill you! for those who eat for sport though, this is pretty full-on. i'm recuperating nicely and thinking about a nice big cup a black coffee, or better yet a vivache latte enema, yeah checkit next time youre on that state sponsored highway of death, you'll soon realize what they mean cheers bp

hey all you washington pass climbers... couple of questions on some routes i've been thinking of checkin out, and not found too much first hand knowledge on. first off i walked underneath the serpentine crack route on the west face of liberty bell, on a recent trip and this thing looks pretty rowdy, i've heard from a mazama local that it was " twice as hard as the headwall crack on chianti spire", i've read anywhere from 10+ to 11+... i know difficulty is all realitive between differnt folks, and i found the chianti pitch to be straight forward, this on the other hand looks like way steep fists or rattly fists through a corner and roofy bit on the first pitch, then a cool looking coner system, i will check-it soon but just curious what anyone else has found...pro on the wide pitch? 3-4x?. also was on cutthroat the other day and was intersted in any info on the 1976 choinard,bard,? route on the east face, i know right where the burdo line goes, but again, am interested if anyone has any info on these lines... also, fuck what burdo says about east face of lexington in his cascades rock guide, that route is rad! full-on 5.9 on good rock, the wide pitch has a bolt off the belay, and is steep offwidth, into a tight chimmney, then a cool move and a good cam lead into more exposed offwidthy fun, check it out! great position, and a fun morning route, goes well with e.face of minute man... soooo much goods!!!! thanx for any info, and share your thoughts. bp

yo goat, cool trip report, and very informative. sounds like you had a sweet trip, in a powerfuly scenic area, with favorable conditions. right on! well i have a question for you; did you take a gander at cloudcap peak while you were in the area, the east, n.e. aspect specifically, much snow on the rock? how about jagged ridge, much snow, and cornices? we will be heading that direction soon to try for a traverse from ruth to shuksan via, icy peak, cloudcap, jagged ridge, and on to shuksan. just psyched to hear your report on what you found, and stoked to get out there for some of that nooksack ambience... thanx in advance for any feedback and info. bp

looks like fun! nice pics... cool site.

lambone, thanx for sharing, i know for me to think back on cool climbs i've done or whant to do is a little more fun than reading a bunch of useless crap.. i'm stoked to do the complete n. ridge of stuart as well, and i heard of a couple of dudes who did the lower n. ridge to razorback ridge, that sounds a little diferent and pretty creative, anyway i hope posting that stuff brought you back to a place maybe a little better than the computers were all sitting at, that was the idea...

tex-buttplugger, good attittude! youre a fucking cop-out... why don't you just talk some shit, i know i'm trying to get with the program... problem is i like to talk climbing on a climbing site, if youre bored with talking about the same old shit, don't. simple. sk, good advice...

nelly check out la sportivas "trango s" all synthetic, lighter, perfect for cascades, just my 2 cents if you dig la sportivas

matt about your question earlier in regards to cbr, we left shoes and shit at the base because we came from sturt lk. trailhead, about the pla-toe idea, well you seem like the adventurous type, and i could definatly say there is a "connecting" crest to your desired locale, i say give er a go, even if you had to walk from the sausage fest, up hook creek, around dragontail, and back again, this climb would be worth it, imho, but as wyclef says; "when you roll into the carnival anything can happen, what what saywhat saywhat anything can happen" bp

cpt. uhh right on... yeah i guess you summed up what this original thread was all about. reliving good times in the mountains, i'm stoked to hear that you dont like to chestbeat, very admirable, and i hope you can see the conection some folks might have with favorite climbs, and best times in the mountains... well as it goes i'd love for anyone to talk about anything that makes them feel all warm and fuzzy inside, whatever the season, whatever the reason, especially if "its all for themselves" i personally don't climb for me most of the time, usually i'm with my mate and partner and thats what i'm all about, climbing makes for good set in our little movie, erik; that chimmney is pretty flaring ie: the farther back inside the tighter it is, theres also tha potential for wider more comfy stemming for folks like myself who are 6'+ and scared of the dark bp

erik, right on, sounds like wa.pass has you under its spell too... the dolfhin chimney is pretty rowdy, and not alot of gear or chockstones as the book says, some shit in the way back but its scary back there, the lipout of it has better pro and its a good thing... the boving roofs are a fun feature on that w.face of sews, sweet scw linkup, what three orbit, outerspace, and ?? simul-climbin or what... sounds fun, hope thinking about this shit fires you up a little more that the alternatives, i'm shakin up yo pauty, like lauty dotty, is he the dopest?, ya betta, ax sombody, snoop d-o double d

