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Everything posted by iain
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There have been fatalities and very-near-fatalities associated with falling out of Leuthold Couloir, like almost any popular route at this angle. There was also a multiple-fatality avalanche in the couloir years ago.
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Thanks Marc, no problem. It's easy for me to sit on the sidelines and say stuff after the fact. It seems to happen a lot on this site after accidents, unfortunately. Hope you are doing well.
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why are you stopping the debate? This has the makings for classic cc.com uninformed debate material. A multi-page manifesto about how long you would survive in a theoretical 6ft^3 cube
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Just making it clear that the pathogen vs saving life comment I made in the other thread is simply to illustrate how rarely CPR works, rather than to say how frequently you will catch a disease. I would not hesitate to initiate CPR if it was warranted, but I would do some thinking if a mask and gloves are not available. Also, I think it is inappropriate for people to be describing the injuries this fellow received in unnecessary (and perhaps even unauthorized) detail.
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Are you saying you shouldn't bother with gloves and a mask? I'm not sure what you are trying to say, other than insulting me. That's great. Did he fall off a cliff with massive trauma as well? My above quote is simply what my medical advisor has advised me, that in ideal conditions in his ER, CPR has a terrible track record of bringing people back. The odds are more likely you will contract a pathogen than you will do any good, the exceptions being lightning or drowning victims. Do what you want, but I'd rather not be called naive since I have put some time and thought into this. And I would perform CPR if I felt it might help, but there is such a thing as obvious fatal injury.
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Pretty sure any female lurkers on this site that were thinking of posting are long gone now.
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The old chute is almost always a better ski, but seems to see a lot of sloughing as things heat up. There's more space to work with, and no one seems to climb over there.
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A pocket mask and gloves are nice in the glove box of your car, and the keychain keeps protection available other times. If you are getting advanced CPR training, you are the most likely candidate for having to act in an emergency. It would really suck to have to worry about disease if someone collapses at a mall in front of you.
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The Canadian Pacific Railway faced great difficulties laying tracks through the treacherous mountains to join the Pacific Coast with Eastern Canada. Thanks to the surveying work of Major A.B. Rogers, a pass was discovered near the headwaters of the Illecillwaet River.
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Yeah! I miss those days coming back soggy and stinking of campfires after a weekend in the Cascades with my pvc rain slicker and cheapo way-to-cold bi-mart sleeping bag. loved every minute of it and learned a TON
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If it concerns you, you can get these, they're pretty cool:
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I tried a friend's set of quarks (I've used BD black prophets for the past few years) and it was like a different sport. almost felt like cheating! I will be sticking with my prophets for financial reasons though.
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that is Karate Crack, a 10a trad hand crack which hangs a right into a cave. Doing the top part w/o bolts would be a sickening experience. There could be 6 bolts but I wouldn't know cause I wouldn't touch the thing myself.
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Crystal mountain gets a D over at that skiareacitizens.com website.
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I saw some kids get busted at meadows one time. It was not pretty and they take it damn seriously.
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took your sweet time. you are wasting valuable spray time climbing it seems.
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first, that's not me. second, tele these days is for those pudgy gearheads over on telemarktips.com who seem to afford new planks every 2 weeks. third, I won't disgrace a perfectly good TR with sweet Smith climbing with talk of tele.
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ha your image isn't working but I checked it and it looks like what Distel called the "approach" to crossfire. Come-on Distel give it some credit
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Yo Distel check this shit out: I'll let you try a sample, but the rest will cost you a fair price. I'm your pusher.
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I'm just messing with ya. I'm all for moving quickly but I do put a good eye on things before I hang my life on them you know. I just think about Randal Grandstaff each time I set up a rappel. You can't get much more solid than that guy and he got the chop because he prob. overlooked something in his setup.
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LOL true dat!!!!! this from the man who climbed the nose in what??? 15 hours. that is good for tex each of us have to manage our own risk and climb with people with a similure risk level. I seem to recall seeing some pictures from Yocum Ridge of some climbers APPROACHING the first gendarme in BROAD DAYLIGHT fast-n-light fast-n-light fast-n-light. you can be safe and fast. It takes 2 seconds to throw a half-fish in a rap rope. Not that I do it every time but it's not like it takes up a whole day doing it.
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that brick down the vent stack is a great idea!
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Yeah, something to think about. Not that most people would be able to stand there and do nothing.
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Unfortunately, like learning to drive, the initial sheer terror of leaning out over the edge of a precipice hanging off a string of plastic dulls with repetition.