
bobbyperu
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Everything posted by bobbyperu
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border issues...tho no sweat, squamish and the chehalis is coo' but so's the pass, or enchantmnts, ja'kno..? come up lets clamber up some chunks... :grlaf
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wapass till tuesday...i gonna be out there soling around on things and looking for folks to potentially rope up with for some shoit...lemme know soon or look for the dood cruzing around the spires and say hey...
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now i see what you wanna do, you want o walk in rock shoes from the base of the s. arete to the base of the e. butt..? well i've never done or considered that... because the terrain around the base of the se face is pretty varried and has a bit of looseness, but its not all that bad, head along the base of the wall until it drops off above the small crag thats in front of the face, downclimb past the start of passanger route, then along the face still passing the start of that bolted line, past inferno route, and keep heading towards the toe of the butt. ive gone the reverse before and it didn't take too long. specialed and lunger i belive approached this way as i saw their tracks, but then again this was with sno...so.... and they were skiing down after sending the butt..! rad!!!!
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fuck! now i feel like an idiot for at least not pretending to steal your shit, just to see what you would do ? well youre a big dood, but i aint scurred! see ya on another descent route someday have fun out there
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Post deleted by bobbyperu
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supa-fun!!!! oh yeah for all interested the eastbutt is in really good shape...dry as can be, great snow all the way from the hairpin to the base of the route, and as ben described perfect afternoon snow for the glissade down to the car. our original intention was to do a bit of enchainin' of spires that day, but freezing temps, sno flurries, and the satifaction with doing the best positioned route at the pass (IMO) had us on our way to b-ham... we had a hard time resisting the temptation to "borrow" the at gear sitting at the base of the s. arete, belonging to the fellow tied in and belaying his leader as he sewed up the first "pitch" on the arete... fuckin karma, woulda' been a blast tho to rip down spire gulley, all in all tho the glissading was ill, and we were giggling the entire way down good times! oh and ifin yer eva up 542 east stop at the alpenglow farms for pie for sure... the marion/ rasberry, or tayberry pies will give you a stomach orgasm, and then of course on youre way back west a stop at the northfork brewery is pretty much mandatory, the ipa will rock your dome!!!! and the pizza pretty damn good too oh yeah the snag butt is hard to beat for sunset action! lovely!!!! eerie pretty cool sometimes, espesially when yer heading up after everyones already finished for the day great weekend ben!!!! thanx bro
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yes so skuzzy and myself decided that on the heels of his 10 hr. work day, and my 2 hr. psudeo wrk/ hangout day we should run around town while everyones onthe roads trying to get home... a pit stop to retrive essential safty items, and we were out to index. along the way we executed the elusive, yet suprisingly simple moving driver change. with seats fully reclined the passenger scoots all the way into the back more or less and the driver wiggles on over holding the wheel, left foot still in the vicinty of the pedals. then when the seat is clear the new driver slides down into position-viola . aaannnyywayy we arrive at the lot with danimal to find a plethora of vehicles at 7:30 on thursday nite thats cool, get yours!!!! so after a quick strroll along the base of LT wall we saw lots of folks gettin theres on the classics... kept goin to where the wall brightens up and away from the scene and low and behold thin fingies is free...whatta pitch!!!! sooo clean soo steep, and plumb! we partyed on the thing and seshed at the top... we haung for a little bit as it started getting dark. as we were walking out in the blackness we stopped to discuss waht to climb next, danimal took off for home after a long day fighting to preserve some sweet land we decided on breakfast of champs from the dirt would be a fun way to enjoy the superb index town wall nightlife ie: noone around, cool, and exposed. clibing at nite with headlamps is fuckin rad! its cool how the beam of light plays perfectly with the way focus is concentrated while sending... your world is the jams in front of you, your gear and those things below you become a feeling of security that requires no more scrutiny, and the void and exposure is now more an inner sensation than a visual stimulation. the light beaming down to place feet, when they're good a flash up the wall to see whats next then punchit up, flash down move feet, and up.... good stuff!!! that pitch is sweet, long and way steep then a perfect ledge to enjoy the evening ambience...then huge sesh and off on one of the LTs best raps...