matt, the route on c.b.r. does have a mellow descent, scrambling minimal, my girlfriend and i wore rock shoes the whole way down to our packs below the face, i belive its the south side you come down good scree skiing in late season, then a hike with a little shwackiness back to the lake. i've heard the petit grepon is really cool and the passanger and indy routes at the pass are on the list, congrats on your ascents, did you find the passanger to be as sustained as burdo makes it out to be? i've rope soloed the first pitch and living in the area i'm totoally drawn to that s. side of sews, wonder if any of the crack systems farther west would go clean and possibly free, ie; midnite ride area, who knows? if youre thinking of doin the w.face on c.b.r go for it its really fun! and the .12 part is well protected and not very hard, i'm sure you'd have a blast, the quality of rock, the crazy lichen streaks all neon and shit, and the dihederal and roof pitches are some of the best we've ever climbed, looks good as of recent, was thinkin of headin into the area to make camp and try for some cool link-ups, anyway thanx for your post, and you must've been with kiemo, on vanishing point? any word on the descent route off minus fixed lines or are they still up? cheers bp

well as far as rock goes i'd have to say i really dig the east buttress of s. early winter spire at wa. pass, also makes a good link-up with the w.face on n.e.w.s for a 15 or so pitch day with little travel on s. arete between routes, and very little hiking. another favorite in another area is colchuck balanced rock w.face, really good rock, great exposure, fine position, etc, etc,. another good alpine link-up is the wine spire traverse: starty on e.side climb chablis via normale, s. face pernod, rap back down chablis, replenish water on glacier, climb regel yell, on chianti, the whole time in the sun, ahhh, then traverse around burgundy col, and finish on the n.w. route, be sure to climb the squeese chimney, then descend back to col. still in the sun, what do you got? bp

cpt. you need a rope for that? wow the folks on this site really get out... and are super stoked on climbing, or maybe just too modest to talk about things they've done and dug, or maybe like i thought just unmotivated and un-imaginative, well anyway lets all chat about useless shit like forest passes, people getting whacked, and where we can all get together and chugg, sweet!!

yep! dru i always knew you had it in you... all the info about everydamn thing, but how about and original idea... i'm hangin on you every post, really. oh and canada too you got to have some historical, or up to the second info on the next coolest thing or the most historical event in canadian moutaineering, bring it!

cause i'm a lame ass today, i've been scrolling through this shit and am kinda bored so i thought i might try and open up a can of worms... for those who dig on the alpine rock climbs in this state, a question; whats the overall coolest most continually classic line you've sent or wish to send? comeon chest beaters this is your chance let the cc.comers know how roudy you get! oh and i read aboot some link-ups in the alpine lakes area, cool, right on! thats interesting for sure. these climbs and link-ups are the way in this state. those with imagination will find limitless possibilities... who knows i am psyched to hear all your thoughts, and talk some shit too... something intersting, please! bored... (i know only boring people.. well i'm the biggest thing to hit big tuna since the twister of '86. and speaking of jack, one eyed jacks a yearning to go a peepin in a seafood store. bp

i think the route eric may have been thinking of is called freedom or death... between lib crac and thinny red, those of you who have done thin red recently may have noticed or used the shiny new bolts as afirst pitch, this continues above and gets progressivly harder. theres a 11d bolted face pitch, and another 11d being the undercling flake that traverses into liberty crack above the 4 th pitch. originally established by paul butler et all i believe, and sent by 2 brothers last summer. also of note a new route was established on the west side of silver star, all free in aday by 2 of the local guides.those interested in climbing something new with many 5.10 pitches in a spectacular setting might try and hit larry up for the topo, at mazama mountain guides, really cool folks to talk to. on a side note, anyone have any favorite link ups they've done in the area,wa. pass, and the wine spires are perfect for those climbers looking to link up classic routes, and climb all day! some personal favorites are the east butt on sews with the w. face on news, and the wine spires link-up, what do you got? bp

wow thanx first of all bronco for your reading suggestions, and overall positiveness! way to go... oh and since its at the bottom of your tick list, i should assume that these stories you told me to read psyched you out?.. people get hurt. how many folks have done this route and have a positive experience..? i'm was mostly interested in pertenant info, but it seems i've drawn up a sore spot for some people, oh well. i'm intersted in checking this climb out so i'll just have to go take a look see and realize that finding good info before hand is pretty hit or miss. danpat hope the wounds have healed for you, and thanx for sharing your opinion.

thanx all for the info; jacktors did you find much debris on the lower pitches below the pillar? i will take a look see myself but was just curious, and danpatsmith, so you had a good time on it then? cool, thanx for the info. also since you seem to know the scoop on things, hows the lower north ridge to girth pillar as a climb? worth it, or does the line just lose its alpine mixed flavor without the ice cliff...,seems to me like a intersting approach. any thoughts?..