iain

jon will appreciate this one:

it sounds miserable if that is what it is. one pebble will ruin you!

seems kinda like that "Summit" magazine from a few years back.

it in fact promotes spray.

careful dudes, it's probably someone on this site in the pic. but then again there is no CH-47 or cellphone in the picture so probably not.

Sad news at http://www.395.com/ (audio report, realplayer) -Iain

Free horsecock yum! "That, no doubt, was all I had; but at least that certainty was something I could get my teeth into..." -Meursault , L'Etranger

yes but I recommend a steel rescue NFPA rated CMC locker for that task.

classic, I knew that would happen, oh well it's another opportunity for shudder to think to make a stage appearance.

Apparently, the intense vibration in a fall can cause a momentary opening of a gate, which greatly reduces the strength of the carabiner (< 50%, usually). If the carabiner is loaded at this time, problems may result. This could also be caused by a strike against a hard object.

Wonder how many people here got the full ski descent down Helens prior to 1980? Probably a number of you.

yep, I cowered under my desk, even down in portland. I'm sure folks here had more drama than I though.

judging by some of the links in the dihedrals I say tons of people lower on them, but I would think most consider that uncool. there's a bunch of new people climbing there who would be freaked by changing over to rap while hanging on the bolts. but then they have to at least know how to rethread the rope....

quote: Originally posted by fern: Hotwire Questions and Answers by Chris Harmston That dude is the biggest internet geek, even more than us! He's everywhere. for the better I might add, thanks for ze link.

that's a dinker! name the event: webicorder

dunno, but if gapers like us keep posting to it it will.

nah dude, mtn rescue gets choppered around everywhere, no one does any work if JP4 isn't involved . Didn't you see The Lambone Incident™ ? autoblock or no autoblock, whatever works for ya.

"Killing an Arab" is also a central theme to L'Etranger.

quote: Originally posted by Roger: Major literary bonus points to anyone who can identify the author and name of the story that inspired the song.... Albert Camus, L'Etranger.

autoblocks suck on double rope rappels. too much weight. just get a grip and let er rip.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Isn't threading the rope directly through webbing a commonly regarded no-no? I don't see any problem with it if you are just doing a single rappel. It also spares you the task of threading the rope through a ring (you can just tie the webbing over the midpoint). I've done it plenty of times. It's those stupid punks who lower in that setup who get themselves killed. Anyone disagree w/ me? [ 08-09-2002, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: iain ]

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: strandss weren't threaded thru the biner that the ATC was attached to, but thru a different biner on my harness. WTF? Just through another on a belay loop or something? Haven't had the opportunity to mess up too much, but we did double-rope rappel off a pillar in the Melville Group, Selkirks. Both ropes were damp, and we fed the rope directly through a webbing anchor. Pulling the rope was impossible from the combination of rope stretch, webbing stretch, and dampness, and we had another rappel and unknown terrain to get out of a gulley. We ended up rigging a 3:1 to pull the line, after several desperate attempts to get the thing down. bring rap rings or junk biners for the long wet rappels I guess.

wouldn't hurt to give the line a good soaking and see if your prusiks don't slip on a z-drag (or whatever you use) and do some quick ascending too. you guys and your 30m ropes

You know you're in the USA when someone has to cogitate between an array of way-over-priced mattresses. Pretty soon they will make crashpads for specific climbing areas, specific problems, specific beanie hat types, etc. etc. Bouldering itself is cool. The bouldering scene, however , I think is hilarious .

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Ugh, the '80s ... where's the "puking guts out" emoticon ..?