Inspired by the previous cc.com crew heading to the DKHW, a friend and I set out Friday at 3:00am to climb Devil's Kitchen 1c (in oregon high) hoping the recent storm had filled in the bare spots that kept the previous group out. We went over to the gulley and found too much bare rock at the start, so we went back left and made up a route through a bunch of gulleys to gain "1c" again just above the bare spots. Below is a picture shred took on his trip, and I modified it w/o his permission, sorry Pat hope that's okay.
The gulley variation we used took really good screws, good solid water ice, but unfortunately this was at constrictions were crap rained down on us as pro was placed and cleaned. Otherwise we used pickets. We had to traverse far right above as the sun was hitting the pinnacles above, knocking down large chunks of rime on the main line. This put us up on a pinnacle looking down on the upper parts of Wy'East. It took a fairly sketchy unprotected traverse on loose cobbles and slush/mud to get down onto snow. The traverse over to this cobbley stuff was on mashed potatoes with some stimulating exposure. The summit was windless and calm. The start of 1c variation would be very nice indeed if iced up. Will head back to try some other variations up there, but we need some more snow and it needs to cool down! Was up on some avalanche training the rest of the weekend and it's like May up there! The frick'n bergschrund is back.