iain

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: i will try to e-mail my cell # how 21st century of you I will print out the email and put it in the paper shredder so that no one else gets it.

as for the page top thing, isn't that a requirement for acceptance on this board?

I thought my only contribution to this fun thread, chastising a spelling error like some school marm priss, was only in keeping with the tone and tedium of the thread.

"It's clearly a budget. It's got a lot of numbers in it." Nice avatar gregm!

hmm nice to see some freshiez on TOP of santiam pass

an obvious and juvenile TOP

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: (FYI: Womens Suffrage=Womens right to vote Right to vote) Why should women get to vote twice Spanker?

"There ought to limits to freedom" -Texas State House 5/99

"This is Preservation Month. I appreciate preservation. It's what you do when you run for president. You gotta preserve." ...when speaking about Perserverance Month in New Hampshire

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Did anyone give you grief for NOT having a cell phone? As I recall, if you don't have a cell phone on Mt. Hood you are (at least theoretically) required to have MLU's. The only time the issue was publicly raised was in Accidents in N.A. Mountaineering (incorrectly labeled as "Fall on Rock"). The VHF radio proved very valuable for helping organize the rescue effort and guiding in the helicopter, but this was only after the resources were on-scene. A cellphone would have been much more appropriate, and we were planning to bring one, but it was left behind at Timberline. We could have been prosecuted under the revised statute since we did not have cellphone/MLU but one would have to prove gross negligence. I don't consider the MLU very valuable unless you are a first-time out-of-towner heading out in a sketchy forecast. Since it became a military operation, any charges were quite unlikely. There was the usual crap in the Oregonian, as after every Mt. Hood incident with a Blackhawk photo and a big "WHO PAYS" nearby. The point was not raised that both of us carried AAC rescue insurance.

If you are deciding between Telemark and AT, that's a pretty tough call. There is nothing more beautiful than a skilled telemarker in action. However, I tend to ski AT since I had some downhill background, I like to be able to ski in climbing boots, AT gear gets lighter every year, and some would argue it requires less comparable skill to handle really steep stuff. Enjoy. -Iain

There used to be considerable differences between AT skis (synonymous with randonee), telemark skis, and alpine skis. These days there is little difference between skis on the market, and many can be used for all three disciplines. Alpine skis generally need a big boot to drive them and favor performance over weight. For those moving from the resort to the backcountry, this might be a good option with some AT bindings. If you've never learned to ski before, perhaps telemark would be a better option. Tele and AT specific skis tend to be much lighter and really pay off on long approaches or tours. The difference between Tele and AT skis is really quite blurry now though, but skis which are marketed for AT tend to have a beefy construction to handle the stress of hard cuts that parallel turns can produce.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Just because...... how about a response from the spelling police?

Good point Steve. I've been reading too and would rather not chalk it up to voodoo. It would be nice to know which of those slings was the culprit. Crazy stuff has happened, like those guys who tried to rap off an abalakov but accidently fed the rope through the long tail of the knot, which was frozen in the ice...

Just an aside, but if anyone is interested in mountain rescue and lives remotely near Corvallis, Oregon, I'd like to invite you to one of the unit meetings for Corvallis Mountain Rescue, one of several MRA units in Oregon. I would like to see some new faces who are both interested in climbing and helping out other climbers. Send me an email if interested. Climbing experience, is of course, appreciated. -Iain

yeah I agree, I've found lots of gauze and dressings are some of the most important things to have. Pretty much all I carry. Those orange seattle marine vinylove freezer gloves are killer for mountain medical stuff, as they are totally sealed and warm, and close to disposable afterwards. It is a pain at a bloody scene where your mitts soak up all the blood because you can't get nitrile over your insulation.

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Iain, I remember that story when it happened. I remember thinking, "holy crap, those guy's got lucky, I need to get me a couple a talkabouts. Yeah it got a lot of publicity. Got an article in People magazine and was on NBC nightly news. Insane! All of it would have been mitigated if we had a cell phone.