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[TR] Argonaut Peak- Jason's Esophagus (NE Couloir/Gully) 5/2/2004
bobbyperu replied to klenke's topic in Alpine Lakes
the rock on the s. face is where its at -
cool chuck, so you and patrick did east face of lexi... sweet route! and cool to see folks skiing up on frisco, thats another fun one...
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cool...yup skiings always fun tho i'm interested in hearing who if anyone combined the 2 to accomplish what i consider cool at the pass this time of year...climbing shit and skiing down...maybe i sjould just have said cooler(imo)...?
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blah blah blah skiing whatever...who climed rock at the pass this weekend...? what was sent, who had a good time..? skiings cool when u use it as a means to descend after you climb somethin cool...this woeks espesially well at the pass this time of year lets hear it
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good skiing in those coolers...how dry are the rock routes at thepass?
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climbing booty just can't step tho ... but -pretty much the best thing out!-hands down to gettin' some!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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i broke my shit(fib) snowboarding in mid december, crutched around for a bit, then got in the boot, walked alot and on my feet most of the day, didn't do a whole lotta rehab, as soon as possible i was in shoes with an air cast, this wasn't really all that neesssary, then just took it easy climbing, went snowboarding a bunch in the last couple weeks...and have been climbing below what i'm used to, but its also early season, and i haven't been too active in months...feels good, not 100%, but when i'm really trying hard, i don't notice. and on the ground after i can feel it but definatly able to get up stuff..my 2cents
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fuggin' great man!
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lemme know when youre availiab;e homes...i'm finished with work tomorrow... its on!
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north, the deal with Gato Negro is its "overhyped" like Layton says ,...but if youre looking for 10 pitches of alpine granite in an amazing setting with classic pitches thru-out. then this routes got it! the crux pitch is way classic, and the rock quality is good. the approach if doing the route in a day, can seem long, but not carrying bivi gear, and putting your head down will see you to the base faster than you think. the climb itself has like 4 .10 pitches (the crux is .10+) and a bunch of classic hand cracks. all natural. and the final crack thru the summit needle is way exposed! the descent is full-on, but just be heads up... there are 2 short abbs of the summit to the gully then at least one other set of anchors as of the our second ascent , or theres always just downclimbing... this route delivers a pretty real deal alpine feel for this area, and is as good as anything else around! IMO
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yuuup...thats what i'm talkin about! natty were on fer next week aaiight...i'm gonna be done on tuesday i tink...we'll be in touch
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i'm gonna have a completly open sched' after the 15th of this month, and will be on hammertime...i gots some mini trips in the works but will be on a constant prowl for partners for audacious, as well as casual outings here in the state, and elsewhere... if you find yourselves looking for partners for whatevs lemme know, i'll be down! -kevin i have no phone after my jobby job ends, this may change, but PMs are good
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rocks!!!!, my most satisfying score, climbing related that is, occured not on the soloin' adventures i referred to in the beggining of this thread, but rather while doing the second ascent of gato negro on silver star, on the crux pitch right in the buisness, there was a little wire that appeared fixed, but i knew the fa had no falls, sooo while i found a little rest i finagled the peice out, and replaced it a little bit higher, in a perfect spot, clipped it and finished the pitch, my second came up and cleaned, and it was cool, scored a new wire that belonged to a hero of mine! i could totally see how someone could leave a difficult peice in situ, rather than hafta hang and somewhat tarnish the style of ascent by freeing it. i have the upmost respect for the guys that established this route! great style, and a truly awesome alpine rock climb! go do this! i can't spray enough -k ps if anyone wants to do this i'd be down to climb it again... also i wanna do an enchain of somethin on the east side: ie rebel yell, clean break, and this route someday...whos down?
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makes sense... i felt real safe with my gal...she went to franklin and shit , and i like to sleep next to my ice axe sometimes as well...they can fuckin bring it! heres a quote for the day: "i don't fuckin' wrestle chicks, i straight beat bitches up" -Coral mtv just kills me sometimes
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me and my lady used to bivi at the tiny skate park, by the place with the showers...we just parked the car in the lit lot, and walked on over to a little grassy soft area beyond the skate park...very quite, conveinent, and safe feeling...get creative!
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yea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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cool thanx for the pm's i'm all set...i'll be on this same sched' till the 15th soooo.... lemme know yo...-bp