I've heard sandstone is dangerous to climb after rains due to its porosity making placements sketchy at times. Urban myth? I've never climbed on it after rains.

the main issues I have come across w/ the wire bail is when using a boot that has a very worn sole, leaving only a thin bit of rubber up front to keep the thing on. I've not had it fail, but it's been a bit dodgy at times. I have had a partner have major problems with the wire bail on a rainier climb a few years back. We ended up encasing her foot w/ duct tape to keep it on. That said, I have had zero issues on many different boots w/ the wires. I'm not married to them though, I've heard great things about the grivel system of abs plastic up front.

I have used the Charlet S12's w/ a wire bail in the front with zero problems for the past 5 years on leather boots, plastics and at's. I have climbed vertical to slightly overhanging alpine ice with them w/o difficulties, though they are marketed for lower-angle stuff. There is no flex if you use a solid shank boot. I highly recommend these crampons, or others like them (Sabertooth wire bail has a slightly more aggressive front 4, so should work even better on steep stuff). They're the only crampons I own, and unless you are doing a lot of extreme waterice (and that's not so common for all but the most dedicated ice climbers in the PNW) I don't see the need for the "new-wave" stuff out there (bionics, etc.) which weigh quite a bit.

mmm...looks like fun!

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: 3. Canadian accents get annoying after 15 minute Try being hut-bound with a pack of 'em for a week or so! oh it's really snowin' now eh? time for some big rock eh? iain you're going to do some more shoveling eh? just kidding canadians are way cool (at least the ones I know).

quote: Originally posted by AA: Anyone have any stories of being in a situation like this and what you did? A partner and I were shelled by a big rock avalanche from Yocum Ridge on a traverse on the Sandy Headwall on Mt. Hood a few years back. My partner got a tv set in the pelvis and I was hit in the helmet hard several times and beat up my hand which was shielding my face. I could see that my partner was bleeding profusely as he had some light-colored pants on and it was spreading over his leg. He was still conscious and moving so we both just ran for it to get to lower ground and below the Sandy G. bergschrund (which had swallowed some of our gear in the rockfall). We got to just below an ice fall on the right when my partner pretty much collapsed and said he was going to throw up. Shortly after that he said he was going unconcious and wanted to help me use his VHF radio to get some help before he did so. This led to some increased stress on my part. Since he was in bad shape and we were still under an active ice fall I laid out a tarp and dragged him down the glacier to an area where it looked like a helicopter could land and that was free of rockfall. This was fairly exhausting and I could only use one hand as my other has damaged by rocks. My partner was shivering uncontrollably at this point (it was very hot on the glacier) so I tried to treat for shock but I was not sure if he had serious adominal injuries (potential life threat) or merely a superficial break at or near the pelvis (not quite so bad). He had a big gash at the iliac crest which refused to stop bleeding w/o constant direct pressure. I placed a dressing on it and yanked his belt up over the gash and cinched it down as tight as possible. His VHF was not helpful, so a Motorola Talkabout was tried. We actually got ahold of some kids in McMinnville playing in their yard (~80 miles away), they got their dad on the radio, and we relayed instructions to the county sheriff via the dad. We were picked up by the air force and dropped off in Portland (which was the craziest part, hanging out in downtown portland at 1600 in full glacier setup after hanging out on the Sandy Headwall since 0730). Anyways, it really pays to have the training, but as you can see it really was not used much apart from controlling bleeding, treating for shock, and realizing when you need help getting out. Nothing the WFA doesn't cover. Could've been a lot worse though, we both consider ourselves lucky to be alive.

Finally! FRIDAY...SHOWERS... SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET... PASS WINDS SOUTHWEST 15 TO 25 MPH. FRIDAY NIGHT...SHOWERS... SNOW LEVEL 4500 FEET... PASS WINDS SOUTHWEST 15 TO 25 MPH. SATURDAY...RAIN AT TIMES... SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET... PASS WINDS SOUTHWEST 15 TO 25 MPH. SATURDAY NIGHT AND SUNDAY...RAIN AT TIMES... SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET BREEZY. VETERANS DAY AND TUESDAY...RAINY AND BREEZY AT TIMES... SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET. WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY...RAIN LIKELY... SNOW LEVEL 6000 FEET

I was hoping to avoid seeing that puppy porn again. Both of 'em